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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! 
[Many Pictures] - 8 years ago
Sounds interesting, Do you sell your hotends in the UK? Also, how do your nozzles fair with carbon fibre filled filaments?by Origamib - General
Re: This is a tank - 8 years ago
Ahh nice, the Voxel Ox by Marshall Peck. I've made one of these as well but over the past year it has taken on many modifications! -- Highly modified X axis and gantry to be lighter, and more space efficient in both X and Z planes. I've knocked at least 400/500 grams off the extruder carriage. -- New bottom frame to store electronics. Makes the machine look like an absolute beast, yet it's stillby Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Beginner printer - 8 years ago
Before any suggestions are made, what is your background with this, and what is your budget? There are much better printers then a prusa i3 out thereby Origamib - General
Re: Maximum length of belts - 8 years ago
Are you asking how long they are, Or how long can you get them? The answer to the first question is each belt is roughly the perimeter of the machine, so if the XY dimensions of your machine is 450x450, expect a single belt length to be about 1800mm. How long can you get them? That would depend on the width of the belt, and the type of belt. 6mm GT2 belt should be fine for most smaller CoreXY'sby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Cast tooling plate print bed flatness - 8 years ago
Quoten8bot This is why I love PEI as a print surface. It doesn't lose its grip on the part while it cools down, so the parts don't warp. I use Printbite, which works on a similar principle to PEI I believe. The warping issue with active cooling at the end of a print would likely affect it in the same way.by Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Cast tooling plate print bed flatness - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Have you considered speeding up the cooling by kicking on a fan to blow on the uninsulated bed after a print has finished? That way you'd get fast heat up, better temperature regulation, and fast cool down without all the extra mass, and risk of glass breakage. I'll bet one fan is cheaper than one or a few pieces of glass, too. Using a fan to cool down ABS prints increby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Nozzle wear when printing with carbon fiber - 8 years ago
E3D did a blog post on nozzle wear and tear with carbon filaments. I'll probably invest in one of these hardened nozzles soon, even though I don't use carbon that much. are there any downsides to using a toughened nozzle?by Origamib - General
Re: Pancake stepper extruder - 8 years ago
The flex3drive sounds great, I don't think I'd ever go for the speedometer cabling though as it's not a particularly tested method. The simplicity of direct drive beats weight savings in my opinion, and hopefully even lighter extruders will continue to come out that rival Bowden / flex3drive. An update to this thread though, the 20mm Stepper works great! I've used abs, PLA and ninja flex througby Origamib - General
Re: PETG parts and heated chamber - 8 years ago
Google tells me a glass point of 75c, so you should be fine but keep an eye on motor mounts made with it as this area may exceed this. Refer to manufacturer to get a better number though, there is likely to be a lot of differences between manufacturers.by Origamib - General
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 8 years ago
Have you considered using blower fans rather than standard fans? You can get some pretty compact 30mm blower fans that may be a near drop in for the designby Origamib - General
Re: A warning about 3dfilaprint.com - 8 years ago
I made a complaint to filaprint not that long ago about black reprapper tech PLA. The complaints procedure was a bit of a pain (had to send it back like you) but the guy who handled it was friendly and responsive the whole time. I'd use them again just for that. The PLA itself was not great. It had the consistency of tar when it came out the hot end, stuck to everything and would blob and ruinby Origamib - General
Re: Site not in english - 8 years ago
Although I hate spammers, it has to be said that the new captchas for every post is excruciatingly annoying. Not only are they good at stopping bots, they are also good at stopping me.....by Origamib - General
Re: MGN12H rails questions - 8 years ago
That sounds promising, maybe I'll have to take you up on that discount you mentioned. I'm trying to make a CoreXY machine at the moment, and the minimal size of rail compared to Delrin wheels on extrusion is hard to beat when you want to maximise build area.by Origamib - General
Re: Z Axis Research - 8 years ago
In theory, you could use your form of motion as a guide as well, for example you could use large diameter screws bound at both the top and bottom to keep it straight. The problem with this? If you take a brass nut for a lead screw, it has play In almost all directions and this means the bed will not be constrained to move in just the Z Axis, it will also move In the XY plane. Having a form of lby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: [UK] Printbite, toughnened glass, mk2b heat bed, openbuilds build plate. - 8 years ago
Still for sale, will consider offers.by Origamib - For Sale
Re: GIANT Core-xy build - 8 years ago
A very nice looking build you have so far, but will the bed be stable enough with only 2 wheels per extrusion? The normal set up (3 / 4 wheels per piece of extrusion) works well as the wheels can 'clamp' on to the rigid extrusion, and I assume that you are trying to do the opposite by torquing the wheels outwards on to each piece of extrusion, but when the bed reaches the center of the extrusionby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: MGN12H rails questions - 8 years ago
So, the question is... Are MGN12H rails worth it? I'd be interested in hearing about your experiences so far with them. I'm considering rail instead of delrin wheels, but it seems in the UK that the only choice is the chinese vendors on aliexpressby Origamib - General
Re: One disaster after another - 8 years ago
I think you described what is causing your problems in the last 2 sentences of your postby Origamib - General
Re: Wondering about CoreXY and different motor torques - 8 years ago
QuotefilipeCampos is magic!! sorry about the joke, but i could not hold this one.. "If one motor turn more than the other" -> the printer use stepper motors, this do not happens. Can you explain why it doesn't? Surely there must be differences between motors, they cannot be made identically (especially from China)by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
You do not necessarily need a rock solid printer straight away. Deciding which printer to make /buy is difficult as the internet is full of many contrasting opinions. What is important though, is that you choose a design which you believe you can modify and improve with ease. You do not necessarily have to get complex parts cut, they could simply be plates that you design later on when you knowby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
With a budget as big as yours, you could easily go for a D-bot and upgrade the parts to CNC'ed aluminium plates. The D-bot is not enclosable due to some of the plates running on the outside, but with aluminium you will be able to have only 1 plate on the inside. However, I would personally not choose the D-bot due to the very large number of plastic parts, some at high-stress parts of the machineby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Making X and Y axis perpendicular - 8 years ago
Not easily unfortunately. i have a machine made from extrusion, milled to the exact length. This helps insanely when getting my machine square and true. I use the offcuts of extrusion to position the bed, as I know each piece is exactly 80mm wide. I then place my guides next to this, clamp it down and do similarly to the other side before fastening it permanently. You could use calipers to similaby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Heating pad 220v 600w what do i need to power this thing safely - 8 years ago
What machine are you running this on? Deltas, coreXY or anything that only moves the build plate in Z work very well with 220v, as there is little chance of it detaching / breaking/ wreaking havoc. Whatever machine you run it on though, make sure you plan where you wiring will be, use wiring harnesses and make sure there are no extreme bends in the path of the wire. Bends caused by moving mechaby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: 1 of Z step motors looseing steps? - 8 years ago
I recently had this problem... My power supply died a few days after it happened. I can only assume their was a lack of power from the slowly dying PSU. Replaced the PSU and hey! its fine now. The heavier side of my x axis is the motor which skipped the steps, sometimes it would skip by as much as 2mm. I'm soon going to switch to a single motor Z axis (upgrade has been in the works for far tooby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: PLA Object Is Coating Necessary? - 8 years ago
QuotePlumguy Hmmm, so moisture is more of a concern with PLA filament, (such as storage) but not the final printed object? Hmm, no, moisture will have an effect. PLA will break down in a compost, moisture and heat is what is required to start the break down process. It is of course less of an issue after you've printed. from what I understand, water in filament will give it a 'honeycomb' effectby Origamib - General
Re: Bowden Extruders - 8 years ago
Did you not see the winky face? The winky face is lighthearted. If you don't like discussion, than you won't get on here. Also, I hardly 'resurrected it', the last post was a month or so ago. One person claiming something works, is not evidence. I have no idea how repeatable or measureable your results are. Show me the statistics (heres a little winky face - its all lighthearted so you don't hby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Bowden Extruders - 8 years ago
Quotedeckingman Hey man, I'm just going by the info published on the flex3drive web site. Now you tell me there are other versions but there is no mention of them on the web site. So don't give me this grief... Quote - "you simply can't use one unrelated design to make assessments about another design like that. logic does not compute, captain." End of Quote. The "unrelated design" is the onlyby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Fonts for 3D printing - 8 years ago
Depends on where the font is, if it is placed in the XY plane (ie, on top of your print) than nozzle size is what dictates the minimum size of features. If you place it in the Z plane (ie, the side) than your resolution and print accuracy is more important. Most fonts will work if you scale them up enough, how big do they need to be? Arial works well if you have to go small. Or just use any fonby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Duet WiFi details published, pre-order window open - 8 years ago
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on buying one of these boards.... Like most of my upgrades and purchases, it's inspired by the crap I should never have bought... ie, RAMPS 1.4. I'm quite fed up with the connectors for larger wires, and I've had overheating problems recently as well. This has apparently become a new issue, and I fear the board is going to die / go up in a ball of flame and maby Origamib - Duet
Re: Aluminium bed upgrade. - 8 years ago
I'm not sure what beef you guys have got with each other, but save it for PM's. I don't use these forums much, I'm more of a lurker who posts when the actual info can't be found via google. Its topics like this, but made by other people that have helped me to build my printer to the high quality that it is now (with no prior experience in high precision machines). Removing the information fromby Origamib - Mechanics