I should add that when I asked you to lower the Z height by 0.3 it had nothing to do with calibration. It is just a dirty trick to level out the errors. The nozzle does not go lower then the bed - Bue due to slack in the system you can push it onto the bed so that the software thinks that it is 0.3 mm lower then what it actually is. As such; Lowering the nozzle lower then when it is perfect inby LarsK - Delta Machines
Essentially the max z height should only be set to align the center (G1 X0 Y0 ) height. The center is independent of your geometric errors. On a delta the only time the 3 carriages moves the same is when you are in the center and moving straight down/up. When they all move the same down then it doesn't matter how wrong you have the printer radius and diagonal rod length. The only thing thatby LarsK - Delta Machines
It has two names. One in the configuration.h and a different one in EEPROM. It is OK if you have been recompiling - It is faster to set in the EEPROM but if you don't note down your changes you may lose them if changing something.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe QuoteLarsK what happens when you call G1 X55 Y0 Z10 Is that a real command? Without Fxxxx parameter, what will be the speed? -Olaf The last set speed of the printer will be used when not including fby LarsK - Delta Machines
That makes no sense. If it is a problem with diagonal rod length it should be increasing the length that works.hmm strange :/ Still, if your misalignments are less then 0.5 mm then you can now set the bed height so that the nozzle is too low. Simply I want you to increase MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS by 0.3. That means it won't exteude plastic on the first layer in some places while it will in others.by LarsK - Delta Machines
You need to stop doing random stuff and focus on your issues. This means that you for now need to stop calling G29 because auto bed leveling is not your issue nor your solution. Further, when I instruct you to execute a series of codes it does not help that you just do a single command. If you are unable to do the entire code that I gave you, then we need to figure out why you are unable to doby LarsK - Delta Machines
Change diagonal rod length from 250 to 253 Redo the test and see if that improves. It should bring you so close that you can print with it.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Hello, please run the below code and report back the z probe results. Based on those numbers I will be able to tell you what is going on. Please be sure to explain if the Z probe does not seem to probe correctly at all point. That is, if it triggers and moves on without actually ever touching the bed. G1 x0 y0 z10 G30 G1 x55 F2400 G30 G1 X38.9 Y38.9 G30 G1 X0 Y55 G30 G1 X-38.9 Y38.9 G30 G1by LarsK - Delta Machines
I don't understand if you have a z probe or not. Please post a photo of your entire printer and one close up of your current z probe.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Can you get a microswitch like this: Do you have a soldering iron? Do you have 2 m small cable that we can use to connect it to the RAMPS? Do you have some small pin connectors? Like any of these: Do you have some superglue (Locktite glue)? If yes to all this then I will instruct you how to make a Z-probe and you will be OK soon.by LarsK - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK Something is wrong mechanically or in the wiring or your z probe was not triggered when going to z0. Redo the test with your finger triggering you z probe. Post a photo of your Z probe. Put a multimeter with continuity test on the end stop and see if that triggers. Please address the above first. After your Z-probe is working we can easily solve the problem with not flat movement.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Just need the photo with the nozzle at X40 now.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Something is wrong mechanically or in the wiring or your z probe was not triggered when going to z0. Redo the test with your finger triggering you z probe. Post a photo of your Z probe. Put a multimeter with continuity test on the end stop and see if that triggers.by LarsK - Delta Machines
You have connected the Z proble wrong or set the settings for the z probe wrong. Issue the following command: M119 Now manually with your finger activate the Z probe and while holding that issue M119 again. Report your findings.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Ok, for the time being lets stick to Marlin. If below does not work out we go back to repetier. Please ensure that you implement the correction from above to your firmware and re-flash. I am refering to the 22 mm to 18 mm. Then issue the command M502 M501 Then recalibrate the Z height for the center (ignore the problem with the nozzle lifting at the sides for now). When calibrating thby LarsK - Delta Machines
I forgot you also need to change the following in the firmware: #define XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION 200 #define XYZ_MICROSTEPS 16 #define XYZ_BELT_PITCH 2 #define XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH 40 #define XYZ_STEPS (XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION * XYZ_MICROSTEPS / double(XYZ_BELT_PITCH) / double(XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH))by LarsK - Delta Machines
Two things; a) In your config: // Horizontal offset of the universal joints on the carriages. #define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 22 // mm Please change that to: // Horizontal offset of the universal joints on the carriages. #define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 18 // mm Upload that and ensure that it gets loaded to EEPROM. I am not familiar with Marlin so I do not know if that happens automaticallyby LarsK - Delta Machines
Congratulations on finishing your printer and getting a very good start with printing. That eagle looks nice. You just need to get the nozzle a little closer to the heatbed and you are under-extruding a little. Try to increase the Z-height by 0.2 and increase the flowrate to 115 and that should solve it. Later you should recalibrate your extruder to verify that it extrudes the correct length oby LarsK - Delta Machines
Good morning, Please post the following: 1) Your Configuration.h - Make sure that you implement all changes that you only made to EEPROM to that file [1] 2) A picture of your entire printer 3) A picture of your RAMPS looking down on it from a top view 4) Do the following commands: G28 G1 X0 Y0 Z23.85 After you do those commands place a SD card (the normal big type) either under the nozby LarsK - Delta Machines
Dear all, I am ready to install electronics in my new laser setup. It is the 1.6W Nichia module ( Datasheet ). The laser is water cooled and the frame is a CoreXY driven by RAMPS / Mega setup. That is moving and looking good. The electronics to control the laser is a concern. I was hoping for some inputs regarding my driver and controlling it. I have the Walye Power A10 with TTL modulatioby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Good morning, Actually I think I liked the first iteration better. With this new one you don't have the best load paths. In particular I would go back to just one direction of tension and I liked the grooved bearings pushing sideways. I think the twisting can be fixed by two things: 1) Doubling the material thickness and making supporting ribs 2) The groved bearings pushing on the backside - Wby LarsK - Delta Machines
I like it. Especially I like how you use the two bolts to tension the part together. You could even use longer screws and put two small springs on the other side to apply consistent force. That would absorb variations etc. I have also played some with alternative ways of mounting on the extrusions. My experience is that I look too much at the minature bearing and use that as reference for sizby LarsK - Delta Machines
Ok, some things is still unclear - when it starts skipping - does it then entirely stop putting out plastic or does it still put out a little? Can you pause it for a minute and then if you start again it will work just fine for a little while ? Do you have cooling on the ramps board ( the electronic s)?by LarsK - Delta Machines
QuoteMarkIngle It reverses through the whole print of the cube. the faster the print speed the more it reverses. It does the same thing at 200C. I am gonna give my nozzle and heat end a good cleaning to see what that gives. Currently I am printing a 7mm/s to get good prints with the extruder acting like it is. How fast should I expect to be able to print? 50 mm/s should be no problem. Alsoby LarsK - Delta Machines
That is stepper missing steps. If it can exteude other times it is not for lag of power but because of jamming in the hotend or wrong bed height ( nozzle too close to bed with no space to exteude plastic. Can it exteude other times? Is it only when printing first layer? 220 is too high for pla and can give problems. Try 200.by LarsK - Delta Machines
Ok, be sure to try and change retraction length to 0.5 or even just 0. How does your cooling block on your hotend feel? Down at the part closest to the heating block it should be warm to the touch but you should still be able to rest your index finger on it without it being "very" uncomfortable. In conjunction to what DC says you can try to take away the nozzle and let it extrude just througby LarsK - Delta Machines
Your printer looks very nice. It seems you have access to a machine shop so I recommend you consider drilling up your nozzle to 0.5 or 0.6 mm. It makes a big difference for the force required to push material through and you can buy a new nozzle very cheap for later replacement. Also already now set your retraction length to 0.5 mm and speed 20. Now, lets talk about your hotend. Is it with tby LarsK - Delta Machines
Hello, Can you post a picture of your entire printer and a photo closeup of the effector / hotend And inform the following: Type of filament (PLA or ABS), size of filament (1.75 or 3), temperature you run with and if you can push material through manually (with the bowden disconnected)by LarsK - Delta Machines
There is no standard way or approach to do this. It is not part of the stepper concept that there is any feedback (like there is on many other systems). There are no industrial components or approaches that can do this. It is an interesting concept for a hack. I just tried to connect a stepper to my oscilloscope. To me it seems near impossible without calibration (or modelling of the stepper)by LarsK - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors