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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Pause on Z movement - 8 years ago
For some reason, my printer has started randomly pausing when a Z movement takes place. Initially, it started doing this when the fan came on and now it does it on Z movement (but not every single Z movement, just every 5-6 say). I'm running ramps 1.4 on a Cartesian machine, and the pauses can be from 5-20 seconds long causing a big blob to be made, and the next few cm's to not extrude. Turningby Origamib - Printing
Re: Future Printer Mods - 8 years ago
They have a laser scanner module on the markforged.. Im interested to know if this actually makes corrections to the model or is it a gimmick?by Origamib - General
Re: Overcoming the limitations of support material - 8 years ago
Very nice idea, however it still does not defeat the need for support in some designs. I'm a firm believer in optimising designs, as no manufacturing process is without its compromises, but some things cannot be optimised any more then they already are. This is why I believe the fork is a great example of a design which cannot be changed (not that you would want 3D printed cutlery, but perhapsby Origamib - General
Re: Interesting effect with the 3D Benchy in S3D - 8 years ago
You could do that, but rejecting jobs affects your position in searches unless it is for a good reason (apparently each one is reviewed). It's much better to just start cheap on 3Dhubs and then work your way up to a respectable price.by Origamib - General
Overcoming the limitations of support material - 8 years ago
When I first started 3D printing, I was quite the believer in avoiding support as much as possible, I was of the opinion that dual extrusion was not necessary most of the time, and that really a model should just be designed and optimised to make use of 3D printing as it is. But what if it can't? There are many designs out there which can't be split, or don't want to be bound by the overhang ruby Origamib - General
Re: Same old question . - 8 years ago
QuoteTibuck Little update, I think I figured out why I think my prints are not as good with the lead screws as with the rods, For some reason one side of my z axis drops back down a half of a mm when rising , Example, If I raise the z 40mm, the right side holds it position but the left drops a tad, almost like it rotates back to stop on the motors closes step. Has anyone had this happen ? FYI Marby Origamib - General
Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago
Usually you can measure the repeatability of the banding, and measure this against components in your set up. For example, the bands on your 3Dbenchy seem to happen every 8mm?? It's very hard to say from the pictures. But if it is 8mm, is the pitch of your leadscrew 8mm? I've uploaded a picture of the banding I can see.by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago
Why not use Z-offset instead of lowering flow rate? I'm assuming your first layer is being too squished. Using the large fan seems a bad solution to me as well, the extruder carriage and X axis are blocking most of the air from getting to the just printed PLA. It might mess with your bed heater once it is installed as well. Other than that, prints look great. Hard to tell from the pictures, buby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Extruder Cable - 8 years ago
I would also be interested in this, so that the cable can be bent to 90 degrees where it meets the Z axis on a standard cartesian machine. I would also be happy to settle for 2x cables though for this solution.by Origamib - General
Re: Extruder Cable - 8 years ago
1m is probably a pretty good length for my printer, although 1m is probably a bit much for others, especially with the majority of printers only having a 20-30cm travel distance. How hard is it to chop and shorten these cables? Folding them does not seem like a great option to me, and would probably put me off as I'd buy it to neaten up my printer, not add an extra bundle of wiresby Origamib - General
Re: Acetone vapor smoothing ABS and metal - 8 years ago
If you leave a rod in there, it will probably get stuck. The acetone 'melts' the abs, leaving the surface sticky. so any metal rod in the hinge could get stuck. Acetone also weakens ABS prints, so if this is a particularly load bearing hinge you may not want to do this. Consider printing with 4-5 perimeters and sanding instead to maintain strength.by Origamib - General
Re: Extruder Cable - 8 years ago
I've been looking for a solution like this, if you got these out for sale I'd be interested in a few.by Origamib - General
Re: Inlet manifolds for a V8 - 8 years ago
What filament are you using? I'm pretty impressed that this might actually work. Keep us updated on the progress!by Origamib - Look what I made!
Re: Extruders on the market for bowden/delta - 8 years ago
I've got a titan and it works well, no complaints really. Manual loading of filament with the large gear is pretty handy actually. I used a printed non geared direct extruder before the titan and I would say it worked just as well, but more annoying to take apart for maintenance.by Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Geared Stepper - 8 years ago
Stripped filament can be solved by using a better design of hobbed bolt. I've only used the MK8 and the e3d titan one, but the mk8 certainly stripped less. The titan also prefers the idler to be very tight on the filament, the mk8 was not so important. For reference, my mk8 was used on an ungeared direct drive extruder run on a large nema 17. The E3D titan uses a pancake nema 17 motor with 3:1by Origamib - Reprappers
Re: bare aluminium VS anodized aluminium heated bed? - 8 years ago
Depends where you live. Look for aluminium suppliers in your area, you need milled flat tooling plate. I bought mine from www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk it's the ecocast plate. Not too expensive either I thought, although postage is not great. Fast though, and well packaged so I guess I can't scoff too much.by Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Large Kossel all metal delta build log - 8 years ago
Nice, loving the progress so far! How much did it cost to get that panel cut for the bottom? How much stability has it added to the machine?by Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Different thickness in same piece to print - 8 years ago
I think you have missed the point carletto, we are doing this within the slicing software, not post production Normally I would make the models so that you can just center them on the build plate, but if this doesn't work then make the models seperate components in sketchup, and then use S3D to seperate connected models. I'm not sure how with other CAD software.by Origamib - General
Re: Introducing the Zesty Nimble Extruder - 8 years ago
Not to question the will of the mods, but why has this been moved to the sales section? Its not for sale yet, and many other posts of the same nature are not moved here. Also, if all posts like this went here, we'd probably never even know they existed...by Origamib - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Re: Introducing the Zesty Nimble - 8 years ago
Very nice! I look forward to seeing more on this What sort of price are we looking at for one of these? Is there any backlash in the driver cable? What are the benefits of this over the worm gear design of the flex3drive?by Origamib - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Re: Preferred Z Axis Style? - 8 years ago
What you are suggesting is to use screws as guides aswell... It could be possible but you would need to design the screws so that there is no play in the nuts whatsoever. Standard 8mm diameter acme screws and brass nuts will not be up for the job. You are probably looking at using large diameter ball screws. However it is implemented in the end, I bet it will be more expensive than just using guby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Different thickness in same piece to print - 8 years ago
Simplify3D is great for this. You can do it in a single model by setting two different processes to start and stop at different heights (but limited to only height) or load the model up in multiple parts and each part gets a new process. I've often used this to do different infills in different parts of the model as well as multi colour prints with filaments that need different parameters.by Origamib - General
Re: Interest in saving effort by sharing gcode? - 8 years ago
S3D slices files instantaneously on my crappy old laptop, so why is portable gcode needed?by Origamib - General
Re: The Prometheus System - Intuitive Multi-Filament 3D Printing! - 8 years ago
Sounds great, I liked the look of your prometheus hot end but put off by lack of UK distributors. One thing I can say though, Please use less GIF's and more details and pictures of the internals of the extruder. The GIF's are very distracting, and make it annoying to read the post.by Origamib - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Re: Box of bits. What to make? - 8 years ago
Learning experiment? You have enough kit there to make a new type of machine, using mostly printed parts. Perhaps the quality will be bad, but who cares? You have a working printer already Scara 3D printer? Fully printed delta? Can be nearly completed printed, except for some bearings / linear rods / belt Eggbot? motorised etch a sketch? Spirograph XY plotter? Automated rubber band gattlingby Origamib - General
Re: Preferred Z Axis Style? - 8 years ago
For most applications, screws are the way forward. I've never been keen on the belts method as it can't hold its own weight, and belts tend to wear faster. Belts are much better for high speed applications, but the Z Axis will never have to move that fast. A leadscrew is the way to go. I'm not even sure why people go for belts, as surely a length of GT2 belt and pulleys costs just as much as a scby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Searching for advice on how to start 3D printing (e.g. what should I buy?) - 8 years ago
Since you've already built a CNC machine, I'd be inclined to say that the Prusa is the wrong way to go. Everyone spouts the 'learning curve' as such a positive attribute to these things but if you've already built a ShapeOko, you're not missing out on anything. In fact, if the stepping stone argument is what you believe in then you have already learnt enough to dive right into delta machines. Fby Origamib - General
Re: Large Kossel all metal delta build log - 8 years ago
Nice build log so far, I'm enjoying it! Where did you get the e3d silicone cover from though?by Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Marlin for CoreXY - 8 years ago
1 - why swap beds? You'll need to calibrate again. Sounds like a pain to me. I can understand build surfaces, but build size? 2- steps per mm issue id guess. Or binding in mechanism so it can't travel as far as you tell it. 3- endstop wiring / configuration. Google is your friend for this.by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: This is a tank - 8 years ago
I can't remember how much the belt cost, but it was in the range of normally priced GT2 belt. I searched aliexpress and ordered a batch of 5, and I remember it being less than £10 at least. Considering the cost of the rest of the machine, it really wasn't a problem. Other parts needed? a 'standard' nema 17 bracket mount (£1-2) and whatever bearings you have lying around, and also some of the openby Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames