Quotedc42 What alternatives to STL representation do you have in mind? I'm thinking of AMF, which allows for curved triangles. I've checked a couple of programs (OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD), and they don't seem to use this feature. Quote Instead of using Bresenham, which sends stepper motor pulses at irregular intervals, why not calculate the times when the next steps are due based on distance travellby frankvdh - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Hi, You're probably better off asking this question in the FreeCAD forum rather than here. When you do ask there, give some details and screenshots showing exactly what you're trying to do. But, FWIW, I've been using FreeCAD on Windows 7 & Linux machines, and can select lines and faces. I suspect your problem is that you're not switching FreeCAD to the right "Workbench". Understanding theseby frankvdh - 3D Design tools
Hi all, I've been thinking recently about an improved method of controlling the X/Y motors, based on curves rather than straight lines. My main motivation in this is to get away from the planar-triangle meshes that are the current norm (e.g. STL files), so that the slicer can send a better representation of the model to the printer. (It does seem to be a chicken-and-egg thing... no-one is particuby frankvdh - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
When something like this happens, it's usually mechanical. Check that everything is tight. In particular check the Z-coupler... I had over a mm of play in mine. Lubricate rods. There's no funny noises from the steppers is there?by frankvdh - General
Hi Gertjan, How have you got Marlin configured? In particular, have you got Marlin configured as a Delta printer? Check Configuration.h Also possible is something screwed in your pins.h file... maybe you have the same pin being used for both X and Z or both Y and Z? Frankby frankvdh - RAMPS Electronics
What power supply do you have? I'm guessing it isn't powerful enough. Try running your steppers with both heaters turned off.by frankvdh - RAMPS Electronics
The report overlooks the issue of what is contained in the PLA. It's all very well that PLA itself is food-safe, but what about the dyes used to colour it?by frankvdh - Printing
AliExpress is your friend when it comes to supplies and prices... 12V linear motors start about $21 for 200mm/1000N. There's no reason you couldn't have a hybrid... a stepper for the vertical axis (which doesn't move much or fast), and linears for X,Y.by frankvdh - Developers
Again, check that your endstops are working... M119 is your friend.by frankvdh - General
I'm guessing that your power supply voltage is sagging when you try to move your motor(s), so that the MEGA board resets and stops. Try to isolate the problem... is it just the X axis or just they Y axis? If it's just one, then that's likely the problem. If it's either, then it's probably the power supply. Check the connections to your motors to make sure they're not shorted out. If they're OK,by frankvdh - RAMPS Electronics
Quotethetazzbot I disagree with the Fan always on concept. Different fan, I think. The hot-end fan, blowing air onto the fins of the heat sink, should be on all the time. The nozzle fan, blowing air onto the newly extruded filament, should be off for the first layer, then on as you described. Frankby frankvdh - Printing
Hi, Have you tried Cura? It can read a .AMF file, convert it to G-code, and send it directly to your printer, I think. But I think you're pretty close to the leading edge of the technology with a 5-nozzle printer. As such, it will be difficult to find anything that robustly supports it. You'll probably need to contribute to that development yourself. You will need to use some other program toby frankvdh - Slic3r
Firstly, check that your X axis motor is plugged in the same way round as the other motors. (Wrong way round will make it go backwards). In your Configuratiion.h file lines 249-260 tells your firmware what is the positive direction and where the endstops are. If you're sure the connector is right way round, change line 249 to #define INVERT_X_DIR true Check that your Z sensor (assuming you haveby frankvdh - General
Given a scale factor of over 900%, I suspect the problem is metres vs millimetres, rather than inches/mm?by frankvdh - General
Make sure that the heatsinks of the MOSFETs for the nozzle heater and bed heater aren't touching.by frankvdh - General
I don't think 1.75 is easier to melt... most heaters have plenty of excess power available. The amount of heat needed depends on the volume of filament being printed, not the diameter of the filament. I think 1.75 is more widely used, so more widely available, and most commercially made printers have 1.75mm nozzles. The downside of 1.75mm is that a small variation in diameter (which is fairlyby frankvdh - General
What type of hot end? My previous one was a Ubis, and it worked fine with retract of 4.5 My Chinese E3D V6 needs it to be just 0.5mm I guess what I'm saying is to not make big changes from what is working. Also, only change one thing at a time. I'd try reducing the extrusion amount by 10% at a time until things start getting worse. Choose the best of these and set the extrusion amount to that.by frankvdh - General
If he had a spare stepper driver, how difficult would it be to run it in parallel with the existing Z stepper? Would it be just a matter of running jumpers from the input of the Z stepper to the spare, or would he have to cut tracks? Or worse?by frankvdh - RAMPS Electronics
I suspect the answer is that the Nano is an Atmel 8-bit CPU, for which there's lots of code and knowledge regarding 3D printing, whereas the Maple mini is an ARM, which everyone is lusting after but no-one has got working well yet. And it appears that the Maple mini has been discontinued??? https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/11280 Arduino Zero?by frankvdh - Controllers
Try reducing your retraction distance... I recently switched from a Ubis hotend to a Chinese E3D V6, and had to reduce the retraction distance from 4.5mm (the Cura default) to 0.5mm. I think what's happening is that when the extruder retracts, it pulls some molten plastic back into the cool part of the heat break (the pipe connecting the heated block to the heatsink). If that plastic sits thereby frankvdh - Printing
Kickstarter metal-filled filaments -- they don't seem to be *aiming* to make conductive filament, but I guess it probably would be. Protopasta will sell you conductive PLA filament.by frankvdh - General
Hi Moustique56, If I understand correctly, your extruder doesn't work. You've swapped the motor with the Z axis, and the motor itself works. You think that the problem is in your Marlin configuration. It would help if you attached your Configuration.h and Pins.h files to the topic. 1. Have you checked that you have the extruder stepper plugged into the right connection on the board? 2. Try moviby frankvdh - General
QuoteInspecteurSpie Can anyone give me a reason not to buy this thing? It only handles 2 extruders. Controller & driver electronics are on one board... cheaper to buy in the first place (connectors are expensive), but if something goes wrong you may have to replace the whole board. My experience is that something always seems to go wrong. There's no upgrade path except to replace the wholeby frankvdh - General
Quoteenricodare for full color print you need 5 color. W B RGB 6 colours... W B RGB Transparent. There is a Palette on KickStarter which will mix 4 colours for you into a single multicoloured filament. But it will cost you $849. And I'm not sure how it syncs with the printer. And I don't know how you specify the colours.by frankvdh - Slic3r
Those heaters are pricey... 4"x4" 10W/in2 = $26 each. 8"x8" (200x200mm) is a common size, so you should be able to get those cheap off e.g. AliExpress, and use 4 of them. I think if it was me, I'd have a switch on all except the 'home' heated pad so that they could be enabled/disabled individually, so that if you're only doing an 8x8 print you can turn 3 of them off and save some electricity.by frankvdh - Reprappers
When you say "the z goes down about 10mm", I think you mean the bed goes down? The equivalent to a PrintrBot head going up? If so, that's typically caused by the probe being continually triggered. The home process is to move down quickly until Z is triggered, then move up 10, then move down slowly until Z is triggered. Try an M119 command when the probe is well clear of the bed and see if it saby frankvdh - Reprappers
Your problem is actually in Configuration.h, or maybe you're missing that entirely? Here's what's in mine at line 393 //// MOVEMENT SETTINGS #define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)by frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
If you're using autolevelling and your bed isn't level, then you will get movement in the Z axis whilst printing. So I guess your bed has (suddenly, recently) become unlevel. I'd check all your connections and axes to see if there's any play.by frankvdh - General
What do you mean your "RAMPS board resets"? The RAMPS board doesn't have a processor, so I don't think it can reset. And "when the z probe goes to move"? Surely the Z probe is physically attached to the hotend so they move together? Do you mean "when the Z axis moves"? I'd guess that your problem is that your power supply isn't strong enough to provide the required current. And maybe your MEGAby frankvdh - General
QuoteSpannerHands Approx 1000 x 1000 x 1000 object 2 mm Nozzle 1 mm Layer Height Build time: 84 hours 40 minutes (3 1/2 days LOL) Filament length: 4152431.2 mm Plastic weight: 36689.76 g (80.89 lb) Material cost: 1687.73 These figures are just boggling to me! 80lb = 36 spools of filament! One spool every 2 hours or so. Hope you got an automatic spool changer figured And 49m/hr of filament. Andby frankvdh - General