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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: 3D printer controller board available on Europe market - 8 years ago
Will re-arm be cheaper? I think it's important to consider the cost of quality parts. A quality ramps 1.4 board is not cheap, as are decent stepper drivers. Once you factor this cost in (also cost of replacing badly designed steppers), you may want to consider other options.by Origamib - General
Re: New Reprap Printer, Calling it, the KittyCat! - 8 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD Totally agree, this design might be a good step up from an i3. But it's hard not to look at it and conclude it's just 4 slightly longer extrusions in y dimension from being a cube frame and being a much better printer for it. Maybe this is the answer - start with this frame, then upgrade it to a cube frame, putting the replaced extrusions to one side to later make a z axis with,by Origamib - General
Re: Need Recommendation for Source of 400mm x 400mm Borosilicate Glass - 8 years ago
Can't say I've noticed any problems with toughened, but I havn't measured it.by Origamib - General
Re: Do sharper nozzles handle overhangs better? - 8 years ago
Does the flat tip of the nozzle impart more heat and allow for less cooling? Got any pictures of the prints?by Origamib - General
Re: New Reprap Printer, Calling it, the KittyCat! - 8 years ago
What are the dimensions and weight of the bed? Moving beds cause a lot of problems, and if you're designing from ground up, why not eliminate them? Even a 200x200mm bed can weight around 1kg, add to that the weight of prints, perhaps up to and over 400grams? Depends what you print, but I've had relatively small prints weigh in at 200 grams.by Origamib - General
Re: Need Recommendation for Source of 400mm x 400mm Borosilicate Glass - 8 years ago
Your local glazier will likely be able to do toughened or borosilicate,which will probably be cheaper than glass + spreader (and lighter). Buying glass local is usually cheaper, most of the cost you see online is for the shipping, even if it is free p&p.by Origamib - General
Re: Closed loop brushed motor controller - 8 years ago
Quoteleadinglights Quoteleprud If i can't buy it, it's useless And if I can't make it I am not interested. If you only want thing that can be bought you should keep to Alibaba - many people on this forum are much more interested in things that they can make Mike It's open source so don't see why you can't make it....by Origamib - General
Re: Setting Up 3 Point Leveling - 8 years ago
You can place the screws anywhere. In theory, you could have all 3 in the center of the bed, but the edges of the bed would be harder to adjust. The larger the triangle the easier fine adjustment is. Assuming your bed could not bow under its own weight the screws can be anywhere. 2 screws define a straight line between the 2 screws, and the 3rd defines a 2D plane (eg, it defines the slope of thby Origamib - General
Re: Invert Inductive Sensor for different hotends - 8 years ago
QuoteDaveOB I considered a mechanical switch that the nozzle could push, but if there is any filament hanging below the nozzle from the previous print, then that would affect the function. Just make sure you only level with a hot nozzle. Than fit some tough bristles before the switch to clean the nozzle. This would actually than make for a great little pre-print script to level the nozzle and clby Origamib - General
Re: Invert Inductive Sensor for different hotends - 8 years ago
The next issue you will have would be leveling the sensor to the bed. I would suggest having 3 point levelling, but keeping the third point fixed. This is where the sensor would go as well. That way, your sensor will level the nozzle correctly to the bed and than you only have to level 2 points. If inductive does not work, I'm sure something else would. Perhaps a mechanical endstop or IR sensor.by Origamib - General
Re: Large Scale 3D Printing - 8 years ago
With large nozzle sizes, you could easily make a cap or valve that closes off the nozzle during travel moves.by Origamib - General
Re: Sales Meta - 8 years ago
There is a buy and sell page here, but it is not frequented at all unfortunately. I would be happy for you to list it here, but I can't speak for everyone else (or the moderators)by Origamib - General
Re: E3D takes unfair advantage over competition - 8 years ago
Weird angry internet troll much?by Origamib - General
Re: Lead Screw Recomendataions - 8 years ago
1 bearing at each end of the screw can cause more banding if your screw is not true. This is where it is handy to have a screw with no trapped end. My set up is 2 acme (4 start) screws, driven by a closed loop belt. so that the belt does not force the screws out of alignment, I have 2 bearings on one end, with the pulley in between. I tried capturing the other end of the screw, but the mechanisby Origamib - General
Re: Lead Screw Recomendataions - 8 years ago
My heavy x axis does not drop with 4 start 8mm leadscrews. All I can say is, buy good ones. I skimped out on mine and they work great but as I get my quality up I can definately see repeatable banding which my best guess is from the screws. Lesser printers may never see this, but it's something that bothers me.by Origamib - General
Re: Delta printer - 8 years ago
QuoteGroupB Quoteleadinglights The thing about scaling is that you often need to increase some parts much more than you may think. For example, many small printers have a working volume of about 200mm wide but 200mm deep by 200mm high and they use 8mm smooth rods - the individual errors over this size tend to be a bit less than 0.1mm and they add up to about 0.1mm or thereabouts with care. If howby Origamib - General
Re: Smooth Rods problems with identification and usability - 8 years ago
If you are salvaging rods, you need to make sure they are straight and true before you bother spending much time and effort on them. Alternatively, look into other methods of linear motion. V slot, linear rails or bearings on extrusion. Some have even printed nylon bushings with varying success.by Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
More praise for Mutley after I got a new sheet of custom PrintBite at no extra cost! Great service, would happily pay more for it. I've recently had problems with my old print bite actually. It turns out the bed was warping over my overly large heater cables. This resulted in an uneven surface and all my prints were popping off. This hadn't happened before but it seems I had over tightened theby Origamib - General
Re: Beginner model suggestions - 8 years ago
I think as a beginner, you should dial it in a bit. Not to squash ambition, but once you make a printer and realise its limitations you will understand why. For example, mixing colours is a possiblity but it is not like mixing ink. it makes a sort of 'toothpaste' stripe instead. If you need multicolour models, have you considered painting and finishing techniques? You can get an amazing finish frby Origamib - General
Re: Printy Update: An Open Source DIY 3D SLA Printer - 8 years ago
Love it! I have been looking into SLA for a while and have been considering DLP but this looks like it may be a winner. Would love to see more on the electronics. Personally for me, The price is great at £800. You have to be reasonable about the cost, and going much less than that you may as well make an FDM machine. So for me, print quality is the number 1 factor. I have cheap FDM machines ifby Origamib - Look what I made!
Re: E3D takes unfair advantage over competition - 8 years ago
Perhaps we think it's a bit underhand to sell clones of another person's design but whatever drives business at the end of the day, right?by Origamib - General
Re: E3D takes unfair advantage over competition - 8 years ago
To be honest, it just sounds like you want to put down the name of e3d before you have all the facts. I'm not defending what they did, but I'm not a fan of people airing their dirty laundry in public either.by Origamib - General
Re: E3D takes unfair advantage over competition - 8 years ago
Before setting up a message like this on a forum, have you considered messaging e3d to see if they have a position on the matter? As others have said you may be caught in the crossfire. I imagine e3d report many listings of fake clones.by Origamib - General
Re: Cast tooling plate print bed flatness - 8 years ago
How would you support the bed without the 2020? I would also consider supporting the center of the bed at that size,or using thicker plate.by Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Plastic Injection Moulding pieces with Undercuts - 8 years ago
Why not cast them? Make the initial master as good as you can with whatever tech you can get in price range and then make a silicone mould out of it.by Origamib - General
Re: Whats better then Simplify3D - 8 years ago
I'm finding S3D very limiting as well. Its support structures are not as great as they make out, You can't set a process to only print support. You can't set a separation distance for support (only a layer amount, eg 2 layer seperation) This becomes a problem if you want to print a separate material and layer height for support, and also you can never get the perfect separation distance (which sby Origamib - General
Re: Marlin needs your help to go 32Bit - 8 years ago
I'll take a look at this later and will probably give some money. I'm quite happy to, I use duet now but ramps + marlin got me through a year of printing, and allowed me to enter the 3D printing game at a reasonable cost. I owe them at least a donation.by Origamib - General
Re: Cups on arms, cups on effector? - 8 years ago
How much did it cost to get the Haydn arms all in? They look good, but the cost is putting me off when I could easily make them myself for a lot cheaper...by Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Grub/set screw in drive gear keeps getting loose. - 8 years ago
Perhaps the thread of your drive gear is buggered after everything you've tried to fix it? Might be an idea to fix this rather than permanently glue everythingby Origamib - General
Cups on arms, cups on effector? - 8 years ago
I'm looking to make a large delta, similar to the DC42 build. I'm looking at 8/6mm (OD/ID) carbon arms, with 6mm cylindrical magnets slotted inside and some form of cup to keep the magnet slightly separated from the 10mm balls placed on the effector. I'm probably going to start with printed cups, but later may machine some delrin cups as this shouldn't be too difficult to do. Basically my questby Origamib - Delta Machines