Show all posts by user
Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: corexy with 2 or 3 direct drive extruders - 8 years ago
To build 400x400 with 3 extruders you will need a printer with outer dimensions ranging from 600x600 (if you are very good) to 800 x 800. Smooth rods are being abandoned for CoreXY. They are inferior for a number of reasons. You should use linear guides instead as they are particularly good on the CoreXY due to how the load works (no twisting) and they are lighter. If you despite this stick tby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: corexy with 2 or 3 direct drive extruders - 8 years ago
It really depends a lot about what kind of bed size you are going for. If you want to make a huge print size then I think the CoreXY may still be superior. But really, there are few solid experiences. The best "attack" on the CoreXY I have ever read, is from Alan Richard and I repost his objections here, it is from this thread. I particular like his proposal in the last post with putting a motoby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: First test print failure - 8 years ago
Actually it looks like the cube is leaning outwards? What is the dimensions at bottom versus top?by LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: First test print failure - 8 years ago
If this is your first first print then it can also just be some weird first run problem that you will never see again. Try to print it again and see if it does the same thing... If it does, then increase the hot-end temperature by 5 C.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: almost working - 8 years ago
Hey, Thanks Nebbian - Learning everyday. Actually I am relearning. I realize now that I used that setting back when I made my own Delta and then I have gone and forgotten all about it @ DrDoggy, at the risk of getting another telling off from Nebbian - You don't actually need there to be any extrusion everywhere on the first layer. Assuming your Delta is badly calibrated and you don't haveby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Need help extruder jamming - 8 years ago
Quotemiked63017 So I think it was a combination of of the driver current being too high and too many steps per mm on the extrude. Though I have no idea how this would have changed from the weeks of good printing it did? Either way once I turned down the pot on the extruder driver the jams were gone, it did click alot so I turned down the steps per mm to 90.5 from 106.5 and things seem a lot bettby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Aixiz acrylic lens? - 8 years ago
Hey, the driver I am using, that Chinese one, also supports TTL. Meaning it is turned on or off with a logic pin. I thought that if I called M42 P S I could set the frequency - But that does not work. Either I call with 255 or it does not turn on, I think maybe the switching is too fast for the driver... I think maybe it works if done like VDX describes, using the step from the extruder pin. Nby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Aixiz acrylic lens? - 8 years ago
Hey, the thermistor is not connected yet ( other then raw temperature). I want to see if I can change the temperature output to negative ( multiply by -1) on the thermistor, that will trick the firmware into using the peltier as a heater while it will actually cool. Not done yet. My first real task is to cut napkins for this year Christmas dinner. Instead of my wife sewing I laser cut. Takes somby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Aixiz acrylic lens? - 8 years ago
I do the Peltier thing in my setup. It is 2x 2020 profiles held together, in the center of the 2020 I have water flowing. The water is pumped by a car sprinkler pump (12V connected to RAMPS as the fan). Then a thin alu plate to distribute the heat and a 12V Peltier element and finally a big block of alu with the diode directly integrated into. I have my temp probe very close to the diode (butby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: almost working - 8 years ago
Quotenebbian QuoteLarsK (1) Increase the Z-length by 0.2 (printer settings). and set the first layer bed height to 0.3 (slicer settings). This will push your nozzle closer to the bed. Do this even if you think you have perfect bed alignment. This will "trick" the printer into really pushing the first print layers onto the bed. Have a look at these images to understand. To a very rough firstby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Need help extruder jamming - 8 years ago
You need to provide more information, in particular: 1) Picture of entire printer with the extruder visible 2) Closeup picture of the hotend 3) Information about your temperature. If you are using Repetier host you can look at the upper left and select "temperature curve" and then screenshot that. Or just post the numbers here. 4) Information about type of plastic (PLA or ABS) 5) After a jam, cby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
QuoteVDX ... when I was a child I've used heater wires out from old flat-irons - a long wire, embedded in ceramic beads ... My father used glass tubes filled with quicksilver in the '70er years to conduct heat ... My last 'non-air' transfer-heater was filled with Galinstan (a pretty expensive, but less toxic replacement for quicksilver) - boils at >1300 degC ... But you can try with simplyby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Trueing bed to towers proves quite difficult; Is it essential? - 8 years ago
Injection molding is not like CNC. Even for the best and despite very sophisticated simulation software it is still to some degree trial and error approach if you want a mold to hit exact dimensions. It is not unlikely that the time pressure the Overlord was under, did not allow for those last adjustment. HOWEVER, if this was true, then I would expect there to be more experiences about this onby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: almost working - 8 years ago
QuoteDrDoggy bed is metal/steel, I have no experience with that, so I will let someone else be smart about if you should continue with Kapton tape or no. QuoteDrDoggy should i get other fan, also if i understand it should point at tip of nozzel , or top layer of plastic, but not at bed? You should under no circumstance be blowing anything at your print or your bed or you nozzle tip. The onlby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
Quotepatrickrio ... When I think about it, the cheapest small heating devices that are everywhere in Brazil are hair blow dryers and electric hair straighteners. As I remember from my time there, every single woman has a box full of this equipment and probably has an old one lying around somewhere. I bet one of those "low frizz" hair dryers would be great because you could have several lower heatby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: almost working - 8 years ago
I should also mention that when doing the model you are showing in the photos, you don't need to let it finish. As soon as any corner lifts from the bed you might as well stop and start over. That model you are doing should be able to print flawless if you have a heated bed. And also 10 degree higher room temperature can make the difference. Yes.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: almost working - 8 years ago
QuoteDrDoggy only one fan.... got a pic so i can see what i need to get? first layer prints fine, im using kapton tape and hot glue until i get some hairspray, works ok but leaves sticky layer on bottom which i dont mind for now since i pull first layer off anyway, but watch as it builds up, you will see it gradually warp. first two pics you can see the shadow where it starts to curl, in third pby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist QuoteLarsK Maybe I got it wrong - It is my understanding that the wire temperature calculated is what I would get if suspended in air (?). The heat-transfer should be magnitudes higher in the oil. Even if that is the free-air temperature and the heat transfer to oil is very rapid, I would be concerned about anything that gets hot enough to boil/burn the oil. You don'by LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
Maybe I got it wrong - It is my understanding that the wire temperature calculated is what I would get if suspended in air (?). The heat-transfer should be magnitudes higher in the oil. The wire will be 10.16 Ohms / Foot. Mine will be almost 4 feet so that is 40.64 Ohm total resistance. At 127V that is 3.125A or 396.875W (as calculated with the real NiCr A numbers) For estimates I am usingby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: almost working - 8 years ago
You don't need heated-enclosure for normal ABS printing. (1) Increase the Z-length by 0.2 (printer settings). and set the first layer bed height to 0.3 (slicer settings). This will push your nozzle closer to the bed. Do this even if you think you have perfect bed alignment. This will "trick" the printer into really pushing the first print layers onto the bed. Have a look at these images toby LarsK - Delta Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist The Stratasys machine that the two heaters came from had two 5.25" fans blowing air over them, so I don't think that a little air movement inside is going to cause any print problems. I wouldn't direct the air flow at the print, but in a closed box the air is going to move if there's a fan. It doesn't seem to hurt Stratasys any... Sounds like the right thing to do. Wilby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
Turns out I can buy 10 m NiChrome wire (N80/20) for just ~4$ Here in Brazil the houses rarely have running hot water, instead they use electrical water heaters directly mounted as shower heads. Inside those heaters they use NiChrome wire, so there is an aftermarket for it. Now, that sorted out. Next thing - How to install it. For safety reasons I want to avoid having anything in my printer tby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Thermocouples vs. RAMPS - 8 years ago
I spent a lot of time trying to get thermocouples to work as my bed temperature probe on my Delta. I (practically) never succeeded. When the printer was off it was all fine but as soon as I started the printer it did as you describe. Jumped around entirely erratic. I actually spent a lot of time making hardware filters and eventually I connected an Arduino to run some more exotic filtering on thby LarsK - Controllers
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
I think turbulence is not done because the forced convection (heat transfer forced by air flows) would be bigger at the outer walls, especially on complicated shapes. Even as the heated chamber is 70C the plastic exiting the nozzle is still significantly hotter so it would result in uneven cooling. If it is an advantage to have 70C air blowing on the parts, then I think the better option wouldby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
Quotepen25 i am taking it you want radiant heat to prevent any air currents or at least reduce it. remember heat rises so you can probably get an electric space heater that has the nichrome wire. take an aluminum plate and mount the nichrome on the bottom. use a thermister and relay to turn the heat plate on and off. 1500 watts should be plenty as it will heat a 10'x10' room to 80*f with no problby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: 1mx1m hot plate? - 8 years ago
It would be nice if you two could post some pictures of where you are in the build process. Very interesting to see.by LarsK - Mechanics
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
Right. I am looking at this heating element. It is meant to go in an oven. Will the heat radiation be too extreme to control or what do people think?by LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 9 years ago
hah, those things don't sell a lot here in Brazil. I get where you are going though. Sure that must be something like it here. AC current it is. I don't want to bother with too much insulation. Rather put higher power on then.by LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 9 years ago
Hello, I am looking for someone with experience from heat enclosures. I would like to make a heat enclosure using acrylic panels. My motors will be enclosed in niches as shown in the photos below (so they will be outside). Ideally I would like to have up-to 70 C in the build area. My question is: - What is typically heater power required (aka, how many watts do I need to heat and keep warby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Re: Crossing belts or 2 level belts? - 9 years ago
I run mine as the original CoreXY ( ). This allows me to run the belts inside the 2020 profile: I have not tried the two plane methods. I honestly do not think it makes any difference one way or the other. Belt length remains the same and you are never ever going close a fraction of the belt lifetime anyways. Oh - Forgot to put in the point - The point being - Don't let your design be dictatby LarsK - CoreXY Machines