Could be temporary under extrusion. If drive gear slips on filament but then manages to pick up again, it can leave these gaps. Alternatively, it could be extruder motor/driver overheating or disconnecting randomly. Are the gaps consistent? If they happen in the same place all the time, it's likely a mechanical issue.by Origamib - General
Panels mounted to outside with t nuts will make it very rigid. 3030 extrusion will add to this but I don't think it's necessary.by Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quoteunromeo21 Quotedc42 Looks OK to me. But given that you only need to raise the non-printing nozzle about 1mm higher than the printing one, I think you could use a much simpler arrangement, base on tilting or rotating the entire print head by a few degrees. Yes David, that's true. But that does not solve issues that this design or the IDEX design solves, like stopping oozing, keeping the hoteby Origamib - Mechanics
QuoteDjDemonD I agree entirely with the above. Tighten that idler! The other dimension - when I used to use a direct ungeared extruder with 1.75mm filament was the pulsing which occurred when flow rates were low, this caused artefacts on the prints. This is reduced/eliminated by gearing. +1 for the titan its a very effective extruder, and works very well with a 20mm nema 17 motor @ 200g for motorby Origamib - General
I have a similar system rigged up to mine. The stepper can easily be moved left and right to make it tighter, as well as the two central pulleys. This means the belt can be any length (within reason) and then just move the stepper to take up the slack.by Origamib - Mechanics
If weight is the reason, consider getting an e3d titan. It has performed admirably for me on a nema 17 pancake Stepper, not sure what dimensions I've got but it's very small.by Origamib - General
Acceleration values? Perhaps you need less acceleration with the heavier carriage.by Origamib - Delta Machines
QuoteJamesK QuoteOrigamibI'm not bought yet, how do we know it is the optimum for each material? Does it have to be optimal, or just good enough to work? Not having to adjust tension is pretty appealing, one less thing to forget, one less source of variability. You're right though, the good old test cube isn't a particularly hard test for extruders. Still, given that it was at least working forby Origamib - General
I'm not bought yet, how do we know it is the optimum for each material? To know it is the optimum, you'd need to see retraction tests of each material as well as extrusion tests to know it is pushing what it should through the extruder. The latter is hard to test, but the former a bit easier to (just show voronoi prints of each material).by Origamib - General
The print volume doesn't match the arms unfortunately, so enclosing the printer is difficult. When the Z arm reaches 0,0 for X and y, it will extend outside the build volume by about half the distance of y, so a 40cm cubed build volume needs an 80cm wide and 60 cm tall frame. This is assuming the arm is nearly fully extended at the furthest point away from its base. A corexy can reach a betteby Origamib - Look what I made!
Quoteo_lampe How would you connect the vertical towers to a delta-triangle? The hinges seem to have only 1 DOF. The robotdigg extruded alu-corners are much better for that purpose ( and cheap ). And they come with Nema17 brackets too. They have build examples of delta structures, the tower would attach to the central point of the bracket. I would agree that robotdigg corners are better for the jby Origamib - Delta Machines
So openbuilds have announced new angled tee nuts to allow for weird angles out of extrusion such as 60, 120 135 degrees. And to top it all off, it only costs £8 for a pack of 10. What do people think of them? Will they be the new joint of choice for Deltas? I can only see they may be a bit weak, and no means to attach 2040 v slot to the middle section. Also, I'm not sure I'd like the idea of suby Origamib - Delta Machines
I've noticed that you can't change the tension on the filament, this is one thing determined by your design and the breach system. With it being a plastic extruder, are there any worries that wear over time will reduce the tension over time?by Origamib - General
Seems fine or was fine? I only ask as this has all the symptoms of a mechanical failure, either belt slipping or pulley not driving etc. I would suggest removing the pulley to check, as with tight belts sometimes small grub screws slip and leave gouges in the motor shaft.by Origamib - General
Recently had some frustrations with printbite and so I thought I'd put my troubles up in case anyone else gets this problem. I had printbite dialled in perfectly. Its been going for months and months, nearly 12 hours or more a day with little to no problems and then all of a sudden NO prints would stick. even simple calibration cubes had trouble sticking. This had me stumped for a whole week, aby Origamib - General
Have you checked the grub screw on your pulleys? I bet its shifted. Tighten it up, and make a flat on the motor shaft.by Origamib - General
Commercial machines sometimes have as much downtime as repraps. If a part breaks, and you don't have it, then you are out of business whether or not it came with a swanky warranty. My advice? Find a decent machine in the $500 range, and buy a 2nd machine as soon as funds allow.by Origamib - General
Check out openbuilds v slot. I made the voxel ox printer out of v slot and it has a 300x300mm build area. Cost me in the region of £500. A very capable machine I've found so far. Standard frame cut prusas are not very extendable, even if you have the frame made in metal. The problem is a flat frame that is very tall and only attached at the bottom can only be so strong it would not take much foby Origamib - General
I'm very interested in the nimble, but I'd like more info on the mounting options. Alot has been said about diamond hot ends etc. I'd like to see the overall weight with hot end + mounting options, even if it was just an e3d. It would also be good to see more pictures of possible prints, but I imagine it is of similar if not better quality then the flex3drive and I've seen good results from that.by Origamib - General
As said before, you're not comparing the style of motion here but the build quality. In theory corexy is more capable then any standard cartesian design as it does not have the added bulk of an X axis motor. This means you can design it to be lighter and faster. However, any machine if well designed is still highly capable.by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
I wish Simplify3D did the first infill layer as a bridge. I often have troubles when doing 100 micron layers and you have to do more layers to hide pillowing. Sometimes it leads to clumps forming in the print or on the nozzle.by Origamib - General
Seeing how print bite works, I doubt you will have any problems at all! I've not tried it yet but a roll of colorfabb carbon fill is going to be my next purchase and that is petg based I believe so please keep this thread updated if you go through with itby Origamib - General
PCB etching is very easy to do on a printer, I've seen a video somewhere of a nail attached to the effector with a spring so that there is not too much pressure on the PCB. works just like a pen plotter, except that it may need multiple passes to scratch away the surface. You may find that if you only want the drill for a few holes in PCB, perhaps invest in a pillar drill or 3D print a stand foby Origamib - Reprappers
Nice little design, I always liked these mini crane arm printers. How is the X axis holding up? Looks like the only weak part of the design with linear rods used as structural elements tooby Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Not entirely sure what you're asking, but if it is interchangeable toolheads there are many things you can add. Pellet extruder Scalpel attachment for making stencils pen plotter Light CNC (dremel attachment) laser (cutting, SLA?? SLS?! Probably not..... ) There are many problems with making a machine in this way. -- An interchangeable toolhead may be too big, and impact on your usable builby Origamib - Reprappers
What you've shown in the picture is types of movement systems, not 3D printer designs. Each has its own compromise, but each is able to have highly accurate, precise and repeatable movements. You just need to design your machine with the strengths and weaknesses of each system in mind. For example, H-bot is fine as long as it is designed with the differences in belt tension in mind. CoreXY is 'smby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Very nice, think i'll start looking at old printers and fax machines with a different eye from now onby Origamib - General
- 9 years agoBacklash could be an issue depending on where the weight of your bed is, if its center of mass is not at the center, then the lighter side of the bed will fall and rise with the backlash. I had this issue on my cartesian with the X axis, as the X axis motor caused it to be heavier on one side and my original brass nuts were not backlash free. I switched to anti-backlash delrin nuts and I have perby Origamib - Mechanics
Watch this space, but I believe the USB might be the issue. I've always printed off USB since removing the screen off my printer. I never liked using it, and the lack of control and awkward menus weren't my thing. That, and after hearing about it taking up too much processing power on the arduino it was the logical decision to ditch it. I believe, the change is either caused by weird segments (by Origamib - Printing
I thought this after I posted, embarrassingly... but no it's not. I'm printing a cookie cutter at the moment (batch of 20, so plenty of chance to experiment on each piece). The issue does not happen on each layer, which it should on such repeatable layers. Weirdly, it doers not happen at set intervals, but these intervals do seem to occur at the same rate. Lining up the blobs on prints, once itby Origamib - Printing