Ermm, sorry about that, I'd completely forgotten. I've just sent the request. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Maybe... eventuallyby Moriquendi - General
Huh, I didn't even know they'd cloned the v2.75. They must have bought one and reverse engineered it because the board files are not online and have never been shared. Still, if it's worth stealing it must be good right? The only thing that really bugs me is that they still call it a "PrecisionPiezo". Idrisby Moriquendi - General
That shouldn't be a problem, there should be enough clearance. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
I'm afraid the capacitors are only rated to 16v so you'd need to replace them too and at that point you may as well just run a voltage regulator to provide 5v. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
24v will push too much current through the LEDs, 12v is OK 5v is better. The digital output is open drain so the piezo PCB only pulls the signal line low though you should verify the voltage of the signal pin before plugging it into your controller. The analogue output can be as high as V+. Triangle labs are selling clones of a very early version of the board, not a rep. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
It can be difficult to break through the desire to pay the lowest possible price. However, there are many people who see that paying the additional cost and buying from the creator is overall a better deal. Not only because the support is almost always better but also because it encourages innovation and progress. @Bowzee, I have not published a schematic of the latest design, what is it you wanby Moriquendi - General
Assuming you're talking about an upcoming Duet3? As far as I know the Duet3 is quite a different product than the DuetWifi and aimed at different segments, they're complimentary rather than it being a straight upgrade. As I understand it the Duet3 is aimed at larger, more complex machines with more complex requirements. I whole-heartedly advocate getting a Duet2 for any domestic printer, you willby Moriquendi - General
Excellent, glad to hear it. To answer your question, the A pins output an analogue signal which bypasses the onboard trigger circuit, you can plug this into an analogue capable pin on your controller (currently only tested on the Duet) and set the sensitivity using G-code or firmware. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
I need to update the manual which still refers to the v2.75 board. For now, use the D pins, they will behave the same way as the v2.75 manual expects. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Hi Simon, Can you give me some more information please? What controller board are you using? What printer? Which pins do you have connected on the Universal PCB? There are two sets of pins, those marked D and another set marked A. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Ok, This is starting to make much more sense now. I think you've got something of a perfect storm of conditions going on. Additional mass on the hotend adds to the inertia below the Orion. When the printer starts moving (whether the head moves or not) there will be a vibration, this vibration is transmitted through the Orion and with more mass on the hotend it tends to produce a larger signal iby Moriquendi - General
The most likely solution is to slightly loosed the four assembly screws, start with half a turn each and test again. If you could edit your posts to add information rather than making a new post each time it would help to keep the thread easier and clearer to read. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
It will swing above and below 0.5vcc dependant on which way the board is flexed. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
The at rest signal will be ~0.5VCC. The output signal is not just the piezo voltage but buffered, it's also filtered. You probably could get the output as high as VCC if you hit the piezo really hard but normal range is much lower. For example, on my printer with the duet, the threshold is set 5 points above the at rest reading which I think is a trigger threshold of 16mV above the at rest readinby Moriquendi - General
Yes, Filastruder are now stocking PrecisionPiezo parts in the US. Both the Universal PCB and the Orion have moved to a new revision. The major change, apart from the snazzy matt black PCBs, is the addition of an analogue output in addition to the digital output. The digital output functions in exactly the same way as the old output, you adjust the triger threshold using the potentiometer on theby Moriquendi - General
You don't need an online calculator. Power = (Voltage Squared) / (Resistance) Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Is that deviation across the bed or deviation in one place? What height do you probe from? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
You're not being dense, it's not straight forward. You're correct, the heatsink does mount at 45 degrees to the other parts. The bowden tubes go through all three pieces and into the heatsink. I don't know about clones but the original Chimera heatsinks use embedded collets, nothing to unscrew. The bottom of the mount flexes, if you look at the stl layer by layer you'll see that parts of it areby Moriquendi - General
That's correct, Orion PCB gets sandwitched between the two plastic parts. You'll need brass threaded inserts for the assembly screw holes and the mounting screw holes. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
The mount is available here, there isn't much demand for it so I don't offer it as a kit. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
The Orion behaves like a normally open mechanical switch. Your settings are almost correct, you need to make these changes: M558 P8 I1 R0.4 H5 F720 T6000 You might also like to reduce the probe height and speed M558 P8 I1 R0.4 H2 F400 T6000 Idrisby Moriquendi - General
You're correct, this mount uses a fortunate accident of the Orion design where there are two holes that happen to align with the filament paths in the Chimera. The only issue is that those two holes are not in the ideal position so either the PCB has to be mounted at 45 degrees or the Chimera does. If you mount the PCB at an angle you lose more print volume while mounting the Chimera at an angleby Moriquendi - General
@p40whk Like this? Thingiverse Although 3.5v is theoretically marginal it hasn't caused issues in the past and it's unlikely that a level shifter would help. Later versions don't have this issue. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
@Veaceonee, Please can you PM me your order number, I'll send you a replacement PCB. @CodeBuster, Sorry, I'd assumed you were using a Universal PCB, the Piezo20 is based on an earlier version of the circuit and does read about 3.5v when not triggered, this should still be read as a logic high. The output pulse on the Piezo20 will be about 200ms, it should not vary. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
@CodeBuster, Sorry if I appeared to ignore your question, I didn't intend to. Have I talked with you about this issue on another platform? It can be hard matching up email addresses and forum names so forgive me if we've already covered some of this. Unfortunately I have no experience with Repetier firmware so I'm afraid all I can do is run through verifying with you that the output of the Piezby Moriquendi - General
I dont think that using any nozzle-based Z-probe with a separate Z-endstop will be possible unless you can arrange for some amount of further Z-travel after the endstop has been triggered. Or perhaps if you can get the nozzle away from the bed in X or Y and thereby allow the bed to continue past the point at which the nozzle would touch the bed. I think that the reason this works with inductiveby Moriquendi - General
You don't need a special fork or Marlin for this probe, as far as the firmware is concerned the probe behaves exactly like a normal, mechanical, endstop switch. It's been a very long time since I've had to deal with Marlin. Are you using a z-min endstop as well as a Z-probe? You shouldn't need both, the Z-probe takes the place of a Z-min endstop. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Are you the customer who contacted me via the website? If so I have replied to your email. The behaviour you describe suggests you may have connected the board incorrectly, the connections on the board are V+, GND, SIG. Unfortunately, if the board got very hot it is likely that you have fried it. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
The heatsink mount is designed to be very tight to remove the need for a locknut however but the heatsink should seat with the first, smaller, fin flat against the bottom of the mount. It's possible that I missed some of the print support material at the bottom of the hole, you may be able to remove it or if you prefer, PM me your order number and I'll send you a replacement. Idrisby Moriquendi - General