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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: List of Small 3D Printers - 9 years ago
Hi Everyone, I made a comparison spreadsheet. Here is the link. Everyone can edit for now, and when it is done, I will lock it.by patrickrio - General
Re: New print surface material? - 9 years ago
I need a 215x215mm piece...... is that available? Is it available in different colors? I need as light as possible, white if available..... Testing with a Ormerud IR sensor....by patrickrio - General
Re: Duet 0.8.5 with E3D PT100 sensor+amplifier ? - 9 years ago
When I said I was using that breakout board for another project, I REALLY meant other project. I used the PT100 RTD and the MAX38165 in an induction heated coffee roaster prototype.... Not a 3D printer so it was used with a Teensy and the standard Arduino PID Library and Tuner. Power was right from the appropriate pins on the Teensy which Is also available on the Duet... Should be really easyby patrickrio - Controllers
Re: Duet 0.8.5 with E3D PT100 sensor+amplifier ? - 9 years ago
Hi, I used one of these digital breakout boards for another project I needed PT100 breakout capability for: It works with 4 wire RTD sensors, which improves accuracy quite a bit.... this board will also work with 2 and 3 wire RTDs which I also did for comparison (also compared to a 4 wire RTD temperature standard sensor...). The 4 wire RTD sensors were the most accurate sensors I tested, butby patrickrio - Controllers
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm - 9 years ago
Yes, it appears that is correct about using the multimeter for setting the manual pots.... Not an expert on the manual setup since mine are set with software where you just choose your amperage with a typed number. The original designer, when using the original dv8825 shield design, says you can set it up to as high as 1.5amps without cooling and heatsink. They say that at that setting, the drivby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: fan mount for Duet 0.6? - 9 years ago
With a bottom mounted blower, You can go enormous. There are blowers on amazon that will turn the case into a wind tunnel. Changing my case to use a bottom blower would take 5 minutes in tinkercad.comby patrickrio - Controllers
Re: Which controller? - 9 years ago
I use 24v with the Duet. Works fantastic.by patrickrio - Controllers
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm - 9 years ago
Understand that I came late to the 3d printer party, and skipped Ramps and 8bit relatives with removable driver completely. I exclusively use 32bit controller boards with integrated drivers and software amperage control. So I am not an expert on your situation by practice, only by reading.....However, I have read a lot so here is what I have: You are adjusting the Amperage, not Voltage. Your volby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Electron 3D - Sixth Generation Prusa i3 Anyone? - 9 years ago
The wires for the thermistors for both the extruder and heated bed can be either positive or negative. no difference. The wiring for the heated bed will have a definite positive and negative if you have LED indicator lights in the circuit. You will know if it is wired backwards if the LEDs do not light up when heating. The wiring for the extruder heater can be wired either way.by patrickrio - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Which controller? - 9 years ago
See! here is dc42 providing that awesome support again. Beginners or those new should take notice... He really likes Duet, but he is giving very honest information about other products too and encourages you to choose what is best for you. What he won't tell you (because he is a modest, honest and proper Englishman..) is that HE and his software work and support are the reason Duet is a best choby patrickrio - Controllers
Re: fan mount for Duet 0.6? - 9 years ago
You could use a larger blower too, to get more air. However, I have the 24v blower, and it seems very sufficient in this size. Particularly good with the blower is the fact that there is air flow both above and below the board... cools the drivers from the bottom where they are supposed to be cooled. Going to a larger blower, you end up reducing the room for wires entering the case. If you coulby patrickrio - Controllers
Re: Best place to purchase Filament - 9 years ago
I have been buying at fox smart (usa buying): Foxsmart filament $18/kg filament that is laser calibrated for consistent diameter. Shipping in US is a flat fee of $3 no matter how many rolls you order. Colors are great, printing is great, no smelly dies in PLA. My friend who has just about every brand of filament was surprised at how well this stuff worked considering how cheap it is.by patrickrio - General
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm - 9 years ago
1. Check to make sure that your movement is not binding at a certain part of the belt pull. Pull on the belt in the same direction as the motor would to check this. Binding will cause a step skip, and with the weight of the printbed, a step skip becomes a cascade of step skips resulting in the "drop". 2. Increase the power to the z motor. This "drop" is a sign that the power is not sufficient toby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Which controller? - 9 years ago
I have both the DUET and MKS SBASE smoothieboard clone. My SBASE is the 1.0 version that has faulty temperature control that I have not yet reworked... if you go this route make sure to get v1.1 or v1.2 of the board or it will have the same problem. I currently use the DUET as my daily driver. I have a custom design CoreXY printer. Now, a comparison (Please note that prices are for USA east coasby patrickrio - Controllers
Re: fan mount for Duet 0.6? - 9 years ago
Hi Olaf, I designed this for my printer: Reprap.org duet case with fan If I was to do another version, I would make the little tabs that hold the lid slightly larger, and I would increase the dimension of the lid in the long direction by 0.5mmby patrickrio - Controllers
Re: Extruder drive/Cold End Suggestions with higher force capability? - 9 years ago
I would like to be able to extrude very thick and fat lines with the 1.2mm nozzle at as high of speed as possible, to make large low resolution prints at high speed.by patrickrio - General
Re: Extruder drive/Cold End Suggestions with higher force capability? - 9 years ago
I am using a custom hot end that has the heated filament path going the long way through the block, like the Volcano. It seems to be able to melt much faster than I can extrude. I may have increased surface tension holding back my speed a bit though. Currently I am using a Peek heatbreak with teflon liner. I will hopefully someday switch to a metal or ceramic path from teflon. When doing max extby patrickrio - General
Extruder drive/Cold End Suggestions with higher force capability? - 9 years ago
I have an ungeared 1.75mm Bowden setup with a 78oz-in 400 step motor that is very similar mechanically to this: I have a short 35cm bowden tube. I get a maximum print speed of about 200mm/sec at 0.4mm nozzle size before it gets difficult to tune my extruder mechanicals. The best I have done is 250mm/sec with extreme tweeking to keep the mechanicals from slipping or skipping steps and/or chewinby patrickrio - General
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
I am also VERY SURE that you will not get the extrusion speed out of that setup that you need for a large printer like yours. The Core XY movement is capable of very fast and accurate extrusion, but you will be limited by that extruder setup. Edit: I created a new topic asking for help on this issue HERE: General forum Extruder Question Link As I said before, I have essentially the same mechaniby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
Here is a picture of the back of my carriage, showing the clamps. You can also see the micro switch used for X limit. My infra red Z probe and bed level tester is not attached, nor are the wires attached to the micro switch at the moment. Screws used are all 2 mm size and you can see a bit of my hand, so you can tell that my carriage assembly is quite small.by patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
sorry, I do not have pictures of how my carriage clamps belts... but I actually used one continuous belt for mine, and just clamped the center of that belt solidly in place at the nozzle to turn it into two belts. On the other side of the nozzle carriage block, the two cut ends of the belts are clamped by circling a 2mm bolt shaft each, interlocking the teeth on the belt and clamping together. Myby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
By the way, you were looking for recommendations on belt width on another thread. I am using 6mm width on mine and it is way stronger than I need. 12mm or 10 mm will for sure be more than you need. I am pretty sure that even 6mm will be more than you need.by patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
I am using 400 step 78 oz inch 1.8 amp nema 17 motors, and I am only using .8 amps at 24v... I am almost certain that these would have enough power for your setup too... especially if you turned them up in amps. Then you can use standard control boards and drivers... I highly recommend the Duet board as it has a wonderful ethernet interface that I operate with my telephone. I bought them on ebayby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
For your carriage design, it looks like the back part of your U shaped mount that attaches to the guide block is not connected to anything. I think you could either safely convert that to an L and remove the back, or make it into an O that goes all the way around the beam for added rigidity. The U appears to have extra weight for no reason. My carriage forms an O, but I really needed the added riby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
Yes, WD-40 is a cleaner... but, some of the Chinese manufacturers still recommend it as a lubricant. I don't agree and believe the best choice is the recommendation by Hiwin for general use in non sealed bearings-white lithium soap grease. It is long lasting, and if applied liberally, protects against dust. mixing WD-40 with the grease makes a huge mess that is hard to fix.by patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Stuck with Z axis printing directions - 9 years ago
Wow. I am impressed with this build... very rustic. Can you build this with just basic hand tools and a drill???? Where is your Z endstop physically located? top or bottom? Are you using a bed sensor instead of an z endstop? Knowing this will be necessary for someone to help you.....by patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
since we have not been able to connect via voice, I will attempt to give you some of my design suggestions based on my build experience. 1. you have the x axis block facing downward, just like I do, which I think is the correct choice. HOWEVER, you should think about how you are going to locate the filament and nozzle assembly. I think you will find that having the nozzle close to one side of thby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
I live in New York City. I think we can call each other for free computer to telephone. my number is 206-660-5558 (legacy washington state cell phone number) You can call any time this afternoon.by patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building a No Name big printer - 9 years ago
This is very similar to my design. If you have any questions about using the linear guides, please don't hesitate to ask. I actually have several suggestions on your brackets and guide placement that I think will improve your design, based on my build experiences. It will be easier if we can real time talk or chat. Where are you located?by patrickrio - CoreXY Machines
Re: Duet Controlled CoreXY - latest Firmware and Install Proceedure? - 9 years ago
Hi... This is probably a question for DC42, but if someone else knows the answer, please let me know.... I am now finally getting around to setting up the Z axis probe. I am using the IR proximity sensor from the omerud and want to use it for auto bed compensation. I have the whole bed covered in white masking tape which seems to work as well as blue tape for adhesion. 1. Ideally, how far awayby patrickrio - CoreXY Machines