Did you try send G28 to the printer? That should home all your axis.by gmh39 - General Mendel Topics
Very nice! How successful were you in integrating the motors into the corners of the Mondrian? I noticed some pictures (either on the Wiki or your Flickr) where the motors were integrated in the corners, but can't find the STL anywhere.by gmh39 - FoldaRap
Something being Open Source has nothing to do with the retail cost. Open Source is simply that; the product's source and plans are open for anyone to use. Plus on top of the material cost, like stantor said, there are overhead expenses, labor, etc. All that goes into the cost of the product, along with profit margin.by gmh39 - General
Can you post a picture of what you are talking about? If you are using Slic3r, you can try increasing the number of solid top layers. I find that, especially with very sparse infill (<20%) the first solid top layer tends to sag into the infill and is not completely flat. I typically run 2 solid top layers for this exact reason.by gmh39 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuoteuGen I disagree about the new Makerbots. With the old (up to Replicator 2X) ones, it was possible to easily hang filament spools on the printer, fix stuff yourself (exchange extruder, nozzle etc) and so on, but the latest generation is very closed for several reasons: - spool mount is proprietary. You cannot (easily) use non-Makerbot spools on the printer as they are now stored internally inby gmh39 - General
Is it the same EXACT layer every time? It might be something in your axis or something getting in the way at that specific point.by gmh39 - Printing
I know this is a Reprap forum and all, but if they just want to print, and not have too many problems, I would suggest one of the new Makerbots. They have a large format one, but not 100% sure on the dimensions. I use a replicator 2x all the time and work and the only thing I have to do mantainence wise is the occasional bed leveling. Im sure with a little tweaking you can get the Makerbots toby gmh39 - General
You can also turn the heated bed off after the first layer (or at least turn it down). Another thing you can try is angling your fan down towards the print so it hits both the nozzle and the print.by gmh39 - General Mendel Topics
First, what are you printing with, PLA or ABS? Hotend - sounds like you either need to make sure your nozzle is on tight, or you need to tune your PID. What are you temps set at? Do you have a way to measure the hotend temperature so you can get a reference to see if the software is reading accurately? Bed - probably needs to be leveled. Try loosening the leveling screws most of the way, theby gmh39 - General Mendel Topics
QuoteOhmarinus A2, you are kidding about investments in standardizing components right? That would halt the development! No, not necessarily. I think what he is referring to is simple things like the dimensions of a hotend groove mount, or the type of connectors used on a board. Little things that every component of a category has that interacts with another component.by gmh39 - General
Yea that definitely sounds like a PID issue. It sounds like you are WAY overshooting your target temperature.by gmh39 - Delta Machines
Quotevreihen Quotegmh39 That's awesome! I would totally buy that. I wonder how he prints the CF, since typically it needs to be soaked with some kind of epoxy then vacuum sealed. In mass production settings, carbon fiber comes in "prepreg" weave, where the manufacturer soaks the material in a special epoxy formulation that doesn't harden until heated in an autoclave (under vacuum) per a specifby gmh39 - General
That's awesome! I would totally buy that. I wonder how he prints the CF, since typically it needs to be soaked with some kind of epoxy then vacuum sealed.by gmh39 - General
QuoteOhmarinus Quotegmh39 Just found this place: AluFab. Good prices and reasonable shipping. Interesting, but ehh, reasonable shipping to 'where'? I can imagine it's different for each country. I guess I should have stated, Im in NYC area. $15 shipping, not terrible. Anyone know typical shipping rate for Misumi (US)? Im trying to compare prices, but can't find the cost of shipping anywherby gmh39 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Just found this place: AluFab. Good prices and reasonable shipping.by gmh39 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
If that detached string is the bottom layer, it looks like you are still having problems with sticking. Try cleaning the bed off with rubbing alcohol if its PLA, or using ABS juice for ABS. Btw, sweet username. I love Dr. Who.by gmh39 - General Mendel Topics
I believe there is a setting in repetier (I assume that is what you are using), to switch your print area to circular/delta.by gmh39 - Delta Machines
Are you putting any kind of lining on the inside? What is the operating temperature range?by gmh39 - General
Quotecdru Quotelazzymonk Silly me. Should not reply to forum posts while half asleep. I re read and realised what your trying to do. You want G4 Dwell.That may be good if you need a short period for something. But having the extruder stay fully heated for an hour and a half may results in oozing, or if nothing else, cooking the filament. Plus, what was the original purpose of needing the pauseby gmh39 - General
Has anyone tried using this high heat spray paint for lining a 3D printed mold? I want to print a mold for a part that will eventually get injection molded, but the plastic I want to make the part out of has a mold temp of ~450 C. Would it be possible to print the mold, line the interior with the high heat paint, then pour the mold with molten plastic?by gmh39 - Casting and Moldmaking Working Group
Quotelazzymonk Silly me. Should not reply to forum posts while half asleep. I re read and realised what your trying to do. You want G4 Dwell. From the wiki QuoteWikiG4: Dwell Example: G4 P200 In this case sit still doing nothing for 200 milliseconds. During delays the state of the machine (for example the temperatures of its extruders) will still be preserved and controlled. so if you wereby gmh39 - General
Is there a G-code command that pauses the print? I know you can use the "pause" button in Repetier, but I would like to be able to slice and run my code when I wake up, pause for the time that I am away at work and my GF is still sleeping, then resume once she is awake. Basically an 1-1.5 hour pause at the beginning of the g-code (before anything heats up).by gmh39 - General
I am not an firmware expert, but I think the firmware has different thermistor temperature curves logged in it. So in order to get the correct curve you would need to uncomment the correct curve that corresponds to the thermistor you are using. The PID (Proportional, Integral, Derivative) controller is the feedback controller that the firmware uses to regulate the temperature to the temperatureby gmh39 - General
I think what most people do is have a spare piece of glass so they can easily and quickly change out the glass and run the next print. For detaching the print, I have heard of people putting their surface in the freezer for a few minutes.by gmh39 - General
You can use mrmetric.com for hardware. Dont buy a chinese knock-off hotend. Get the real thing. Get 90lb Spectra fishing line. Buy endstops and sockets, etc. from either mouser or digikey. It's cheaper. PS. If you are in the US I can print you the parts for cheaper. Just send me a PM.by gmh39 - General
Quotebrendanjerwin Alright, I'm at a bit of a lose here. I'm trying to get the delta radius set but things just aren't making sense. With these settings (I know, horrible things done to the smooth rod offset): // Center-to-center distance of the holes in the diagonal push rods. #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 200.0 // mm | 200 mm as built // Horizontal offset from middle of printer to smooth rodby gmh39 - Delta Machines
ABS or PLA? If it is PLA you might want to try turning your fan up/on.by gmh39 - Printing
I figured it out. I that to turn on the "Extra Length on Restart" setting for the retraction. Now it is print out great and I am back to calibrating.by gmh39 - Printing
So a I am trying to calibrate my Printrbot and I am at the point of calibrating the scale (make sure everything comes out the correct dimensions). I am using the 0.4 thin wall cube (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52946). But every time I print it out I get weird none filling on one of the walls. Also, when I measure the other 3 walls, they are all different thicknesses (they get incrementallby gmh39 - Printing
I had this problem earlier this week. I ended up upgrading to the latest Slic3r (1.0 I think). Seemed to solve the issue. Also, check to make sure your belts are tight.by gmh39 - Printing