You should get a blue LED when the red LED goes out. The blue LED is at the other end of the board from the red LED, next to the chip, it'll be underneath the connector when it's plugged in. Please could you PM me your order number, or contact me through the site, if your board is defective I'll replace it immediately. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
@Holmes4 All the PCBs are tested before dispatch so there definitely is an LED on the board. If you turn the potentiometer is there a point where the blue LED lights up? You might find that slightly loosening the four assembly screws improves the triggering, start with 0.5turns on each and test again, repeat if required. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
I'm not really. The mount can be rotated in 90deg increments, you can adjust the rotation of the heatblock by screwing the heatbreak slightly further in or out before tightening the nozzle. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
@Cosmic52, The design you have shown definitely will not work because, as Supraguy says, there's nothing to put force on the Orion PCB. If you attach the heatsink directly to the rest of the printer there is no force on the Orion PCB The Orion PCB is designed to detect force on the centre of the PCB, it does this by allowing the centre of the PCB to bend upwards a very small amount. The easiestby Moriquendi - General
@Arakhan, What are your acceleration and jerk values during Z-probing? Also, a couple of suggested changes to your M558: Use P8 rather than P5, we don't need filtering. H10 is much too high, I probe from 2mm @tletourneau I have a mount for the X5s, I just need to make a couple of tweaks and I'll post it to thingiverse, however I don't yet have a good part cooler for it. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
I'm glad to hear you're enjoying it. We have a couple of solutions for the Chimera and Cyclops though you will still need to do some work to integrate it into your specific printer. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
QuoteMKSA Quoteleadinglights QuoteMKSA Explain the benefits of this set up that is far more complex, has shortcomings (and you describe them), costs more than just ONE sensor in the nozzle mount. No benefit, not worth it. I would explain the benefits and even discuss the relative values of different approaches but your saying "No benefit, not worth it" shows that any such discussion itself woulby Moriquendi - General
@Bondus, Glad it's working for you now. @Ed3D Every controller I've used or even heard of ignores Z-probe triggers except when specifically probing. Triggers during printing have no effect. The Orion is more rigid than a simple disk and you can integrate it into your print head .step files are available here on thingiverse However, I must warn you that designing your own mount is not as straiby Moriquendi - General
Forgive me if this is stuff you already know With the v1.2 Orions the output is open-drain. What this means is that the output can be pulled low by the Orion but it cannot be pulled up. When the Orion is plugged into a controller and the controller has pullups enabled there is a large value resistor (20-100k) between the signal line and V+ so the signal line is pulled up to V+. When the Orion isby Moriquendi - General
QuoteEd3D Ok sounds good to me. If you could stop making me want to buy more printer related things that would be great though But then you wouldn't be giving me any money... QuoteEd3D I've only really briefly looked into the piezo - I assume there will be some good mount ideas kicking around on the internet. Ill be probing onto glass if that matters? There are all sorts of mounts floatingby Moriquendi - General
@Ed3D Most people probe with a heated nozzle, depending on the print bed surface you can print at full temp or at a lower temp where the plastic is already soft. This means that any residual plastic left on the nozzle is squashed flat and doesn't cause a problem. Personally I use a brass brush to clean my nozzle between every print and probe with the nozzle at 160c. I've not noticed any detrimenby Moriquendi - General
Glad it got to you reasonably quickly and that you're happy with the product and the support, that's what I aim for. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
QuoteNumber_5 Right now I guess either the BLTouch or a piezo for a close second might fit most people's criteria as best, all-around. The second reason is the BLTouch can start the auto level feature before the nozzle is warmed up. No point in getting a fancy sensor if I still have to feel like I need to babysit it. A Piezo is a good concept though and in reality it's probably not a big deal fby Moriquendi - General
The replacement is in the post, hopefully it gets to you soon. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
It sounds like your board is defective, the red led shouldn't be on at the same time as the blue led. I'll send you a replacement. Can you please PM me your address and order number? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
If you turn the potentiometer does the red light go out when the blue light come on? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
NEW PRODUCT! Precision Piezo Andromeda. Designed to address some of the issues with drilled and bare piezo disks, this product brings the improved accuracy and durability of the Orion to a more adaptable, and easier to use, form factor. Designed primarily for under bed sensing but usable in any situation. Requires connection to a Precision Piezo Universal PCB or Piezo20 PCB. Available singlby Moriquendi - General
I may be able to get the replacement to you much faster, I've sent you a PM. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Huh... I could have sworn I sent out a replacement but looking through my postage receipts I can't find a record of it. I'll send you a replacement out tomorrow but I must warn you, I've just been informed by Canada Post via Royal mail that they are expecting 4-6week delays in processing incoming mail... it's gonna take a while. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
There shouln't be any spacer, it looked from the picture as thought there was something between the PCB and the clamp. 5mm/s^2 is very slow but that's what I'm using, only during probing, though that's with a very different mechanical setup. I'd suggest reducing acceleration, perhaps 50mm/s^2 and reduce jerk to zero. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Have you got spacers between the clamp and the PCB? I would also suggest reducing acceleration and jerk. Personally I use very low acceleration and jerk, 5mm/s^2 and 0 jerk. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Usually you want the z-axis to move as smoothly as possible, what speed and more importantly acceleration and jerk are you using for Z-probing. The bottom clamp is designed to flex, not move when probing, it shouldn't make any difference how much friction there is on the screws. The caveat is that it the strength and flexibility of the clamp plays quite a large part in the sensitivity of the modby Moriquendi - General
I cannot see easily from the pictures, does your mount hold the heatsink of the hotend? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
I can do that, place the order as normal and add a note that you talked to me on here about it. It might take a little longer to ship as I will have to make a new batch of boards. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
@Nitram; I've added .step files to the thingiverse item HERE @krakow2000; The piezo disks are temperature senditive, changes in temperature will cause triggering. Either decrease sensitivity slightly or just ignore it, the firmware only checks the Z-probe when it's actually probing. Alternatively, if you want to probe at 190c you could try tuning the probe at that temperature. @SlawekC; I'veby Moriquendi - General
The "PCB heatbed" that I have is an aluminium core PCB, it's not made of fibreglass like most PCBs are. It might be worth checking what yours is made of, aluminium core PCBs are designed for heat spreading, under LED chips, might be good to a higher temperature. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
If I'm honest I don't think that the Orion is the cause of the problem but to eliminate it as a possibility I'm happy to send you a replacement. I might be mis-remembering the over travel thing. Are you using the zprobe.dwell_before_probing option? Can you PM me your order number please? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
I have to admit that I'm stumped. I cannot think of anything that would cause this behaviour within the Orion. The only setting on the Orion is the potentiometer, nothing else should be able to change the sensitivity but I'm happy to send you a replacement PCB to see whether that eliminated the issue. One thought occurs to me, is it possible that your z-axis is stopping at different full step poby Moriquendi - General
It's possible though there's nothing to reset exactly on the Orion. Try it anyway. Are you sure we can eliminate other factors? Filament diameter? Extruder variation? Temp nozzle/ambient temp variation? What is your print sequence? Do you level before each print? Home z before each print? How often does this problem occur? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Are you homing the printer at the same bed and nozzle temperature each time? What kind of printer is it? Does the bed move in the Z-axis or the print head? One possibility is that the temperature of the Orion module is upsetting your readings. The piezo disks on the Orion are temperature sensitive. If the Orion is over the bed while the bed is heating then the Orion will be heated too. If sometby Moriquendi - General