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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Best Z-axis configuration? - 8 years ago
Hello all, I have been one of the "defenders" of the cantilevered design. Both from an experience point of view and from thinking about the mechanics. Thing is, from a static point of view, the bed will hang a little from its own load. That is the nature of the cantilevered setup. But it wont matter because the added weight from the plastic part will be negligible so the hang will be fixed andby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Random moves during raster - 8 years ago
I havê a similar behavior but i am only at the first steps of troubleshooting. I have yet to confirm if the gcode is good. Think I will run yours ( gcode) and see how that works. Also running from repetier on ramps and my error lines are parallel like yoursby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Random moves during raster - 8 years ago
Did you solve this?by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
Dentist is 100% right. I will just add that it is HEIGHT we are talking about here. As long as the parts are kept close to the heated bed most ABS parts can be made. My corners as previously shown are in ABS. However - As soon as you try to make anything high like the faces shown by Dentist you will have problems. Not always, but enough so that you cannot leave a print like Dentist show and expby LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: My 350x350mm CoreXY design - 8 years ago
The accumulated knowledge on these forums and on the community as a whole is still very much lagging - So many things that has not yet been tried or qualified. For this reason I think the most important of all when building a printer, is to get about it and try out some ideas.Put some parts together.by LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: My 350x350mm CoreXY design - 8 years ago
QuoteDalius98 But I can understand your concerns about using them in extruder - a powerful motor is unlikely to skip steps when obstruction occurs, and will grind the filament. Can I just run it under a lower current, or will that have other negative aspects? And what retraction problems are we talking about? I do not know. I had the problem with a motor that was smaller then what I usually useby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: My 350x350mm CoreXY design - 8 years ago
Hey, 1) It is OK with just tensioning the belts by hand and locking them. 2) You can just google the dimensions of a e3d hotend. Or download one model on thingiverse or grabcad. About fans; If you plan to use a heated bed and print in ABS then you cannot (not optional) blow air on the extruded plastic - As such, you will only need to cool the heatsink on the hotend (the ribs) and do that withby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
You can get the plates much cheaper then 27€ - here 5.34€ Else you can 1) print corners 2) choose a design like smartcore where you don't use extrusions 3) buy 2040 profiles (6.5€ at motedis) this will allow to screw in two screws in each connection 4) try just end screws with 2020 5) buy 4040 and then you can be pretty sure it will work as per dentist description. I understand yourby LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
The thing you have to remember when working with alu extrusion and their accessories, is that it was not made for 3d printers and the load cases that a 3d printer present. Alu extrusions are used in scientific experiments and industry because it is quick to assemble, clean, can be assemble on location with no need for welding and easy to disassemble again. Before I got into 3d printing, the bby LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
Ah, that is actually cool. I have always wondered why some profiles did not feature a "normal" hole and instead these "ribs" - Now I know - It is so that it works with self cutting screws. Learning a little everyday.by LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
He is using 1.5" = 38.1 mm x 38.1 mm profiles. You are thinking about 20 x 20 profiles. Not the same thing. He is using 5/16" bolts = ~8 mm. You are (as I understand) thinking about 5mm or 6mm - or even some kind of self cutting screw. Not the same thing. I would still like to see a link to these self-cutting screws that can work in the alu profiles from Motedis. As I read their websiteby LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
1) Seriously, relax. Stop this "desperate" and "nearly killed me" rhetoric. It does not look good in writing. 2) It is not about if it is free of not. It is about if it is the best solution. If you read my reply you will see that I am not so convinced that for 2020 profiles the end screws will be enough for the stability you need. Even with perfect cuts. I do not know this for a fact. Butby LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
QuoteTreito Thanks for the answer, bu now for the third time: The company cuts the extrudes to length and they offer the screws designed for this connection even self-cutting. Sorry, I wrote this too often in this thread. Uhm... Okay... Maybe I was unclear when I wrote that: Quote"... you (Treito) can get the company to cut then I think that would be worth trying out." I meant to say that ifby LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
My bed is 200x200 (MK3 with aluplate integrated)by LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
Hey, I use a screwed in connection (through the profile holes) on the upper parts of my newest printer. It is a fine solution and more space economic which is why I used it. To obtain a strong connection it requires perfect cuts of the alu profile because the stability is dependent on full face contact with the alu. I am not able to get that with my hand-saw but if you (Treito) can get the compaby LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Connecting extruded aluminium? - 8 years ago
Do you have a working printer? You can print your own corners. You can see how mine looks HERE. It requires a little thinking when designing your corners because they have to be really big to get a decent strength and rigidity. You can't just copy a steel bracket and print that.by LarsK - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: CoreXY and heated bed. How many guidance points? - 8 years ago
3 is the ideal in theory but plenty of designs out there that uses 4 without seemingly big problems. If you have a rigid bed and don't force the bed to twist then I think it is OK. Did you review this thread Also you may find it helpful to see this .zip file with a number of photos from various coreXY designs - It was a compilation I made to jerk my thinking about belt paths but it can maybeby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Dual laser software? - 8 years ago
Hey, If you have insufficient cooling so that you can't run your diode in steady state ( constant temperature) then you must anticipate the laser beam/spot to change with the temperature. I see a very visible and distinct change in my burn spot with just a 20 deg C span. My guess is that if you want to raster with high precision you need to get within ~5 deg variation. This is something youby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Dual laser software? - 8 years ago
The result would be 100% power - why would you want to do that ? To increase laser lifetime? I looked into multiple lasers some time ago - see this - as can be seen I abandoned it, as it sounded very difficult to get lasers focusing on the same spot. Now that my laser is actually running I have made my own experience which confirms this, it is simply not feasible ( atleast without cnc parts).by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Aixiz acrylic lens? - 8 years ago
Quoteo_lampe Can I use my Alu-heatbed to test CW-power? Aiming the laser close to the thermistor and see how far the temp rises? -Olaf I thought about it with a water cooled plate. Water is better (imo) because you can measure the flow and the temperature rise. With alu exposed to air you don't know the heat loss to the surroundings. I abandoned it because I am pretty sure it needs to be caliby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Adjust Laser power according to effective speed in Marlin. - 8 years ago
Hey, what diode is that?by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Aixiz acrylic lens? - 8 years ago
The NDB7875 has an slope efficiency of 1 - 2 W/A. So 1W=1A does not hold at all. Same story (different slope) for my Osram diode. It is a real headache and I am not sure how to handle it. The slope efficiency also changes with the power. What I do, is follow the readings made by this guy and matches his currents. So he got 1.6W @ 1.1A. It is my impression that if you want to push the liby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Can a smooth rods only towers printer be stable enough? - 8 years ago
Oh. This is a hobby. I also make a lot of stuff just because it looks interesting/ fun to do. Just think careful about why your doing it and don't forget to have fun hope that negates the somewhat negative wibe of beforeby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Can a smooth rods only towers printer be stable enough? - 8 years ago
The "calculate deflection" discussion is highly speculative until somebody put some straingauges or others means of measuring the deflection, as to verify which approximations holds and what is important and not. Obviously the longer or the thinner is bad, but when is it too bad? You are now going to make a lot of modifications to a printer that you have not printed a single piece with? Howby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: almost working - 8 years ago
Hey,0.1mm is too thin. Stick to your 0.4. That's a great size. There is a ton of threads and opinions about 3d design . inventor is a solid program. I use sw. All the other stuff is doable and people are more or less doing it - the exception is the dremel, that will not work.removing material is an entirely different story then adding it.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Vibration dampers? - 8 years ago
QuoteVDX ... in Marin4Due I have something like 3000 acceleration and 20 jerk on a much 'stiffer' system with 400mm/s what's performing pretty well ... was much slower when tested on a Mendel-frame. For damping fast moving systems you'll need more mass in the frames ... for damping foot fall sound (for ultra precise moving) I used big/hards resin-dampers on the floor, a steel frame on them, mediby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Vibration dampers? - 8 years ago
Hello all, Woa, floating printer. That sounds pretty awesome - But I can only imagine that the entire printer starts oscillating after some time? The same reason why you want both dampeners and springs in a system. You are all talking about noise, but part of my motivation is the vibration from the sharp accelerations(?) To me it seems like the sharp stops are getting reflected back and fortby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Aixiz acrylic lens? - 8 years ago
Just getting back to my design and how not to do things The 1 ohm resistor burned out after some time... Another testament to my none existing electronic skills. Obviously you can't have 1 amp at 4V continuously on a normal resistor... I am seeing to putting the hall current sensor now. No progress on controlling the temperature on my peltier. I left it running some time between two cuts anby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Vibration dampers? - 8 years ago
Hey, For some times I have been wanting to make some vibration dampers for my printers but have kept putting it off... On slow printers it doesn't matter but on my new printer it does as it can print relatively fast (I am maxing out the RAMPS/Arduino processing power @16 microsteps so how fast it actually is, I have no idea). Now the printer stands on bubble plastic (yes) and as ridiculous as iby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: corexy with 2 or 3 direct drive extruders - 8 years ago
Hey, well, it is better to buy an overall good printer then to buy a few very good components and go cheap on the rest. But it is a lot of money for a very expensive hotend and then I think the mechanics should follow. I think you should spend some money on your existing printer first - In my opinion you need it to print ABS if you wanna print parts for your new printer.by LarsK - CoreXY Machines