Yup, the metal couplers work for me, once I learned to not mount them so high they hit the bottom of the X axis, and to tighten the screws beyond what I thought was the bottom of their holes. I like having them attached with screws and not zipties The only times I've had a problem with the nuts on the threaded rods coming untrapped is when the Z axis tried to move the nozzle through the print bby AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
I just printed out the nested birdhouse. All Slic3r had to do was tell the printer to make three passes per layer for each shell. But for some reason, it did the infill pass in lots of tiny segments, not one long pass from end to end. Weird.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Good settings, a fan on the extruded plastic, other factors. I managed to get good bridging by turning a fan on the plastic as it comes out, and slowing down the print speed during bridging. It works.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Perhaps at those lower layer sizes, the plastic isn't being extruded as fast, giving it time to melt higher up in the hotend and causing a jam. Have you tried stepping up the print speed (perhaps using the LCD knob) when printing smaller layers?by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
I've had no problems with my J-Head and Greg's extruder I got from MakerFarm, other than the nozzle snagging as mentioned before. I run 1.75 ABS through it. Though I do want to try a bowden setup at some point. I also intend to upgrade to an E3D hotend shortly. I feel it may help with some of my print issues (cracks, warps, etc).by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Until you get another nozzle, adjust your nozzle height above the print bed, and your extrusion rate. Once you get these dialed in, there won't be the excess plastic getting plowed up by the nozzle, and no more globs. Snags might still happen, especially on overhangs if the plastic cools too fast and curls up into the path of the nozzle.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
205 C seems a bit high for PLA. Maybe it's too runny and not staying where the extruder puts it.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
If you paint/seal your MakerFarm i3, do it before assembly, even before you knock the little pegs and blocks out of the holes. This will help keep the holes from getting paint inside, which makes assembly harder.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Has anyone else experienced the Y axis moving slightly during a Z "raise before homing" move? I have Marlin set to lift the Z axis 15mm before homing, and likewise, the Y axis is moved 15mm away from its endstop. I haven't been able to figure out why it's doing this. "Safe Z Homing" is disabled. Does anyone have a solution?by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Sounds like your Z-axis end stop switch is faulty, or that whatever is actuating it is moving between prints.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
That doesn't sound right. You specified temps in your inital post, so I assume you have a thermistor monitoring hot end temp. What software/firmware do you use?by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
I would have thought that when it threw an error during compiling due to bad variables, it would tell you where in the code the problem was?by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Did you copy/paste this, or did you type it all in here in the forum manually? I see a problem in this section: #if defined (REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER) #define DOGLCD 3define NEWPANEL #define U8GLIB_ST7920 #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER #endif The "3" instead of a "#".by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Perhaps one of the wires connected to your resistor is loose? Once it starts moving during printing, the connection could be broken, causing it to cool down.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
I have a Makerfarm i3 8 inch, not the V unfortunately, I got mine just before he released that version. I haven't had too much trouble with the wood warping, only on the Y bed so far, and the manual bed levelling kit helps compensate for the slight warp.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
I adjusted the pots on my stepper drivers while they were running. Turned them anti-clockwise until the motors stopped, then turned them clockwise until they started moving again. At that point, they are giving enough juice to run, but not so much they get too hot.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
If you can see your Z motors turning, but the Z axis isn't changing, perhaps your Z nuts have come untrapped? Or the threaded rods come uncoupled from the motors? Both have happened to me recently.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
That raises the entire extruder, not just the probe. The probe will retract, then Z will lift that number, move to the next probe point, then extend the probe.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
You have the same printer as I, yet there are some differences in our firmware. This block: #ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX I have the three "#define"s commented out (//) Then just after that block, where it says "// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and groundby AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
That's normal, to get the endstops hit message after probing. After all, the probe is your new Z endstop.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
That's odd. In my pronterface, speeds are mm/min. 3000 mm/min is 50 mm/sec. Though with Slic3r being mm/sec, it can get a bit confusing testing speed in one and setting it in the other.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
This should help you get your Marlin up to the latest version.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Sounds like the PWM might be too low for the fan. My fan needs at least a setting of 127 to start spinning, or 50%. It can be reduced after that and keep spinning, but it needs that extra juice to get started.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Do you have it connected to a computer to issue movement commands to the printer?by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
When you're given two different lengths, go with the longer one. If it's too long, you can cut it shorter. If you get the shorter one, and it's too short, you're screwed.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Depending on what hotend is being used, some require a fan to blow on the cylinder above the nozzle to keep the filament from melting too high up in the hotend and causing a jam.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
"And something about the printer being shut down for low temp." Sounds like #define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE wasn't disabled.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
I made a slight modification to my manual bed levelling kit that came with the MakerFarm Prusa i3 kit. I'm only using two of the springs now, on the end of the bed closest to the endstop switch. On the end of the bed closest to the Y motor, I have the nylon standoffs. I felt this would present a more consistent bed level to calibrate the Z level against, then I could use the two front springs toby AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Are you sending a speed along with the raw GCode? Perhaps Pronterface is trying to spin the motors too fast, and when you send the GCode manually, you're using a speed they like better.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics
Be careful with MakerFarm jheads, they have a little cylindrical extension to the nozzle that likes to plow up soft plastic and get snagged on globs.by AbuMaia - General Mendel Topics