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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Aluminium bed upgrade. - 8 years ago
Interesting to hear that you only use 6.35mm aluminium, perhaps I can get away with 5mm. A link to 5mm toolplate as well - I've had some thoughts on using more than one linear guide.... Why does it need it? other applications use them, as linear guides are relatively thin compared to mine. The larger the build plate gets, the more movement you'll see towards the edge of that bed. (eg, 1 degreeby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
Quotenebbian QuoteOrigamib Judging by that picture you posted, you have some major over extrusion problems. Try knocking back the flow rate by 10%, see what happens and then adjust it in increments up/down depending on the result. On the contrary, I believe the issue in that picture is too low nozzle height on the first layer. You can see that the parallel lines around the perimeter at theby Origamib - General
Re: Aluminium bed upgrade. - 8 years ago
Quotedeckingman QuoteOrigamib No comments? Would be interested to know peoples thoughts on 5mm tooling plate, will it be thick enough? As you have invited comments, here is my twopence worth. Personally, I don't like the fact that you have effectively one linear guide in the centre of the bed. Admittedly it's 80mm wide but with a 300mm bed, you have a lot hanging over each side. I'd go for two pby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Aluminium bed upgrade. - 8 years ago
No comments? Would be interested to know peoples thoughts on 5mm tooling plate, will it be thick enough?by Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Flexible couplers without backlash? - 8 years ago
Sorry I'm not entirely sure what you mean by your description. I've uploaded some pictures of my current set up. You'll have to excuse the crazy mess of wires.... They are meant to be tucked away in the extrusion. This is working well so far, and has done for a while. the backlash issue I mentioned only came about when I put it back together recently, and did not secure the screw well enby Origamib - General
Re: Flexible couplers without backlash? - 8 years ago
Yes I have been very fond of the idea of a single Z motor for a while, I simply went for dual Z at the beginning as it was simple to set up. My first attempt at a single motor Z set up was using normal brass nuts for the lead screws, this worked great. In an effort to get rid of backlash, I went for delrin nuts with a built in grub screw to remove backlash. The single motor set up didnt work afteby Origamib - General
Flexible couplers without backlash? - 8 years ago
So I use a fairly 'standard' 5mm to 8mm flexible coupler, much like this - I noticed recently, that one side of my X gantry was not raising at the same time as the other. Upon closer inspection, one of the screws was not inserted all the way making the coupling more flexible, and less rigid. Backlash was created as the spring had to take up slack, and then it could turn the screw. This is not aby Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
QuoteGRAYWOLF One fail to hold print! For some reason no matter what I try (printbite included) the Prusa i3 X-Axis tensioner will not stay stuck to the platform! The part isn't ruined and is usable but some of the low layers are curved. Apart from that, everything has stayed attached! Judging by that picture you posted, you have some major over extrusion problems. Try knocking back the flow ratby Origamib - General
Re: appjaws-D-Bot progress - 8 years ago
Is there too much friction being placed on the Z motors? It's possible that if the motors are not true to the frame, then the screws are trying to bend to that angle, putting stress on the motors. This may be why they are running hot. Also, if they are not levelled, then this will cause the same problem. One of your pictures above shows the bed is angled slightly. This problem may also be thatby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: 10 lb Y Carriage - Geared Stepper Motor or Triple Stack Nema 17? - 8 years ago
Depends where you get the stepper drivers from.... cheap Chinese versions will probably struggle to do much. A conservative estimate is that they'l do 70% of advertised rate... Buy direct from pololu and they'll do better. Even then, this is all on paper... It's very dependant on how well you cool them. The little heat sinks you get do very little. Larger heat sinks may be needed. Or just buy a fby Origamib - Mechanics
Aluminium bed upgrade. - 8 years ago
So, I'm looking to upgrade my heated bed. Like most, I've started with a mk3 pcb heated bed with glass on top. It's great for PLA, rubbish for...everything else. Whilst I'm at it, I thought, why not upgrade everything on the Y axis? I'm looking to make this an upgrade in almost every possible way, power, weight, accuracy etc. So, in the spirit of discussion i thought I'd make this thread and thrby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: My advice on buying Open Builds Vslot in UK - 8 years ago
I've been making a lot of orders with ooznest recently, and I can only sing their praises. Had some problems with the anti backlash nuts and the guy personally tested the replacements for me and sent them out ASAP. Their delivery is a little pricey, but most small orders fit into the cheap Royal mail first class category.by Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Bowden PTFE tube with micro perforations. - 8 years ago
Why does it need to dry it as it is fed to the printer? Use an oven, or one of many other drying methods before you use the filament. This seems unnecessarily complicated to do. *edit * ptfe tube will not work, they are designed to be friction free, but perforations will mean you create friction. May aswell use any tube if that is the case. Also, the tube will insulate the filament, so it may neby Origamib - General
Re: Aluminum building platform with or without glass? - 8 years ago
Toughened glass works great, hardly off topic I'd say cost is not significant, and it deals better with temps we use. I ordered my custom piece locally, cost £8. They had to send it off for tempering, but it only took 2 days. I even cool the glass with a fan after using it to get the prints off quickerby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: High temperature insulation for hotend - 8 years ago
Silicone, Srek has a guide for making a silicone sleeve for an E3D. They are also shortly going to release an official silicone 'boot' for the E3D V6.by Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
Quoteanimoose This is a question from idle curiosity: I can see why you would need to use a higher bed temperature with PrintBite (it's a bit more insulation between the heater and the surface), but why does the hot end need to be hotter as well? Shouldn't that just affect the viscosity of the extruded plastic? Disclaimer: I am not a chemical engineer and probably talk nonsense about such thingsby Origamib - General
Re: One reason I hate to use 3D printed parts in my 3D printer - 8 years ago
Have you considered printing with stronger material? colorfabb XT or something similar. I know you have the 'all metal' mantra, but 3D printing technical parts can and should have its placeby Origamib - General
Re: 4988 vs DVR8825 on corexy printer - 8 years ago
Might have fried the steppers, it's a common problem. Keep some back ups handy, even if just for diagnosing printing problems.by Origamib - General
Re: MGN12 missing balls - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quoteo_lampe I got 3 linear rails from robotdigg. They are all showing one or more gaps in the row of balls. One rail is particularly bad with two gaps of 6-8mm each. Has anyone disassembled these rails and replaced or upgraded the balls? THX Olaf It sounds like Robotdigg isn't doing much to ensure the quality of the parts they are drop shipping from China. I'd definiby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Vertical Lines on my prints - 8 years ago
QuoteMechaBits Looks so precise i'd say it was electronic in nature, possibly those drivers...but i'm guessing If it is the drivers, running the print faster will get rid of this. DRV8825's only cause problems when they hit their 'deadzone', and they're not getting enough power. I run 2A motors, and I only get this if a line is printed at a slight slant so that the axis must travel very slowly.by Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: 1mx1m hot plate? - 8 years ago
Seems you have a lot of openbuilds stuff, Whats your cost so far on this build? Surely its gone well over $400?by Origamib - Mechanics
Re: A "wound" on surface - 8 years ago
I use simplify 3D and I've been trying to minimize z scar recently using the settings coast, retract, extra distance on restart and wipe nozzle. I have next to no Z scar anymore. The Z scar is essentially the pressure that has built up in the nozzle being released, even if you are not doing a printing move. Coasting in S3D (not sure on other slicers) stops the extrusion before the end of the linby Origamib - Printing
Re: Instructable on bed replacement/upgrade for 3D printing contest - 8 years ago
Very nice! did you also upgrade your power supply to see such a drop in heating times? I'm currently running 12v electronics, and I'm debating if a silicone heater will work well at 12v, or if 24v or even 240v and an SSR would be better in the long term. I'm going to be making a similar upgrade soon, although I'm still pondering on what to use as the bed support. I'm running openbuilds v slot,by Origamib - Look what I made!
Re: aliexpress dropping bearing and ball screw? - 8 years ago
QuoteDust that's BS, anything can be used in weapons production... I think the concern is more with nuclear arms, rather than general weaponry. It looks like they are trying to get rid of their source of high precision machinery. not that it will make much difference, its not exactly difficult for a country to just make their own CNC factory machines to make ball screws....by Origamib - General
Re: First 3D printer electronics with built-in WiFi released - 8 years ago
Is it possible to run a webcam off this board? As I type this, it sounds ridiculous but if it did, it would be a real octoprint competitor for me. Right now I use ramps 1.4 + octoprint for a similar set of features as the duet Wifi. I know of the other benefits of course (although many are only features for delta).by Origamib - General
Re: 1mx1m hot plate? - 8 years ago
You use a galaxy? Overpriced piece of plastic that, ive heard only the cool kids buy that cos apples sucks. I use a HTC one M8. Back to 3D printing. Ramps 1.4 struggles with anything other than 16x micro stepping.... On top of that, it struggles to run basic heaters, or 24v electronics. So you're going to need to use an SSR or similar components. Basically, ramps 1.4 does not work well forby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: steps per mm for belt driven leadscrews - 8 years ago
Maths is not my strong point unfortunately... Coincidentally, I had almost figured it out through weird backwards math in my head... Your method was much more straightforward though!by Origamib - Mechanics
Re: 1mx1m hot plate? - 8 years ago
Quoterowow QuoteOrigamib So, by my calculations ramps is not that cheap..... ramps = £5 arduino = £12 Drivers = £20 (£2 each, 5 are needed and 5 as a back up. you can go cheaper, I have tried but they break... I went for the slightly more expensive option and they are pretty decent actually) Raspberry pi = £30 (clones of the pi don't exist as far as I'm aware, they have a deal with the chip proby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: 1mx1m hot plate? - 8 years ago
So, by my calculations ramps is not that cheap..... ramps = £5 arduino = £12 Drivers = £20 (£2 each, 5 are needed and 5 as a back up. you can go cheaper, I have tried but they break... I went for the slightly more expensive option and they are pretty decent actually) Raspberry pi = £30 (clones of the pi don't exist as far as I'm aware, they have a deal with the chip providers so china can't cloby Origamib - Mechanics
steps per mm for belt driven leadscrews - 8 years ago
Just as the title says really, I'm looking to drive my z axis with a belt. I've searched around and all that google / the web shows up is the josef prusa calculators, which is great but says nothing about leadscrews+belts. So what is the calculation for figuring out the steps per mm? A bit of of info on my set up - 1.8 deg nema 17 (59Ncm I think, so should be beefy enough) 16x microstepping 1by Origamib - Mechanics