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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Perfboard? - 11 years ago
Used for raw materiel or used for the laser? The raw material is pretty common stuff.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Perfboard? - 11 years ago
The real question is weather you want the fiberglass version or not....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Is this due to Z wobble? - 11 years ago
On a normal Maker Farm I3 the Z rods are free to move at the top. They are mounted to the motors with flexable plastic tube. That allows the Z rods to move if they are not straight. Since they move rather than bind or flex they stay reasonably correct for driving the carrage. If you have the rods hitting the frame at the top, or mount them with solid blocks then you will have issues unless the roby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Laser Cut Mendel - 11 years ago
All of the kit guys optimize their designs on a month to month basis. A list from three months ago would not match what they are shipping today. The solution they all seem to use is to simply not put out a list. They also may do it to keep people from using the list to shop elsewhere.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Setting Motor Currents - 11 years ago
I believe you have two motors on the Z and one motor on the X and Y. The two Z motors are commonly driven off of a single driver. The motors wire up in paralell on most machines (series has some issues). You need twice the current to run a pair of Z motors as you do to run a single X or Y motor. There are enough variations on this that it may or may not fit your situation. First step is to plugby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
The printer world started out mostly running PLA. The J-Head is tuned / designed / optimized for PLA temps (185 or so). The whole ABS has only gone from "wild and crazy" to "easy" fairly reciently. The J-Head can indeed do ABS, but melting them is part of what made ABS a crazy thing. The all metal (or almost all metal) hot ends are one of the things that's made ABS more easy. The gotcha is thatby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Perfboard? - 11 years ago
For the fiberglass variety try: Twin Industries perf at Mouser Not exactly cheap and you have to look at the metric dimensions rather than the US ones.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Justifying Printer Purchase - 11 years ago
To be useful, you need to be able to "drive" the printer. Downloading stuff other people have done is pretty limited. If you can't generate CAD files the printer will wind up gathering dust. If you are not already familiar with CAD, you are also committing to learning how to use a fairly complex piece of software. Before you buy the printer, It's not an impossible task, high school kids learn itby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: same file same printer but different print on windows or linux - 11 years ago
It sounds like you have some background tasks going on in the Windows machine. Outlook checking mail, Office printing, and Windows updates are common background problems. The only variable is the rate at which the computer can feed data to the printer. That's enough to mess things up. The other possibility is that the difference is not related to the computer but is due to something else. Wornby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Opposite Home direction. - 11 years ago
For some odd cartesian reason, your only two rational choices for home positions. You either get back right or front left. Back left and front right are both "negative Z". Both of the standard positions are supported in firmware. To do the other two you would have to play with some code.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
With a J-Head, I would start out with PLA. It's mighty close to it's limits printing ABS. There are a lot of pictures of "I melted my J-Head printing ABS...". There's no such thing as perfect temperature control. If you have a draft in the room, things can easily wander 5 (or possibly 10) degrees. Depending on the fan position my hot end can wander +/- 3C just siting there. Another thing to makby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: hot end for 3.1. Help? - 11 years ago
flatfoot Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi I am a newbee to the foram.I have a rapman 3.1 > and had a blocked hot head.Cleared it by drilling > it out with a .4mm drill bit.Problem is I am > getting a temp fault making me think that a wire > was damaged in the moving around to clear it. Is > there a replacement head that will fit.Other wise >by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 Frame - 11 years ago
If you watch the Maker Farm web site they go from "1-2 day ship" to "7-10 day ship" over the course of a month of so. I think their laser is working full time just keeping up with kit orders.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: kit - 11 years ago
I would consider the level of support you will get along with the price of the kit. There's a lot of threads here that start with "I can't get this working and I've got no information to go on ....". I can vouch for Maker Farm as having *excellent* support. There are others who also do a good job.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: RAMPS 1.4 board issues and I have no technical competence - 11 years ago
There is an "optional" 1N400x diode on the Ramps that hooks up power to the Mega. If the diode is missing / broke / in backwards you will have no power to your Mega board.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: gettings started with electronics, stepper motor issue - 11 years ago
If you dig into the data sheet on the chip used in the stepper modules, you set the current limit to 1/0.7 of the current you want. For a 1A motor you set the limit to 1.4A. It splits current between the two windings. I'd check your power supply if that's what's in common between the two setups.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Dual Z axis motors Problem.HELP!!! - 11 years ago
Going back to the first post. A 2.5 A motor is not what you want with the normal stepper drivers. Running a pair of them would take 5A (you don't want to run them in series...). Most of these drivers are doing well if they put out 1.5 amps.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
Ideally you would like to glue the thermistor in place with something that will take the heat. As you have discovered, a thermistor coming loose is a bad thing. Kapton tape is the second choice if you don't happen to have high temperature adhesives in stock. You can buy a new body for the J-Head. They aren't terribly expensive. You can also bite the bullet and go with one of the all metal hot eby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Best 3d Printer Design? - 11 years ago
Just to be sure - are your thread rods lubricated as well? They are probably the most important thing to lube. The other thing to do is a general run through tightening all the bolts. Past that, a finger poke here or there will often tell you what's vibrating. The clips on my glass can make a lot of noise if they aren't quite right....by uncle_bob - General
Re: Perfboard? - 11 years ago
Old school perfboard was phenolic or fiberglass / epoxy depending on how much you spent. I suspect there was a bakelite / Garolite version before that. More or less, any plastic "stuff" with holes in it is perfboard.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: First print - 11 years ago
One of those magic surprises in all this: The print temperatures are set in the gcode file. The temps in Pronterface only apply when you are not printing. At least that's the way it works for me...by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: HELP! - First build Pre-Flight test CRASH - 11 years ago
One easy (and embarasing) way to get this sort of thing to happen: Wire the power connector on the Ramps as +,+, -,- rather than +,-,+,-. Another way to do it is to get the -12 V supply onto one of the Ramps inputs. If you pull off the stepper modules, there is not much on the Ramps other than capacitors. If it still acts shorted, you may have blown a cap. It's possible the cap was in the boarby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Another newb with connection problems - 11 years ago
Here's what *should* happen: Click "watch temp" and you should get someting around 20 to 30C for your bed and hot end temps. If you do, you are talking to the board. If you get a bunch of errors then yes indeed you don't really have comunication. If you get some crazy negative temp, your thermistor(s) are wired wrong (open maybe). If you get a > 300C reading they are shorted. Past that, yes,by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: heat bed problems - 11 years ago
If your temperature reading is -14 C, either you are in a *very* cold room, or your thermistor is wired wrong. I'd fix that before you go any further. It's also possible that you have a thermistor setting in your .h file that's not correct for your thermistor. Since they mostly are 100K parts, a .h setting for a 4.7K resistor with a 1K resistor on your Ramps board is the most likey error.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: RAMPS 1.4 board issues and I have no technical competence - 11 years ago
^^ what he said. Why - either your Ramps board is shorted, or you have someting plugged into it wrong. Best guess would be the limit switches, but that's not the only possablilty. I would start from scratch, assuming the guy who sold you the stuff didn't know what he was doing. Confirm every wire and every connection one at a time. If that means cutting wire ties to follow things, (carefully) cuby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i2 or i3? - 11 years ago
Sourcing parts from here and there can save you money. If you haven't done this before, getting the *right* parts can be a real pain. You don't really know (yet) what you are looking at. You also can find a *lot* of threads around here starting out "I bought a bunch of parts and can't get them to work...". A kit with good support (Maker Farm is one, there are many others) is worth a *lot* when itby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: PCB Heat Bed Resitance - 11 years ago
Actually the solution is to use a board with rolled copper for the surfaces. That way you can contorl the thickness much better than with a plating process. If you go into the doc's on the heated bed layout it's pretty specific about this. About the only real solution for a high resistance bed is to feed it a higher voltage. What ever gets you into the 120 to 150W range the "right" voltage forby uncle_bob - Developers
Re: Prusa v3: extending y-axis - 11 years ago
The I3 is already weakest in the Y axis. You can easily confirm this by simply picking up the front of one and watching everything move. If you simply extend the Y, you will make that problem worse. I'd plan on making the axis stronger / stiffer if you decide to extend it. The heated bed chews powere to warm up. Double it's size and you double the power it uses. Right now it's running 12A at 12by uncle_bob - Developers
Re: print quality, help needed - 11 years ago
Printed parts are not going to be perfect. That's even more true without fine tuning things. Matching your brand of filament to your extruder / hot end is one form of tuning. Getting the gcode to match the dynamics of your motors is another. The first thing to do is to compare your parts to the printed parts on the extruder. There are certainly plenty of "odd bits" on the ones I have. If you seby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
I know this is a little late, but there are "name brand" J-Heads and "knock off" versions. People have reported issues with some of the ones from odd sources.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics