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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
That's the firmware Colin offers for the MakerFarm i3v. I don't think he's used any of the updated Marlin code since he started making the i3 kits.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Auto bed levelling - Multiple axis - 10 years ago
How would using fixed X and Y endstops identify that the X or Y plane is out of square? They can only probe one point each.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Help with low quality prints - 10 years ago
Now adjust your extrusion settings, see if that helps.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruder parts - 10 years ago
Send me a PM so we can work out the details.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruder parts - 10 years ago
I'm not in Washington, but in Colorado. I have a spare large gear on hand not being used. It was part of the extruder I received with my MakerFarm kit. I have since printed out new extruder parts, and am using them, so I can send you this one if you wish.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: After about 4 months of perfect work now big trouble - 10 years ago
Did you not check the stepper driver voltage before replacing the RAMPS? Oops, I see you just did check it. It looks like your Y axis is skipping steps. It could be improper voltage through the driver, your toothed gear on the motor could be loose, or you could have the speed too high in your firmware.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bought a used MedelMax1.5 - 10 years ago
You may need to get a different hotend to run a different diameter filament.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: quantum prusa mendel - 10 years ago
I don't see any reason why you couldn't use Marlin firmware, though I have zero experience with the i2 or Repetier.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Can't figure out how to mount JHead to Wade's extruder - 10 years ago
QuotewaitakiCheap rip-off? Isn't the j-head an open source design? They can't be any worse than those that many of us make in our sheds and garages and which serve us well. The E3D is a decent hot-end but it too has its issues. It may be an open-source design, but what may make it a cheap rip-off is whether they adhered to the design specifications during manufacture. Look here:by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Z coupler - 10 years ago
If you got the couplers from MakerFarm, you have to really really tighten the end holding the threaded rod. When it feels it's bottomed out, keep turning it. I had the same issue until I kept tightening it beyond what felt like the bottom of the bolt hole.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Need help assembling Prusa i3 from 3dprinterczar - 10 years ago
I don't know about the rest, but I think the springs are used to tension the X and Y belts.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: stepper motor too hot - 10 years ago
You could adjust the voltage going to the motors by turning down the adjustable pot on the stepper drivers, or you could put fans on the motors, or both.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Help a noobie choose! PRUSA i3 kit - 10 years ago
I got the Makerfarm i3 kit a few months ago, and am awaiting delivery of the i3v upgrade. I don't know about the other kits, no experience with them, but I can say the Makerfarm has ease of assembly and super customer support (even if you're not yet a customer). I almost got one of those Prusa Mendel a-frame kits, but then noticed how much fiddling is needed to get the frame square. No such fiddlby AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bad edges on i3 + e3d v5 - 10 years ago
Looks like your Z axis needs better calibration, there are gaps showing in the back of the piece.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: How to make RRD Smart Controller LCD beep when print is finished? - 10 years ago
Thanks. I tried doing a search, but it didn't return any results.by AbuMaia - RAMPS Electronics
How to make RRD Smart Controller LCD beep when print is finished? - 10 years ago
The title pretty much says it all. How do I set the RepRapDiscount Smart Controller LCD to sound a beep when the print is done?by AbuMaia - RAMPS Electronics
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
I must say the stories so far have made me hesitant about ordering from them in the future.by AbuMaia - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
With a carbon fibre print surface, wouldn't one be facing the risk of a print pulling some of the fibres off?by AbuMaia - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Do you have any Kapton tape? Use that to tape the thermistor to the middle of the bed heater.by AbuMaia - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: installing driver on ramps - 10 years ago
That's how they are on mine, with the pots away from the power connectors.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Smooth rods, cheap bearings, and grooves... - 10 years ago
Perhaps a set of these could be one of your first prints.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Whats Up With My Solid Layers?! - 10 years ago
Printing too fast/hot? Extrusion speed too high?by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
I just added a 7805 to my RAMPS board for the servo, as well as a switch to control the motor cooling fans. Now whenever I turn the fans on, the servo jumps about 10 degrees.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
I cannot "do a G29" from my LCD either. I have the RepRap Discount whatever one, not the full graphic one though.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 - Troubleshooting > The sound of mordor - 10 years ago
It might not be the whole RAMPS board, but just the motor controller.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 6" Z motor to threaded rod connection prob - 10 years ago
They look similar to mine. Mine, which I purchased from MakerFarm (http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/hardware/5mm-to-5mm-z-coupler.html), have a split on each end, so that when the screws are tightened, the metal "clamps" around the shaft and rod. It looks like yours just have grub screws to press directly against the shaft and rod to hold them. I don't see any reason why yours would be "wrong",by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Help with Auto Bed Leveling! - 10 years ago
I think someone had a similar issue in the "Auto Bed Levelling - Check this out!" thread.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 6" Z motor to threaded rod connection prob - 10 years ago
No, the threaded rod should not rest on the motor shaft. You'll know when it's tight enough when you can turn the top of the threaded rod (with the printer off) and it turns the motor shaft without slipping. You can hear and feel this.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 6" Z motor to threaded rod connection prob - 10 years ago
Yeah, the rods are a bit looser than the shafts. When you tighten the screws, you'll feel what seems like the screw "bottoming out". If you leave it there, the threaded rod will be too loose still. Put more torque into it, and really tighten the screws. Be sure to leave a small gap between the end of the threaded rod and the motor shaft, too.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 6" Z motor to threaded rod connection prob - 10 years ago
I haven't had to cut any wood away to use the metal couplers I got from MakerFarm. Just don't try to give the motor shaft and the threaded rod an equal share inside the coupler, and it'll fit. Push the coupler as far onto the shaft as you can, then put two or three millimetres of threaded rod in the top, and tighten it all down. It also helps to have the nozzle as close to the bed (or touching) bby AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics