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Re: Z-axis moves correctly, but prints come out at half height - 10 years ago

QuoteKidAircrash QuoteAbuMaia Another possibility is you have 4000 steps per mm for the Z axis, yet you have your layer height set at 0.32mm. Those numbers might not be playing nicely with each other. What would you recommend I change to? I'm using an e3d v6 hot end similar to you. What are your firmware/slicer settings? I have a 0.4mm nozzle on my e3d, so I have 0.2mm layers set in slic3r. M

Re: Z-axis moves correctly, but prints come out at half height - 10 years ago

Another possibility is you have 4000 steps per mm for the Z axis, yet you have your layer height set at 0.32mm. Those numbers might not be playing nicely with each other.

Re: Prusa i3 how to glue the thermistor on the heatbed - 10 years ago

Nope, no paste. Just the thermistor taped to the bottom of the heatbed with kapton tape. On the bottom, not on the glass side, you don't want to squish the thermistor between the heatbed and the glass, you may break it.

Re: Prusa i3 how to glue the thermistor on the heatbed - 10 years ago

Same here. Tape it down with a few strips of kapton tape.

Re: Definite wiring issue - 10 years ago

QuoteeriknThe stepper only came with 4 wires connected to them and I identified the pairs by jumping two wires and feeling which one made the motor harder to turn. After figuring out the pairs I wired them so that the pairs were side by side. Why did you do this? I'm not sure how the RAMPS motor pins are set up, but I have a feeling this may be part of the issue. I plugged my motors into the RAM

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I went to Radio Shack and purchased a computer power cord, three pronged, and cut off the end that usually goes into the computer power supply. I then wired it up to the 12v 30a supply for my printer.

Re: Use an Opto stop to pause print when filament runs out? - 10 years ago

I just did a test. Instead of void pause() { enquecommand("M600"); enquecommand("G4 P0"); enquecommand("G4 P0"); enquecommand("G4 P0"); } I rearranged the commands to be void pause() { enquecommand("G4 P0"); enquecommand("G4 P0"); enquecommand("G4 P0"); enquecommand("M600"); } It seems to work to prevent the command being sent four times. At least, when I tested it with my printer cold and no

Re: Assembly instructions for Prusa i3 - 10 years ago

QuoteDom22Any kit you buy will require tinkering, and lots of learning. Don't expect a set of IKEA assembly instructions. Tell that to Colin of MakerFarm. He not only provides PDF assembly instructions, but also videos of himself assembling the printer.

Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago

Yes, good link. I use the Enhanced G29 from there, and have a 16-point bed level check before every print, and a 25-point check for bed topography.

Re: Kapton and PLA - 10 years ago

I just finished the bottom part of a Grumpkin in PLA, on glass with Elmer's Disappearing Purple Washable School Glue stick applied. It works very well, even with ABS.

Re: Idea: signal LED while printing / stand-by - 10 years ago

Quotetniercke it would be nice to have an extra output pin to switch on some white LEDs (12V preferred) illuminating the heatbed right under the nozzle while printing. You don't need an output pin for that, just a switch and run the LED wires direct to the power supply. There will be some non-printing times you'll want them on.

Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago

Check here: [3dprintboard.com]

Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago

Quoteregpye QuoteAbuMaia QuoteregpyeIf you want to do it the hard way, keep doing as you have been. My method works every time and is very easy. Not had a failure yet and I have setup many this way. Do you get as big a variation in numbers when you do it both ways? I have only done the one way. Very well. I'm glad your way works for you. Perhaps someone else may be more helpful.

Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago

QuoteregpyeIf you want to do it the hard way, keep doing as you have been. My method works every time and is very easy. Not had a failure yet and I have setup many this way. Do you get as big a variation in numbers when you do it both ways?

Re: My Prusa i3 Thread - 10 years ago

QuotexxJaRxx Thanks AbuMaia. I think I will be sourcing the components myself as opposed to getting a kit. I have seen lots of reviews of the MakerFarm kits, they are obviously a very popular option. How are you finding the E3D v6? That will be the hotend I go with I think. Do you (or anyone else) know how easy it is to print NinjaFlex with it? Does it require any additional hardware? I'm loving

Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago

QuoteregpyeUsing this method is so easy and very accurate too. Just one variable to change in the firmware and then the rest is done automatically. 1. Home the Z. It will be above the bed but will read as zero position. 2. Lower nozzle to bed position. Use paper to get the correct bed space. 3. Send M114 from Pronterface to read the position. 4. The reading shown on the screen will be the exact

Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago

Is there a discussion somewhere about which type of switch is best to use for ABL? Or do we just use whatever is handy? I ask because I feel I could make my Z probe more compact if I use either a momentary tactile switch or a momentary pushbutton switch instead of the microswitch everyone seems to use because it was their old Z limit switch.

Re: My Prusa i3 Thread - 10 years ago

I don't know about other i3 styles, but I've been quite happy with the MakerFarm kits. I started on their 8 inch i3, and later upgraded to the 8 inch i3v. It comes with an LCD with built-in SD card reader.

Re: Cooling fan on Prusa Mendel I2 - 10 years ago

I don't know about the i2. I run an i3v with slic3r as my usual slicer, cura for those prints that slic3r can't handle, Marlin firmware, and Pronterface (printrun) when I need to control the printer directly from the computer. I also use Netfabb Basic to fix those .stl files that have errors, and to reorient objects within the .stl.

Re: PTFE bowden tube - 10 years ago

That's how the e3d v6 I have works. It's the 1.75 universal, and the PTFE tube goes all the way through the heatsink and into the heatbreak.

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteLittleMikeShould I move the zipties closer? I can't figure out why I don't have enough room. Pics attached. Yes. Either use one zip tie on each side, or put them side by side, and trim off the excess belt.

Re: Anyone have an stl for full graphics holder? - 10 years ago

Re: Cooling fan on Prusa Mendel I2 - 10 years ago

In Slic3r, in the cooling settings section, there should be a checkbox to keep the fan on constantly, instead of only using it for bridges and small layers.

Re: Use an Opto stop to pause print when filament runs out? - 10 years ago

I'm sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I, too, am experiencing the M600 being sent four times. I thought perhaps the "G4 P0" may be getting ignored, as it's "0", so I changed them to "G4 P1" instead, but no change. I'll put up with it for now, since I have to be present to thread in the new spool of filament anyway, might as well stick around to ensure the print starts again. I hope a fix is

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteBratan this is quite obviously a flaw in the design... Actually it's a failsafe design. If the nuts were as secure as you think they should be, when the hotend hits the bed, it'll keep getting pulled into the bed, damaging the printer. That the nuts pop out when the hotend hits the bed keeps too much pressure from being applied to the bed, and prevents damage. Don't glue the nuts in!

Re: Second print, not quite there yet. help appreciated - 10 years ago

QuoteUkIanMy E steps per mm was 107. This extrudes exactly 1mm of filament per 1mm request. This may be your problem, depending on definiton of terms. What do you mean by "extrudes"? Is that the length coming out of the hotend nozzle, or do you mean that's how much is being pulled through the extruder, with the hotend removed? You want it to be the latter, not the former.

Re: i3 X carriage sagging - 10 years ago

You could switch to a bowden extruder setup, move the motor and extruder off of your X axis, leaving only the hotend there. That would reduce the weight of the X carriage, and reduce the sagging.

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteBratan QuoteAllnei It is not stupid, if you heat HB (15-20min) in same time as HE (1-5min) then filament in HE will be destroyed due to high temperature for long time without extruding. For your problem with shift, try to to send more power to motors. I guess it makes sense, but printing process usually takes much longer than HB heating. Yes, but the filament isn't staying still during prin

Re: Prusa i3 Rework: Any updates on the CNC attachment? - 10 years ago

QuotecsamsiI'm hoping for a quick attach / detach way to mount / unmount the extruder and dremel flex shaft. Maybe this will help get you started?

Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago

QuoteDraobSome printers who have a metal bed use a magnetic sensor directly on the carriage and get the same results with +/- .05 precision everytime. Would a Hall effect sensor be able to detect a magnetic field generated by the current in the heatbed (if there is one)?