The uprights on the printer would probably prevent you from shifting the print for each layer, otherwise you could use a separate glass (or other bed material) the same size as the pulley and shift it for each segment. Registering each move would be the hardest part. I think the folded wheel is the best solution.by etfrench - General
If you print the hubs separately, is there enough room to shift the pulley part on the bed and print one side, then shift and print the other side(s)? If you're using ABS, then glueing with Acetone will give you as strong a piece as if it were printed in one piece. p.s. If you're using PLA, then you can print on Acrylic and be able to shift the Acrylic piece with the PLA piece still attached.by etfrench - General
Positioning a print cooling fan is easier with the hotend below the effector. I don't think this is much of a benefit though. The heat sink above the effector gives makes more vertical space available for the print. It also lessens the effects of a tilted effector (for example:if your arms aren't exactly the same length). The effector definitely increases the cooling area.by etfrench - Delta Machines
My aluminum effector weighs 22 grams by itself. Adding the ball bearings (14mm) and magnets bring the weight up to 110 grams. It's more than rigid enough, so I could probably shave a couple more grams from the effector, but it wouldn't change the overall weight enough to make it worth the effort. Here's a shot of it with a Prometheus hot end attached.by etfrench - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 - Cork sheet under the silicone heater for insulation - Aluminium foil glued on top of the cork sheet to help reflect heat back What is the max temperature you can use with cork insulation? Can it handle long print times at 130c if you're printing polycarbonate? I'm considering using .5" to 1" of PIR under the bed, but still need to investigate a little more to make sure it can haby etfrench - Reprappers
Why would you want to ignore a security warning?by etfrench - Reprappers
The hobbed gear is this one from Tridprinting. The geared stepper is this one from StepperOnline. Are there any good models available for testing extrusion volumes and speeds?by etfrench - General
I tried the green frog tape today for PLA with an unheated bed and the print did not stick to it at all. The frog tape does work good for paintingby etfrench - Reprappers
Giving gear ratios for the extruder are meaningless unless you include the hobbed gear diameter (or even more correctly the diametrical pitch). I'm using a 5:1 geared stepper with an 11.4mm diameter hobbed gear. It seems to be working fine at print speeds up to 150mm/s (I haven't tried it faster than this yet). p.s. This is for 1.75mm filament.by etfrench - General
You can make zero backlash nuts quite inexpensively using this method. I build a CNC router using this technique and I can't measure any backlash. It uses .375" two start Acme leadscrew. I also used the technique on a macro slide for my camera. It uses stainless 5mm all-thread for the leadscrew and can make 1 micron steps, plus or minus .5 microns. Both applications are lower speed than a 3dby etfrench - General
Do you mean the Z axis doesn't move 5mm down after homing, or it doesn't lift 5mm when the extruder is retracting filament?by etfrench - Delta Machines
I'd recommend starting with a .35 or .4 nozzle. It will make it easier to get the machine calibrated. Once it's running fine, move to the .2 or smaller nozzle.by etfrench - General
I think the limiting factor for FDM is the nozzle size. Current readily available nozzles go down to .2mm. It's not hard to make your own nozzles, so it's feasible to get to 50 micron resolution. SLA printing has higher resolution than FDM, but I haven't looked at them to see what they can achieve. I've printed 10 micron layer heights on my delta printer as an experiment, but haven't verifiedby etfrench - General
Which slicer program are you using? What material? What temperature is the hot end? Heated bed? If so, what temperature? What speed? What are your retraction settings? Have you calibrated the extruder? Have you tried slowing the speeds down until the arms are stable? I'd recommend printing some of the calibration objects available on thingiverse so you can get a better idea of what's causing tby etfrench - Delta Machines
Could someone say what the "^" means in "1.28!^"? It doesn't appear to be documented anywhere. Pin 1.28 is Z min. Scroll down in this link, , to the Smoothieboard pinout. p.s. You can use any unused endstop pins if you set it in the config file.by etfrench - Reprappers
Smoothieboard supports servos, but I'm pretty sure you can't run two drivers on a single servo (or stepper).by etfrench - General
This site has a very nice explanation on how to configure Slic3r:by etfrench - Delta Machines
M119 is the gcode to get the end stop status. Verify the status when the end stop is tripped and when it's not. p.s. It's rather odd the end stops are at the bottom. Shouldn't they be at the upper limit of travel?by etfrench - Reprappers
Sorry, I don't have a mini-Kossel, so hopefully someone else can post their ini file. You may get more response if you post the actual problem you're having. Siamo spiacenti, non hanno un mini-Kossel, quindi speriamo che qualcun altro può inviare loro file ini. È possibile ottenere più risposta se si registra il reale problema che stai avendo.by etfrench - Delta Machines
Before you attach the new plate to the machine, you could use it to determine if the old plate is the problem or if the rails are the problem. Put some bluing on the plate and rub it against the old plate (leave the old plate installed on the machine). You can use Prussian blue artists paint if you don't have bluing. High and low spots will be quite visible.by etfrench - Reprappers
Which Slic3r parameters do you need help with? (Translated using Bing) Quali parametri di Slic3r hai bisogno di aiuto?by etfrench - Delta Machines
ViaCad works well. You can pick up the previous version for about $35. I've switched to Fusion 360. Price is $0 unless you're a business making more than $100000. It has some support for 3d printing and will probably gain more soon. The main attraction for me is the integrated CAM. Example:by etfrench - General
The grub (set) screws should be stainless steel. It would be even less expensive to use stainless all-thread. It's not impossible to drill 30mm deep with a 4mm drill (assuming you will be using 4mm PTFE tube), but it is very difficult to do this so the hole remains in the center. Research peck drilling and also d-bits. If you use a regular twist drill, make sure it is new or sharpened properlyby etfrench - General
Add a top view to show the actual build size.by etfrench - Delta Machines
Igus doesn't specify what the press fit for RJ4JP-01-08 should be. I'd contact them and get the specific recommendations for this part.by etfrench - Reprappers
Sounds like a perfect job for a 3d printerby etfrench - General
Beaglebone Black with MachineKit would probably work for all of the different operations.by etfrench - General
Shoulder bolts work well for this application.by etfrench - General
I'd recommend using a CAD program to create the stl files. OpenScad works well if you're a programmer. FreeCad is another. I use Fusion 360, which is a 3d modeling program and is also free. Misumi provides 3d models that can imported, manipulated, then saved as stl files.by etfrench - Delta Machines
Beaglebone Black with MachineKit and a CRAMPS board is also a good option.by etfrench - General