Quotecman8 Just spread out my parts. Looks to be complete. I did get the 36 tooth not the 20 tooth. Do you guys suggest I order the 20 tooth instead? Also what are most of you cutting your rods at? I know a lot of people have been saying the length on the manual is no good. Is this the case? It is really up to you to decide but I recommend the 20T pulleys as they give more resolution at the expeby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotejculver09 Thank you mmcginnis. This answers just about every question I had about setting these up. The geometry of the effector and carriages is what I think the calculator I mentioned is missing. So you would recommend I order 200mm long rods (I am assuming this is still measured center to center on the balls). I may order them from him or make them myself because he has a 3 week leadby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad How does your's hold up under high speed printing? I've printed about 3 KG of filament through my machine with the mag effector setup and so far I see no noticable wear on the sockets, and I haven't even lubed them like I thought I should. I simply forgot to and they are still holding up fine. Haydn prints them in PLA. I noticed a dramatic increase in print speed with the longerby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Quotemmcginnis9272 I instead found some magnetic effector and rail mounts on Thingiverse and modified them to acccept Haydn's ball mounts. I uploaded my modified parts to thingiverse here: I initially setup everything this way with his 288mm rods. This ended up not working very good as my effector now could reach 2 to 3 inches outside my build plate, included easily smacking my pby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotejculver09 There is a calculator posted earlier in this thread (posted by vorpal on page 13). I dont think it is 100% perfect for predicting the outcome, but at first glance it seems to be close. I planned on measuring my current setup, checking it against the calculator, and using the difference I find to give me an improvement on the calculators prediction to determine if it is worth it toby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
QuoteADecker Got my printer built and just got it calibrated. Kit was missing the hardware -- Got that in the mail. Kit is missing one of the top 3D printed pieces -- I took the bearings that I had left and put them on a bolt, used a TNut and attached them to the top of the vertical support, should allow me enough time to print the corner piece. Heated bed doesn't work, going to check the soldby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quote3D52 Is the LCD Controller worth buying, if so which one? I purchased the 2004 LCD for $12 and I've very pleased with it. The SD card slot is great for long builds when I need my laptop elsewhere. I don't know anything about the graphical screen, but it looks cool for a couple extra bucks. I wouldn't recommend NOT buying one.by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotevorpal Ive started to build as well. Also used all of the 8mm for the base as per instructions. Have alot of 10mm two types of heads. but a thought would be to uses washers to space if needed, or drill through profile into center cavity. One of my rails is very rough running, tried grease not helping. I have heard some cheap rails have missing balls, maybe the case here. The words "You get gby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotertideas They dropped their price to $385.99 on their website as well. Strange to see a company hiring more people and dropping their prices at the same time. Kudos to them.by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotekirkm Got my kit in the mail yesterday evening and everything looks in order. After sorting out the hardware bag my son and I started the build using the V2 instructions on the google drive site. For putting the base together (stepper and base extrusion assembly), 8MM length screws are called for. However, there are only 30 8MM screws in the hardware bag per the inventory list, The baseby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotevorpal Quotemmcginnis9272 Quotevorpal The manual currently states 230mm for the Diagonal rod assembly. I have seen various other recommened lengths thoughout the forum. Does someone know if there is there a formula for this dependant on the frame size? Also is the 700mm height really requied? there seems to be a fair bit of space above the endstops not being utilised. That extra space abovby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotevorpal The manual currently states 230mm for the Diagonal rod assembly. I have seen various other recommened lengths thoughout the forum. Does someone know if there is there a formula for this dependant on the frame size? Also is the 700mm height really requied? there seems to be a fair bit of space above the endstops not being utilised. That extra space above the endstope gets used when yby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quoterotten_carrot 1. 20 tooth or the included 36 tooth pulleys? 2. I realise that the build manual has the RAMPS and Arduino boards installed underneath the heated bed but, as has already been tried on this forum, would it be better to position these on top of the frame and away from the heat? Is the heat from the bed problematic enough to extend all of those wires and reposition? 1. I aby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotejuicev85 I am trying to get this delta calibrated, I noticed that the version of Marlin on the google drive does not include the M666 command for endstop offsets. Is there an alternative place where I can enter offsets for the endstops. I prefer to use software offsets to adjust the endstops, because adjusting them physically is not very precise. Right now if I have the nozzle height 100uby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotecman8 i think we just need to relax. Its not like we didnt know that shipping was going to be delayed. from all ive seen is their slammed and a little slow to respond (they were slow with me) but never have I felt like Ive been blown off. I always have gotten an answer to a question. Im still patiently waiting for mine to get here and for the price I dont mind. I would agree. It took 25 dayby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotegreggo should i disconnect the servo jumper if i decided to take out the autolevel? It does not hurt to leave the jumper there. All it does is connect the rail to 5V. With nothing connected to the rail, it is simply an unused trace on the board.by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
I did print that head at .05mm per layer. To the naked eye, there doesn't seem to be much difference between it and .1mm, but under a magnafying glass... wow!! I included a couple pics of 3 prints of this head, all no larger than a quarter. The .2mm is on the left, .1mm in the middle and .05 on the right. My phone camera is not that great, but you get the idea. Even in the pics you can't seby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
BTW, I am posting a couple more pics of a print I just made this morning. I am also posting the STL file. I never cease to be amazed at what I can get this printer to create. The picture shows the output of the following: Marlin firmware controlled by RepetierHost using Cura to slice. .1mm layers with spiral vase mode enabled .4mm print head 195C head, 50C bed temps (bed temp shut off after aboby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotejuicev85 For what its worth, I just checked the resistance on my heatbed (just received my kit a few days ago and i haven't quite got it built yet) and it was about 1.3 ohms which is correct for the 12V mk3. This is approximately half of what someone else reported as their measured resistance value. As, such i don't foresee having a problem with mine. I am not sure if folgertech heard theby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotevorpal Quotemmcginnis9272 Quotevorpal I also ordered on the 2nd March. looking forward to hearing from Folger. no word yet. If anyone has prints theyd like to share, be great to see. I'll be contributing more once mine arrives. Here are a few of my first prints: The pic of the two red heads: the one on the left is at .2mm layer in spiral vase mode (you can see the hair angle was too steepby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotevorpal I also ordered on the 2nd March. looking forward to hearing from Folger. no word yet. If anyone has prints theyd like to share, be great to see. I'll be contributing more once mine arrives. Here are a few of my first prints: The pic of the two red heads: the one on the left is at .2mm layer in spiral vase mode (you can see the hair angle was too steep to fill in. The one on the rigby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
For the price, I personally don't think you can beat it. The quality of the prints from this machine rival many machines that cost a thousand dollars or more. This is my very first experience with a home made 3d Printer( however, I am a service technician for 3D Systems and I work on $85,000 + machines). It was not difficult at all to assemble and I am blown away at the quality that this $400.0by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotegreggo Is anyone else having a problem where the g29 code only autocalibrates a little more than half of the build plate? By "half" do you mean the center half or a half that lies one one side or the other of the build plate? The rods that came with my kit were too short to reach the outter edges of the plate and thus it only calibrated the inner half or so of the plate. I installed Haydnby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quotegreggo so my zprobe is always triggered... no matter if its wired to NO or NC, button pressed or not. any ideas? Make sure your z-probe is connected as in the attached picture. Also, use a multi-meter in continuity or ohm mode and read the switch at the connector (not attached to the board) and make sure it is working. Let us know the results...by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Quoteohecht Heaters going crazy...any ideas? Here's what's happening...no changes have been made to the firmware or any heat-related print settings since this started: - The first issue was the the bed heater would not kick on when the bed was very cold...usually for the first print of the day or after a long break between prints. Since I'm using PLA on painter's tape and don't really need theby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
I am using basically the same filament holder as you except mine has two roller bearings in it for super low friction movement of the spool. I uploaded my version to thingiverse here: I got 2 bearings delivered for $3.30 here:by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
I increased my stepper voltage to .65v to get it to feed well. Since the Extruder motor is larger than the other 3 motors, the extra surface area dissapates heat better, it can handle more current and stillstay cool (The Folgertech manual voltage adjustment should be higher for this motor). You could even go higher than .65v if needed. The only risk you run is having the Polulo driver board geby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
I use the allen wrench switch system on mine and this very thing happens to me when I forget to deploy my sensor before I start the G29 probe. Basically, the printer detects the bed the moment it starts to travel down and thius compesated by moving up the next probe. Your z-min (auto level) switch might be wired wrong, normally closed instead of normally open or vice versa, depending on what yoby mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
I noticed that if you use Repetier firmware, the motors run one direction and the Marlin firmware runs the other. One solution is to reverse the stepper motor connector so the red wire is on the power supply side of the board with Repitier and the black wire is on the power supply side for Marlin firmware. Annother solution is to just set the direction of the motors in firmware.by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines
Strange, the extruder motor feed coupler and the effector coupler are identical on mine.by mmcginnis9272 - Delta Machines