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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Impossible calibration due to extruder weight - 8 years ago
A counterweight won't do it, it is the axis bending in the middle. Upgrade to thicker rods, Or try and lower the weight of the gantry, but obviously this does not address the root of the problemby Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
That doesn't sound like Mutley3D, try messaging him on here or give it a few more days for a reply maybeby Origamib - General
Re: Help me pick a printer? - 8 years ago
That machine has a lot of basic problems... Like the belts arn't straight. This means they will get tighter towards the pulleys, and loose in the center. Also, using thin wood for a frame is bad as it bends and warps. Using open builds aluminium extrusion will make a very rigid printer, my open builds machine is capable of 40 microns resolution easily, and i achieved this within a few weeks of seby Origamib - General
Re: Using a DC booster for 24V on the heated bed only - 8 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD So the device you show above is a step up transformer 12v dc to 24v dc? I am not sure that's the right way to go, you will still have to supply it via the ramps board so you're still pulling 11A through the ramps, and we all know how much they like that, and that's your limit. The way I did this for my enlarged smartrapcore alu with 300x200 bed is to run the heated bed output to aby Origamib - General
Re: SPEED PLA VS. ABS - 8 years ago
I find once I have a good layer adhesion to the print bed, print speed is irrelevant. I set my printing speed based on the geometry of the print, more than I do on the material used. However, on small items a minimal layer time around 10-15 seconds is needed. PLA with good cooling does not.by Origamib - General
Re: New printer - first part - 8 years ago
I'm in the UK as well. I opted for ooznest, as actually once you add in the shipping ratrig is not really cheaper I found. Also, they don't stock the 2080 extrusion I needed for my machine. The wheels I ordered from aliexpress, otherwise they would have been the highest cost in my machine. I got 20 wheels for £20 (including shims, screws, lock nuts and bearings). I've recently ordered some wheelby Origamib - Look what I made!
Re: Help me pick a printer? - 8 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD There's a number of arguments and you'll get all of them in response to this question. 1) Buy a cheap chinese kit to learn on and tune/improve/develop/replace completely with decent parts - its cheap (at first), seriously time consuming but you learn a lot. 2) Buy an expensive printer to begin with, not time consuming but there will be very little learning about 3d printing until iby Origamib - General
Re: New printer - first part - 8 years ago
V slot is great stuff. my whole printer is made of the stuff and I couldn't be more happy with it really. The plates arn't too heavy, they weigh in around 74g each. I'm planning on chopping a few of mine up to lower the weight as I've just redesigned the extruder carriage to run on 2060 rather than 2080 v slot.by Origamib - Look what I made!
Re: Help me pick a printer? - 8 years ago
$700 is not a lot for a 3D printer, and you'll probably come to appreciate that when you build one. I'd say do yourself a favour and get a decent kit to begin with. on one of these chinese kits, you will replace almost every part to get good quality. The heat bed will be underpowered and slow to heat up and may not even reach ABS temps. The cheap E3D clones will almost certainly jam and cause proby Origamib - General
Re: 4988 Black Edition - 8 years ago
Possible cold solder? Basically, if the solder is done badly, it will crack and weaken and only work intermittently. You can fix this by reheating the solder on any suspect areas so it flows into the joint. It's highly possible that you fried something though. It doesn't take much heat to start doing damage sometimes. The key is to work quickly and efficiently when soldering I find. I suggest piby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Bed and Extruder heaters shut down mid print, common problem? - 8 years ago
It's possible the wires have started to come loose, or maybe a sharp bend has caused problems in the wiring that you can't see. You need to find out which heater is causing the issues. Try running a dry print (no filament) with just the extruder, and then just the heated bed. See which one causes the thermal runaway. If you use cheap electronics like ramps 1.4, it could also be a problem with aby Origamib - General
Re: Rubber filament wheels - 8 years ago
I use a 59Ncm direct drive extruder with a mk8 drive gear. No gearing, on a plastic extruder I designed myself. (similar to the design by Ffleurey on thingiverse, but designed to be smaller and stronger). This motor is probably overkill, most people use smaller especially if they use a geared extruder. I haven't had any problems so far, even on voronoi style prints. The only time my printer grounby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Simplify3d first print what do I do wrong - 8 years ago
Try printing slower. I usually print at 10-20% of my printing speed for the first layer, and also hotter by 10-15% for the first layer for PLA. but like others have said, you need to walk (or maybe crawl) before you run. Only change one setting at a time. Many factors affect the first layer adhesion such as nozzle distance, bed levelling, heat, surface treatment of the bed, speed etc.by Origamib - General
Re: Pancake stepper extruder - 8 years ago
Would it be worth looking at smaller nema motors, say nema 14, and then printing a plate to convert it to an E3D titan? It's hard to say if this would be worthwhile, as its hard to find exact weights of the motors online. I suppose it would be better to use a geared nema 14, but this means relying on possible inefficient gearing (But how good is the titan I wonder?) and its harder to mount the hoby Origamib - General
Re: Pancake stepper extruder - 8 years ago
QuoteKoko76 QuoteOrigamib What's the smallest motor possible for an extruder? Looking at the E3D titan, some people are claiming 18Ncm nema 17 motors, which weigh around 140g. Would this provide enough push on a 1.75mm filament? I'm dubious that this will do it, but my only experience is with my direct drive extruder, running a pretty beefy 59ncm motor. I'm pretty sure this is too much, but I'vby Origamib - General
Pancake stepper extruder - 8 years ago
What's the smallest motor possible for an extruder? Looking at the E3D titan, some people are claiming 18Ncm nema 17 motors, which weigh around 140g. Would this provide enough push on a 1.75mm filament? I'm dubious that this will do it, but my only experience is with my direct drive extruder, running a pretty beefy 59ncm motor. I'm pretty sure this is too much, but I've not had any problems soby Origamib - General
Re: PEI vs. BuildTak vs. PrintBite - 8 years ago
Quoteepicepee It sounds like the general consensus is: PEI is great, except for the occasional difficulty detaching. BuildTak is like PEI (when heated; I do have a heated bed) except cheaper and easier to damage. PrintBite does not adhere as strongly, especially to ABS. Anyone disagree? I have no experience of the others, so take of this what you want but printbite adheres extremely stronglyby Origamib - General
Re: [BuildLog] HexRap | Extrusion based 3D-Printer - 8 years ago
I feel that in that space, you could probably get a 300x200mm bed in at least, just by re-arranging the X axis a bit from the standard prusa design. you could keep the same footprint, but have a bigger bed. Or if you are content with a 200x200mm bed, than you can reduce the footprint of the entire machine. I used v slot as an example, but I'm sure I've seen designs use rods and be more compact. Oby Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
[UK] Printbite, toughnened glass, mk2b heat bed, openbuilds build plate. - 8 years ago
As the title says! I'm selling all of these as I'm upgrading to a 300mm alu bed, so trying to gauge interest in the following: -- 200x200mm printbite attached to a 4mm plate of toughened glass. -- £20 -- mk2b heatbed, soldered with a length of wire and 2 LEDs. -- £5 -- an openbuilds build plate. A great mounting option for v slot, or any build really. -- £10. Does not include postage costs,by Origamib - For Sale
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
QuoteMightyMouth It's all about getting it dialled in, Temperature, Nozzle Height and Extrusion Settings are all important, but for me (once my printer was set up right) Printbite has been the best 3D Printing purchase I have made other than the printer itself. I can vouch for this as well. Nozzle height was a surprising issue for me, found by an accidental discovery when I switched slicers. Bitby Origamib - General
Re: End of the roll - 8 years ago
I use a direct drive extruder and I havnt had any problems just following a piece of material in after the other, without pausing. you may see some under extrusion where the two join. You could just use the pause function and put the new colour/filament in as well, extrude a little bit to make sure its fine and carry onby Origamib - General
Re: [BuildLog] HexRap | Extrusion based 3D-Printer - 8 years ago
Is it just a prusa with an enclosure? Will the frame be attached to the enclosure for added rigidity? What's in the electronics compartment on the left? You could place the filament spool in there to make the design neater and save a bit more space. Will the enclosure be heated? Have you considered improving any other aspects of the prusa design? it's well worth looking into a single motor z axisby Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Printer with Small footprint - 8 years ago
Nice little printer design! Similar to this is the Indie I2, a really nice little v-slot printer that can pack away. Buy yourself some small lengths of v-slot and then salvage motors and parts from the other printer. Could probably make it really cheaply in this manner.by Origamib - General
Re: Printer with Small footprint - 8 years ago
Which axis can you get away with a bigger dimension, without her noticing? Eg, delta in Z axis, Prusa in Y axis. Looks smaller than it actually is Or, make a frame with extrusion that is only 10cm every dimension, and every now and then slowly upgrade it so she doesn't notice, till you have a machine with a 20cm build area Or get a new girlfriend, definately something to think aboutby Origamib - General
Re: The sounds of silence - 8 years ago
Will vibration dampers on the motors lower print quality? This is the only reason I havn't used these as I wonder if it will take the motor out of alignment slightly and cause belts to wear and have uneven travel.by Origamib - General
Re: Printing with ABS - 8 years ago
Quote3D2112 The questions: Exactly how bad is printing with ABS? - Not that bad, the fumes are really very minimal. Some reports state it emits a few carcinogens, but if these are at lethal levels is unknown. A single printer in a large room will have no problems, but if you are concerned then consider extra ventilation in the room. Is it enough to smell up the whole house? - Nope Will tby Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
Quotenebbian I can see that those blue parts that Origamib is printing has quite a bit of this effect showing. The recommendations above are to have the bed surface at 110-120 degrees for the first layer. What is the recommendation for subsequent layers? Are you supposed to then drop the temperature to 90 degrees? Or just live with the cave in? Can't say I've seen this problem? the pieces aby Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
QuoteTrhuster I will start testing this in a better way. Using this warp test part. I will post about my findings when i am done. That's a good idea, I'll see if I can do the same. Here's a picture of the warping: I'm pretty impressed still, as its most likely a cold spot there so its an issue with my machine and not PrintBite. What I do find impressive is that it didnt run down the rest oby Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
QuoteTrhuster QuoteOrigamib I'm surprised people have issues with this stuff, I received mine a few days ago and tried it out for the first time last night and wow does it stick! What I've noticed is that you need to level the bed slightly closer to get it to stick, normally I use gauges to level the hot end to 0.08mm away, but with this it's more like 0.06 is needed. I never liked the paper meby Origamib - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
I'm surprised people have issues with this stuff, I received mine a few days ago and tried it out for the first time last night and wow does it stick! What I've noticed is that you need to level the bed slightly closer to get it to stick, normally I use gauges to level the hot end to 0.08mm away, but with this it's more like 0.06 is needed. I never liked the paper method, far too inexact.by Origamib - General