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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Support/Adaptive layers - 6 years ago
I've just spent several days working out why this item, scaled 650%, wouldn't print. Part of the issueseems to be the way the support is generated by Slic3r when Adaptive Layering is enabled. It seems that supports are always printed at the maximum layer height... this makes sense, since quality isn't critical in supports, and they're more or less vertical anyway. OTOH, it also means that duringby frankvdh - Slic3r
Re: Arduino Firmware to Control Galvanometer Drivers - 6 years ago
My saved links for Galvos... hope they're useful. I don't think any of them are particularly laser-cutter specific though.by frankvdh - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Haydns printed Mag Rods improved - 6 years ago
FYI, I just tried a simple experiment... I stuck a spare countersunk magnet (N35 I assume, 12x3mm) on the bottom of my vise, and hung a rod off it via a 10mm steel threaded ball. I then hung some weight off the other end of the rod. I gradually increased the weight until it dropped. This magnet held 542g. I then did the same thing with an N50 12x3mm flat disk magnet. Somewhat to my surprise, thisby frankvdh - Delta Machines
Re: Chosing cheap a laser diode module - 6 years ago
I don't know much about choosing lasers, and I'm in the same boat, wanting to buy one. I have learnt a bit about buying stuff from AliExpress: There is no *guarantee* of quality, no matter what is written in the product description Avoid shops that sell a huge range (electronics, shoes, clothes, gadgets, USB cables) of stuff. They're usually just drop-shippers with no idea what they're selling.by frankvdh - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Marlin vs. Repetier on a delta printer - 6 years ago
Can someone post a short summary of the conclusions from the videos?by frankvdh - Delta Machines
Re: Haydns printed Mag Rods improved - 6 years ago
Quotehercek But really, magnets suck. They are extremely heavy for the forces they can withstand. Get some good ball joints. They are very light and extremely strong. Definitely when compared to magnets. I thought it might be useful to get some idea of what numbers we're talking about. For a rod-end, I figure you need (minimum) a rod-end, M3 screw, and M3 nut. With a bit of Googling, I came upby frankvdh - Delta Machines
Re: Haydns printed Mag Rods improved - 6 years ago
An idea that just occurred to me... what about machining the balls or sockets out of ferrite? Ferrite should provide a much stronger attraction than iron? Or use magnetic spheres for the balls, and sockets machined from iron or ferrite to match? I'm thinking the sockets would be epoxied in place on the carriages & effector, and the balls on the rod-ends with maybe a 3D-printed cup to increaseby frankvdh - Delta Machines
Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 6 years ago
Quotekeeree I haven't printed it yet but it should fit my Anycubic Kossel. Might work for other mini Kossel frames with a 220mm bed. In the description is the link for Autodesk 360 so it can be modified. Please do keep us posted on how this goes... I'm intending going down this route myself.by frankvdh - General
Re: Haydns printed Mag Rods improved - 6 years ago
Quoteetfrench Quotefrankvdh However, despite all this, there just doesn't seem to be enough force holding the balls to the magnets. A small protrusion on the top of the print (e.g. a bit of drool or over-extrusion) is enough to break one of the magnetic joints apart. Any thoughts on how to make this work? I've run out of ideas and I'm seriously thinking about going back to Traxxas rod-ends Adby frankvdh - Delta Machines
Standardised hot-end connector - 6 years ago
I'm thinking about using different hot-ends and nozzles on my printer (Volcano vs E3DV6 vs Diamond), and thinking therefore about easy ways to disconnect and connect from the controller board. Has anyone gone done this route and want to share what they've done and the good points/bad points of their solution? What I have is a pair of wires 12V/4A for the heater, 2 pairs 12V/0.1A for fans, 1 pairby frankvdh - Delta Machines
Re: Haydns printed Mag Rods improved - 6 years ago
Hi guys, I'm trying to see the need for these Delrin ball mount things... can some-one explain please? While we're talking about magnets and so on, (and the main reason for posting) I've made my own ball-and-magnetic socket rod-ends using 10mm balls threaded with M4. M4 threaded rod goes neatly into 6mm carbon fibre tube, and I epoxy it in place. The balls I got were mixed quality -- some of thby frankvdh - Delta Machines
Re: reversed letters - 6 years ago
What sort of printer? If it's Cartesian, your X (or Y) axis may be wired (or configured) back-to-front.by frankvdh - General
Re: Infill percentage seems crazy - 6 years ago
Ignore the squares for now; just think of one layer. If your nozzle does 0.4mm wide strips across an area, at 2mm intervals, 20% of the area will be filled. (0.4mm/2mm = 0.2 = 20%). You can calculate the interval, given the nozzle width and infill percentage (0.4mm/0.2 = 2mm) If you're wanting 10% infill, then the calculation is 0.4/0.1 = 4mm intervals. If you're actually getting a 7mm intervalby frankvdh - Slic3r
Re: Delta printer layer shifting - 6 years ago
Do you have any lateral play in your rod-end bearings? If you do, you could try adding springs between the ends of each pair of rods to minimize that. Also, any play between the hot-end and the effector?by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Computer doesn't detect 3D printer. - 6 years ago
I think that since the computer is detecting the serial port (which physically exists on the printer's controller board) that the cable and connectors and so on are all OK. So I guess the problem must be between the serial port and the controller board's CPU. Maybe it's something to do with the configuration of that connection... what firmware do you have? Can you configure the port settings viaby frankvdh - General
Re: Computer doesn't detect 3D printer. - 6 years ago
What baud rate are you using? For Linux, it needs to be 115200 (not 250000).by frankvdh - General
Re: New delta design with fixed ballscrews - 6 years ago
Why not have the steppers rotate the screws? That way you aren't moving the mass of the motors, and the motor wiring doesn't need to move either. Motors attached to the top plate, and some 608ZZ or similar bearings in the bottom.by frankvdh - Delta Machines
Re: Experimental new infill pattern - Gyroid - 6 years ago
May be better than hex in terms of machine shaking & print speed since there's no sharp corners... I guess more of a sinusoidal motion?by frankvdh - General
Re: Printer fire hazard - 6 years ago
CaCO3 + H2SO4 -> CO2 + H2O +CaSO4 CaCO3 = chalk H2SO4 = sulfuric acid, but any strong acid will work But I take issue with @kengineer- I think you *can* be too safe. It makes sense to protect yourself against reasonable risk, but it is a waste of time, energy, and resources to protect yourself against unreasonable risks. And mechanisms to deal with one risk (fire) can introduce other risks (by frankvdh - General
Version number & error() function - 6 years ago
Hi, Is there a way to get the version identifier of the running OpenScad from within a script? That would be handy for ensuring that a new-version script doesn't get run on an old-version system. In a similar vein, an error() function would be useful, to kill a script if some variable or parameter is out-of-bounds. e.g. if ($version < "2016") { error("Requires version 2016.XX"); }by frankvdh - OpenSCAD
DIY bioplastics - 6 years ago
I stumbled across this: which describes how to make your own plastics from (starch + glycerol) or (vinegar + sugar). A quick search found numerous other pages.... I'm wondering whether anyone has tried something like this to produce 3D print filament?by frankvdh - Polymer Working Group
Re: how can i create a polygon that would encompass all this shapes? - 6 years ago
OpenScad has an offset function: The Help menu links to a "Cheat Sheet", which is a great help for finding out what is available.by frankvdh - OpenSCAD
Re: Things you should buy when starting with a 3D-Printer... 
- 6 years ago
Handle for hex-headed drill bits and screwdriver bits. Especially useful if you have Allen-key bits.by frankvdh - General
Re: Volcano - 6 years ago
I'm curious how a "Volcano" differs from an ordinary-but-large-diameter-nozzle hot-end. For example, I've been using a 0.5mm nozzle on my Chinese-clone E3d v6 hot-end, and have bought a 0.6mm and a 0.8mm nozzle to try out. Is there something wrong with using large nozzles like these (or even bigger) on an ordinary hot-end? Is the problem in getting enough heat to melt the volume of filament fastby frankvdh - Printing
Re: Things you should buy when starting with a 3D-Printer... - 6 years ago
What the OP said, plus... Digital calipers Cheap soldering iron for doing stuff with plastic plus a good controlled-temperature soldering iron for electronics Various glues: 5-minute epoxy, hot glue, polyurethane "Gorilla" glue Hair spray Polyurethane spray can Sandpaperby frankvdh - General
Re: stratasys fdm 2000 thoughts and ideas - 6 years ago
I'm very interested in this thread... I've recently bought a uPrint plus, with vague thoughts about converting to some other software. One of the downsides of the machine is the requirement to buy filament from Stratasys at 10 times the normal price. Please do keep posting updates here.by frankvdh - General
Graphene bed/pressure sensor? - 6 years ago
I noticed this instructable which describes making a putty whose conductivity varies with pressure by mixing graphene into it. Now, the putty itself isn't that interesting for 3D printing (IMHO), and graphene powder is expensive ($2-$400/gram), but I wonder whether there's an application of this new wonder-product? Google also found this paper on a graphene-based piezo pressure sensor: I'm tby frankvdh - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Hotend design question - 6 years ago
Following from @TheBoy's proposal; imagine putting the nozzle thread inside the heater cartridge. Have a (say) 10mm outside diameter, 6mm inside diameter, 4mm tall tubular heating element with an M6 thread inside for the nozzle (i.e. the nozzle threads extend right through the heater doughnut). Make the heater doughnut out of some material with good thermal mass (metal?) for temperature stabilityby frankvdh - General
Re: Another kit, another set of problems. - 6 years ago
QuoteSupraGuy Carefully set the offset as per the instructions that came with the printer. First sign, it seems to wander. The print head itself can't do that, and the probe is solidly mounted, so it should not, but it appears to do so. I can repeat the same process, and sometimes I get about ~1.5mm, and it can be up to 1.9mm. It is not dependent on t e X/Y coordinates, it's the same everywhere.by frankvdh - General
Re: Printing flexible filament... any hints? - 6 years ago
Tried the "frozen" filament... it came out of the freezer about as flexible as it went in, so it's no surprise that I had no success printing with it. But I suppose that's good news for someone who's printing flexible stuff to be used in the arctic. Now looking at modding the extruder to close off the escape routes.by frankvdh - Delta Machines