Rather than reed switches, I'd look into something like these: Even though they're discontinued, the A3144 is pretty easy to find.by grat - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK This is not correct. If DC42's does 500mm at 1m tall then to do another 500mm he just makes it 1.5m tall. Then it still falls within the range I specified of "1.5 to 2.0 meters". Note that dc42 only claims 540mm build height in the middle-- for true wall-to-wall build height of 1000mm, more height is needed. As he says, for true 300x300 square build area, again, more height is neeby grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotehercek I would say that such kind of an error is impossible. X, Y, and Z errors are all tied together in delta. If your bed is leveled and your Z height is correct then also X and Y dimensions will be correct. Quite possible. X and Y are derived values, based on polar <-> rectangular conversions. To change X or Y, your printer moves all three motors differently, based on diagonal roby grat - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK Hey, How come you are not looking at a Delta? It seems to me that it is the perfect solution for the geometry you want (300x300 x1000) Delta's scale poorly, even more so when you're talking 1m Z axis-- My delta is 720mm tall, and has a build height of 280mm. dc42's delta is 300mm diameter, 480-540mm print height, and is 1m tall. Best case, you're looking at 1.5-2.0 meter tall printby grat - CoreXY Machines
QuoteSir_Death Do you use G0 for travel or G1 ? - should be using G1, as G0 is uncoordinated..... From the RepRapWiki: G0 & G1: Move G0 : Rapid linear Move G1 : Linear Move I don't know what an "uncoordinated" move would be. "Relative" (to last position) and "absolute" (relative to origin) are toggled via G91 and G90, respectively.by grat - Delta Machines
You're under-extruding on the long runs for your infill. Could be not enough torque on your extruder assembly, could be not enough heat, could be too many bends (or too tight a set of bends) in your bowden tube. Personally, I vote for one, large radius bend in your bowden tube, and to keep the overall tube length as short as possible. The outside is OK because you have a lower speed for your iby grat - Delta Machines
Quotenimrod I'm going to buy one, but for this project "Build a kossel without any Sets or kits" i prefered a simple Electronic. For the next Time, or the next Upgrade, a Duet Board Is in the top of my List. Just remember, if you want on-board display for Duet, it's going to be Panel Due. Neither GLCD nor the 20x4 text LCD are supported.by grat - Delta Machines
Quoteruggb @grat if u r using the openbuilds leadscrews - a note of caution........ they r very poor quality cuts and only work with their Delrin nuts - if u try to use them with brass nuts per the design brackets u will have to file the whole length of the screws to make them work. -- they sent me 3 and finally sent one with the delrin nut. they were all bad. They were the 1M ones. other lenghtsby grat - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDavid J The trouble with braiding is that it's difficult to add or remove wires after the event - point 2 above. I've already got all the wires in place, so I'm not too keen to replace them with flat cable! It's not too bad as long as you didn't skimp on the diameter of the braiding. Also, I highly recommend a hot knife-- you can cut/seal the ends in one step. Alternatively, you could usby grat - CoreXY Machines
For what it's worth, I'm working on a triple-leadscrew version of the C-Bot using a 320x250 bed and 500mm leadscrews. I didn't quite use Carl's calculations, I drew it out in Blender, so the frame dimensions are currently 580mm x 340mm x 640mm. Carl's spreadsheet, however, does allow you to enter the size of your heatbed, and it will generate a BOM for you, since it's a very scalable design.by grat - CoreXY Machines
If you're going to do a large C-Bot, take a look at the triple C-Bot, which uses 3 lead screws for the Z-axis instead of a cantilever. openbuilds.orgby grat - CoreXY Machines
With no intention of derailing the topic... WD-40 is not a lubricant, and should not even be in the same sentence as other lubricants. Short-term, it may function as a lubricant, but that's not what it's for.by grat - CoreXY Machines
I'll say yes, but for absolutely none of the reasons dc42 listed. I have a 12v system with a fairly large (Onyx) heated bed, and I got tired of smoking the cheaply built ramps cards (most of them have undersized connectors for the 11A terminal, and lack a heatsink on the Q3 MOSFET). Switched to Arduino Due board (knockoff) and a RADDS board with Repetier Due firmware, and haven't had a problemby grat - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian There are two separate things you need to check: 1) Squareness of the towers to the horizontal extrusions 2) Squareness of the towers to the bed I would change #2 to be "Bed should be parallel to the horizontal extrusions"-- mainly, because it's easier to check (calipers between extrusion and bed). Also, if you've already squared the towers and the horizontals, then squaring the bby grat - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I have only ever used 1.75mm Bowden extruders and I generally find them OK. I agree that getting the right amount of retraction is critical. I have not tried to print flexible filament. A non Bowden extruder light enough for a delta printer would be nice. I have it in mind to build one around a small BLDC motor with reduction gearbox, encoder, and microcontroller. Ultibots has one onby grat - CoreXY Machines
First, you want your printer as mechanically calibrated as possible-- Frame should be as "square" (uprights perpendicular to horizontals, towers at 120 degree intervals) as possible, bed parallel to the horizontals, etc.. Then, in order of performance / quality boost: Good: Switch to repetier firmware on current hardware (may drive LCD) Better: Switch to Repetier firmware on Arduino Due/RADDSby grat - Delta Machines
The F306 from Fusion3 uses spectra line, and is considered one of the best CoreXY printers available, so I wouldn't knock spectra. They're also using carriages on extrusions. Another printer worth looking at is the C-Bot by Carl Feniak-- uses belts and a cantilever bed, but also uses carriage-on-extrusion. Unless you're going over 500mm build area, I wouldn't think you'd need over 2020 extrusiby grat - CoreXY Machines
You might want to take a look at the ultibots site-- they sell a v-slot kossel 250 kit, and have a thingiverse page (with BOM and STL's) for it as well:by grat - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe Loud pipes saves lives You are right, the creaking bodywork was a little drawback. But when you hear the tyres scream without any engine noise, it is a heartstopper Loud pipes do not save lives. Intelligent driving and situational awareness save lives. Exhaust notes tend to echo and reflect badly enough that at best, they make someone aware that you're in the vicinity-- assuminby grat - Delta Machines
One thing to be aware of, based on personal experience: Looking at your RAMPS board, there are two things you might want to change... First, the right-angle terminal block for the power supply inputs is rated at 10A, and with ABS printing, you'll be pulling 11A+ through it. I'd look for the upgraded 15A connectors (It's a 2 x2 connectors, rather than 1 x4 connector). Sooner or later, the conneby grat - CoreXY Machines
Inside Slic3r, on "Filament Settings" tab, under "Cooling".by grat - Delta Machines
Realizing it's purely an aesthetic thing, the one issue with coreXY that bugs me is the belt cross. Is there any reason not to stack the idlers, and eliminate the belt crossing?by grat - CoreXY Machines
Remember that every curve in your bowden tube will increase the friction of the filament passing through it. You want as few bends as possible, and as large a radius on each bend as possible.by grat - Delta Machines
Quoteekaggrat soon you will see a chinese v6 lite clones at 5-10 dollars and the same quality.... But with much, much, much worse support available.by grat - Delta Machines
H means "high". Hold one of the endstops closed, and try M119 again.by grat - Delta Machines
Send M119 to the printer. it should return a list of known endstops, and if they're open or closed. Look in Configuration.h of the repetier firmware directory (src/ArduinoAVR/Repetier/Configuration.h) and make sure the ENDSTOP_PULLUP is defined to true: #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX true #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX true #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX true Also make sure you have "DRIVE_SYSTEM 3by grat - Delta Machines
Quotevreihen QuotegratI didn't say GLCD. I said the smart controller, with the 4 line text display. For form-factor / aesthetic reasons, it's what I have on my Kossel Clear, and I've been told by Arthur Wolf, that while the pinout is the same as the GLCD, the code isn't, and no one has written it. I keep forgetting that RRD also made the LCD-2004. Is it a parallel LCD that might work with theby grat - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 The LCD may be optional, but unless you accept either a low printing speed or stop/start printing while the USB struggles to catch up with the printer, the SD card socket isn't. That's another reason why I think the Mega/RAMPS is a poor choice as a 3D printer controller these days. The more modern boards mostly have native (higher speed) USB and an SD card slot built in. They also haveby grat - Delta Machines
Quotevreihen QuotegratThe Azteeg X5 has a nice form factor, but until recently, has had no useful LCD options for my printer (Why Smoothie doesn't support the discountreprap smart controller is beyond me). I've been running an RRD GLCD clone with my Azteeg X5 Mini (V1.0) since last fall, and it most certainly *is* supported in Smoothieware if you roll up your sleeves and make your own adapter caby grat - Delta Machines
Quotedc42Personally, I would never run a delta printer with an 8-bit controller When the option is to use an 8-bit controller, or write my own @%(* firmware, guess what? I'm going to use an 8-bit controller. I have a smoothieboard on order-- although it's form factor won't play nicely with my delta (and it didn't support Deltas this time last year). Some of the artifacts on Delta smoothie priby grat - Delta Machines