QuoteMKSA And why a separate heatsink ? Why not use it as the base of the extruder on which to mount the hobbedgear plus idelr and motor that will be cooled at the same time ? I use half of this: QuoteMKSA An other problem of this kind of heatsink is its height. It adds more than 25 mm to the distance from the hobbgear and the nozzle tip. A flat easily available Al heatsink like I use just addsby Origamib - General
So this idea came to me whilst I was designing my latest printer. Designing the hot end gantry is normally quite the pain. you're trying to squeeze a lot of components in a small space, not helped by the geometry of the hot end which is usually circular and utilising outdated mounting systems like the groove mount. So why are nearly all hot ends designed with circular heat sinks with relativelyby Origamib - General
Quoteforgoden Hello, I want to order some 220V silicone heating pad from china. The size is correct, but they dont have holes. It is possible to make holes with my drilling machine or will it destroy it? Darwin award incoming.by Origamib - General
There is a setting in the slicer that makes models solid, useful if you have a bad mesh. It's a simple tick box but can't remember off top of my head what it's calledby Origamib - General
What chamber temps are you planning on achieving with this? Is a miniature heated chamber very useful? I can print ABS parts about that size without issue. Perhaps useful for high temp materials like peek or ultem, but then you really will need to change the design heavily (high tg plastic and heaters)by Origamib - General
What's so special? I have that exact set up, but I have used it for the last 6 months or so now. The magnetic sheet cost me £5. I use a standard flexplate sheet from buildtak and buildtak PEI on top.by Origamib - General
Quotepiper3d You may try Piper 2 version 2 enclosed: . Has a piper 2 been made before? Renders look incomplete with no motors, transmission, electronics, bed or any noticeable way of attaching panels. Best there is at the moment is probably Dbot or railcore. I'm very impressed by the railcore these days, but the Dbot is easily half the price if you are willing to accept the compromises.by Origamib - General
If you want to spend money, I highly suggest the brand ruko for taps. A bit pricey but insane quality... After tapping 50+ bits of extrusion at each end, I was bloody happy to have them. ruko metric tap set I rarely used to use anything over M5, but, now I'm making a CNC mill with 4040 extrusion and the standard is M8 bolts. I had some left over Alu and I've been making my own T nuts to keep coby Origamib - General
What is your current print quality? Do you have problems with layer registration? If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Belts work well, just check out the digital dentist. If you use screws I highly suggest pairing them to one stepper motor with a belt, not two. Belts and screws are both very viable, it really depends on the implementation.by Origamib - General
Surely your new design causes the same problem? It is still inherently the same design, just curved around a post. I often find the post design is flawed as the post bends in the direction of the belts, eventually causing a slight mismatch of the teeth and some slip. Having said this though, I use a similar design on my own printer and it is one of the best clamping systems I've found so far. Iby Origamib - General
Biggest problem I see is nozzle wear. Brass already wears down quickly, how will silicone fair? Why not a silicone sock placed over a brass nozzle secured in place by a metal zip tie?by Origamib - General
At this point, I could make an extremely reliable printer of my own design for less then £500 and that will have all the features you expect (32 bit board, all metal hotend, reliable heated flat build surface). I would say this is better then any £200-300 Chinese product. But.... It took 4 to 10 times that cost to make the first machine and hundreds of hours of my time. I would have it no otherby Origamib - General
This idea seems backwards, mainly because too much heat is associated with curling, lack of detail and a whole other bunch of printing problems. That said, maybe it could work? Why is it different to a heated chamber?by Origamib - Mechanics
By design aids I mean supplying sketches, diagrams, technical info, specifics of materials, any necessary measurements and angles. Basically making the process for each maker easier, and making the project more accessible. There is no such thing as too little info! For me, reimbursement is not as important as recognition. Knowing that my work could be tied to a project that is larger then myselby Origamib - General
If you wish for people to contribute more, I think you need to include some design aids. For example, the relative angles needed of each node where one plane meets another. The hubs are easy to design as long as you know the exact angles needed. The finished piece will not be tolerant to angles being slightly off, so if you want unique hubs designed by a few people it is quite important to checby Origamib - General
What does it weigh with the drive cable? A lot of these drive cable systems forget to mention that, and I think it is quite important as it is still another element the gantry has to move with.by Origamib - General
I will throw my hat into the ring... I'm not London based, but I can help with design work and other aspects. Drop me a message and we can discuss.by Origamib - General
Your deadline is extremely ambitious, and the prints are quite large. How big is each node exactly? Are you looking for a collaborative partner, or will there be payment for the job?by Origamib - General
QuoteTrakyan It's not so much about bending over time, if my understanding is correct it's more about how far it can bend or flex before it deforms permanently. So using other kinds of steel you'll just need to be careful with how much you flex them. That is how I understand it as well, but without knowing that point I may be deforming it each time I bend it. The material is stiff enough that ifby Origamib - General
So, Spring steel is quite hard to find. After scouring the internet I have not found any reliable sources for it. Locally, I have found a few merchants but they will only sell large sheets around 300x2000mm. This means a 220mm^2 works out around £15-20 each and this is about what Buildtak sells the plate for, standalone without the magnetic system. Doh! I do wonder if stainless or mild steel wouby Origamib - General
Quotecwaa So saying Kossel Delta is like saying Delta Delta? That is like saying the Ultimaker printer is another name for printer printer. Its just a name.by Origamib - General
Hook the fan up to the 12v outputs with a mechanical thermostat: In fact, this is the same as the one used in most cheap power supplies already.....by Origamib - General
It may be possible to integrate it into the plastic body of the titan, however you would have to 3D print the plastic titan section to your own design.by Origamib - General
Are you registered as a charitable organisation? Do you have a charity registration number or other means of tracking your org?by Origamib - General
Quoteklcjr89 Quoteo_lampe Why did you choose 50mm height? Is that your printers max. height? I think, making them as long as possible will reduce the number of contact areas ( read: chances of misalignment ) It was done to keep possible print failures at a lower point instead of printing a 300mm tall extrusion and have it fail and waste plastic. I'f you're worried about adhesion... get creativeby Origamib - General
Why not just print 100mm high extrusions? I have successfully done this before using the CAD files supplied by openbuilds. I used them to make a 3D scanner I designed before buying the correct lengths of extrusion. EDIT: a better idea would be to remove the locating pins and instead design long strips that slide into the channels. The diameter of the center hole can then be larger to accommodateby Origamib - General
Is each shaft long enough for a hobbed gear? This has a lot of potential to drive something like a chimera / cyclops hotend. Weight would be similar but form factor would be as small as it gets without going bowdenby Origamib - General
QuoteTrakyan Here are my main questions: What would you use a CNC for? If you can mention the sort of size and or tolerances you think you'll need, go ahead and mention that. What sort of budget do you have for this machine? I'm not here hoping to hear $10000 so I can throw in a markup, I'm here expecting to hear $300-400 dollars so I can figure out what price point I need to build down to. Whby Origamib - General
How do you cut steel tube for £300? The rate of expansion of MDF seems to be about 0.2% to 0.5%. Will this really be an issue at the tolerances you expect? If you make a template, you can easily make panels of MDF and glue them together for extra strength, with most of the work done by hand with the router. Once the machine is made they can be redone with the CNC. You can even seal the MDF withby Origamib - General