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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Extruder making clicking noise and not extruding enough plastic - 9 years ago
Also check the thickness of the filament. It can vary quite a bit, especially cheap filament (e.g. 1.95mm where it should be 1.75mm), so you might be trying to push too much volume of filament through the nozzle. Also check the temperature of your extruder motor... if it's overheating (you can't hold your finger on it without pain), you'll need to turn the current down. If it's not overheating,by frankvdh - General
Re: best full color 3d printing hotend ? - 9 years ago
I think the barrier is not so much the FDM technology as the use of G-code. There's no particular reason why you couldn't mix colours on the fly if you could control pulse rates to the extruder steppers independently. Unfortunately, Gcode isn't capable of doing that, and every? 3D printer requires Gcode. Full-colour printing is going to require redesign of the software more-or-less from the groby frankvdh - General
Re: Noob pulling hair out: X-Axis travels 2X distance, prints 2X length - 9 years ago
Probably Dust is correct, but it could also be a misconfiguration in the software... it sounds like your X axis is set to exactly twice the steps/mm that it should be. See the Prusa Calculatorby frankvdh - Printing
Re: need help troubleshooting an error! - 9 years ago
I'd guess it's *because* you don't have a hotend. The thermistor input is open-circuit, and is interpreted as some very high temperature. Try putting a resistor (say 100K) across the thermistor inputs.by frankvdh - General
Re: nanoDLP - Raspberry PI based Software for DLP Printers - 9 years ago
Given that PNG is a compressed fromat, zipped PNG is a baffling choice.by frankvdh - Experimental
Re: Lumpy/rough surface to layers.... - 9 years ago
Over-extrusion? Measure your filament to see if it is actually 1.75mm (or 3mm). Or try reducing the "Flow" or whatever the factor is called in your slicer. Leaking plastic? Are your nozzle and heat break tight in the heater block? Tighten them up when hot.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: OMG here we go again. Folger Tech prints like garbage V2 - 9 years ago
QuoteHephaestus0000 I can't get this thing to print without spending a minimum of another $100 so it's getting a big smashy hammer. Spend $100 on it and you have a $500 printer, I guess. Smash it and you got nothing.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Can I get a stupidity check on my idea please? - 9 years ago
Hi Moriquendi, I was thinking the same kind of thing. I think an object is ultimately defined by a series of step instructions for the X,Y, Z axes and the extruder(s). I don't think the timing between the steps needs to be stored. So I figure that a small simple interrupt-driven stepper driver (one programmable timer for each stepper motor) would do for the printer controller. This device couldby frankvdh - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: Prints have ribs - 9 years ago
All kinds of things interact when printing. For example, it's possible that your slicer reverses direction every second layer, In that case, any play in the X or Y axes can cause this. If you use auto-levelling, and your slicer reverses direction, then play in the Z axis can cause this. Without photos and more details, it's really hard to answer.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Extruder stops extruding mid print - 9 years ago
The location of your 'idler support' pulley means that there are quite tight bends in the filament path, particularly when the head is further to the right.It also means that as the head moves left-to-right, it pushes filament back towards the spool (which could cause 'knotting' of the filament at the spool), and as it moves right-to-left it will pull it from the spool (if there's friction this mby frankvdh - Printing
Re: Cheap Boosterpack for MSP430 for 3D Printing - 9 years ago
I don't want to be negative, because I *am* looking for an alternative to RAMPS+Mega, and especially one with a 6th stepper, so this sounds good. But from a brief readthrough, it seems that Energia is kindof the equivalent of Arduino, i.e. a platform (a mini-OS, if you like) for running device-specific firmware, rather than the firmware itself. Whilst at some point I would be interested in doingby frankvdh - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Re: Duet + Duex4 into a Printrbot Go Large - 9 years ago
I'd suggest wiring the beds in parallel, with a manual switch in second bed's circuit. You would turn on the switch when you wanted to print on that part of the bed. I don't know that there's any firmware that can control two separate heat beds. The quick and dirty answer would be to only wire up one thermistor to the controller, and assume that the second bed is about the same temperature as tby frankvdh - Controllers
Re: Objects after too wide after printing - 9 years ago
Or reduce your extruder multiplier or steps/mm.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Cheap Boosterpack for MSP430 for 3D Printing - 9 years ago
So, just to be clear, what you're selling is more or less the equivalent of a RAMPS board that can drive 6 steppers, but for an MSP430 instead of Arduino. What 3D printing software is available for the MSP430? Has Marlin or some other 3D printer firmware been ported to it? What are the advantages of this over a $25 RAMPS+MEGA2560 combo?by frankvdh - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Re: Z axis lose steps - 9 years ago
Are you sure that 4000 is the right steps/mm? What threaded rod do you have driving the Z axis?by frankvdh - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Re: Unresponsive Z-axis end stop and wrong homing direction - K8200 / Repetier Firmware - 9 years ago
QuoteI don't have a probe, it's just got the simple switch. As far as I can tell, it seems to occur no matter where X and Y are currently. So would I be right in assuming I have to figure out where my problem with the Z endstop is? I'm guessing I've got 3 possibilities - 1. it's connected to the wrong pins on the board, 2. the switch itself is faulty, 3. there's a problem with the wiring betweenby frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Part stretched vertically - 9 years ago
QuoteMontiey What you got: 15.58 What you wanted: 9.95 So.. 15.58/9.95=1.56582914573 take your current Z esteps value and add that number to it. I think you mean multiply by that.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Unresponsive Z-axis end stop and wrong homing direction - K8200 / Repetier Firmware - 9 years ago
Quoteendstops hit: x_min:L y_min:L z_min:H Hmmm... my version of Marlin shows "open" or "TRIGGERED" rather than "L" or "H". Presumably "L" means Low meaning "open" and "H" means High meaning "TRIGGERED". So your printer was seeing the Z endstop as triggered when you ran that command. Try doing an M119 with the head up (say 10mm+ from the bed) and try another M119... if it's working properly, itby frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Extruder stops extruding mid print - 9 years ago
Quotesiddhesh92 If i keep unspooling by hand so that there is some loose filament hanging above the extruder entrance, it prints fine. This sounds like friction somewhere in the filament feed. Can you post a photo of the whole printer?by frankvdh - Printing
Re: What do you do when changing filament colors? - 9 years ago
450 and 430mm seem an awfully long distance... presumably you're running a Bowden setup?by frankvdh - General
Re: Extruder stops extruding mid print - 9 years ago
Measure your filament diameter... it may be undersize. Filament 'knotted' on the spool? I've had this where, when I set up the spool, I inadvertently pull the loose end *underneath* a second loop of filament. As the printer pulls filament, the second loop pulls tight and stops the filament from feeding. 230 degrees is very hot for PLA... I print at 180. Have you tried lower temperatures? Prinby frankvdh - Printing
Re: OMG here we go again. Folger Tech prints like garbage V2 - 9 years ago
I recently fixed a jamming problem on my PrintrBot, after months of frustration, so I feel your pain. I'd probably still be struggling if it wasn't for someone over on the PrintrBot forum posting about his jamming problem and solution. Hope this helps you... I've always had the spool placed behind the printer. Unbeknownst to me, over several months the PLA had worn the guide holes (particularlyby frankvdh - Printing
Re: What do you do when changing filament colors? - 9 years ago
Would it be worth putting a bit of 'natural' filament through between the two colours?by frankvdh - General
Re: Unresponsive Z-axis end stop and wrong homing direction - K8200 / Repetier Firmware - 9 years ago
What was the outcome of this? QuoteIssue the M119 from the terminal to check the status of the end-stops. If you have a Z-probe, it should only show triggered if there's something metal under it.by frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Extruder stops extruding mid print - 9 years ago
Increase the tension on your extruder? Filament spool turns easily? No sharp turns in the path between spool and extruder? Gear is tightly locked to the drive motor? All screws tight? Proper alignment of holes in extruder and hot-end?by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Post subject: @$%&*#! Nearly ready to throw the printer out the window! - 9 years ago
Maybe it's a different version of Marlin, by my understanding is that Marlin only looks at the end-stops when you're homing the axes. To stop running off the edge of the build volume whilst printing it assumes that every step actually happens as commanded. Issue the M119 from the terminal to check the status of the end-stops. If you have a Z-probe, it should only show triggered if there's somethby frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Layers not the same width in a part that should be smooth - 9 years ago
Is this a case of your layer height not corresponding well to your Z steps? Check out the "Optimal layer height for your Z axis" section of the calculatorby frankvdh - Printing
Re: Post subject: @$%&*#! Nearly ready to throw the printer out the window! - 9 years ago
Check your Z end-stop (or bed sensor). If it is always triggered it can cause behaviour like that.by frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Layers not the same width in a part that should be smooth - 9 years ago
Do you use auto-bed-levelling? If you have play in any axis, it can cause oddities in the other axes. e.g. play in the Z axis can cause unevenness in the X and/or Y axes if your slicer reverses directions between layers.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Does the Hotend Make Much of a Difference - 9 years ago
A hot end can make a big difference to reliability.... I'm on my 3rd, after having lots of clogs & jams with a Ubis ceramic (installed on my Printrbot when I got it), I tried a Chinese fake E3DV6, and I'm now on a Chinese all-metal J-head. It turns out that the jams were caused at least partly by the extruder, so I now don't know whether the "E3DV6" was any good, but (now that the extruder iby frankvdh - General