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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Thoughts on a beginner CNC - 6 years ago
Buy a router and a guide rail for £100 and make the whole thing out of MDF. You could make grooves in the MDF that delrin rollers (or cheap DIY wheels of some sort) can roll in. The router can then be used on the machine afterwards. Don't expect a large build area, and don't expect great things. But it should do well enough to get someone started. Aside from that, how else can you make a CNC forby Origamib - General
Re: New Genuine J-Head™ 10 - release! Finally a Bowden J-Head! - 6 years ago
The original creator of J heads getting a screw loose over Chinese copies probably didn't help either...by Origamib - General
Re: Do delta machines still print in flat layers/slices? - 6 years ago
How about using a delta to print @ 45 degrees like the belt printers? Could be an interesting way of removing the need for supportby Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: New Genuine J-Head™ 10 - release! Finally a Bowden J-Head! - 6 years ago
QuoteValduare one of the great mysteries. best I can tell. people "want" to be able to print polycarbonate so they think they need 300C capability. at the cost of adding more points of failure and lesser printing experience I print colorfabb nGen at 250/240c. For this reason alone I need an all metal hotendby Origamib - General
Re: New Genuine J-Head™ 10 - release! Finally a Bowden J-Head! - 6 years ago
QuoteValduare it has a standard mounting groove No answer for the other points? What sets this apart? Does it only have a single mounting groove? Does this not allow for too much movement around the single groove?by Origamib - General
Re: Flexible Bed for any 3d printer - 6 years ago
230x300mm Definitely interestedby Origamib - General
Re: New Genuine J-Head™ 10 - release! Finally a Bowden J-Head! - 6 years ago
Looks great. Its nice to see development is still going on with the original J-heads, However what sets this apart from a normal hotend? There is absolutely no description on the page you link. How do I even mount it?by Origamib - General
Re: CoreXY stepper spacers... - 6 years ago
Bearings, shims, washers and Alu spacers. In the rare case that I don't have those I use printed spacers. Havn't noticed a downside to using printed spacers, but my posts are supported on both sides. If it is a post that is only supported by one side like the one pictured you'll definately want metal.by Origamib - Mechanics
Re: E3D's tool changing CoreXY design - 6 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I can't understand why anyone is still designing printers that use 4 screws to level the bed. Yeah, I know- autoleveling. If no effort is made to make the bed flat and level, when the autoleveling fails you're not going to print. A bed that size can easily be made flat and level and you can still use autoleveling if you feel you must have it, but you'll still be abby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Fan 1 pins are broken? - 6 years ago
As said, I tried multiple settings and it always comes on at 100% regardless of temperature and then shortly after stops quickly and will not start up again regardless of M106 settings. Fan 0 which I have now set up as a thermostatic fan does not do this.by Origamib - Duet
Fan 1 pins are broken? - 6 years ago
I used to have my fans set up so that the cold end fans were on the 'always on' pins. I tried to swap it to the Fan 0 instead and have thermostatic control, and then shuffle the part cooling fan to the next pins along (fan 1). The fan on fan 1 starts up at 100% and then immediately stops, no matter what settings I change it no longer spins after this but the fan will always start up again when Iby Origamib - Duet
Re: Filament recycling/making system for home usage - 6 years ago
Talking about plastic particles in water...by Origamib - General
Re: Duet Wifi SSR wiring for 'soft on' button. - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 1. Connect the negative SSR control terminal to PS_ON, and the positive control terminal to either +5V or +3.3V from the expansion connector. 2. I've never heard of an SSR leaking enough to start the sorts of power supplies used to power 3D printers. If it did, then the symptom would be that the power supply runs in very short bursts at regular intervals. A remedy would be to put a ligby Origamib - Duet
Re: Filament recycling/making system for home usage - 6 years ago
This method seems to be legitimately interesting: Agustin Flowalistik plastic recycling Rather then making tight toleranced plastic filament, make loose tolerance plastic sheet for other projects. Could be laser cut, CNCed, hand cut or get a line bender Ebay: Acrylic bender. Could be done by yourself, or as part of a larger effort with maker communities. No need for industrial recyclers, just soby Origamib - General
Duet Wifi SSR wiring for 'soft on' button. - 6 years ago
What I'm trying to achieve is an SSR to turn the duet off after a print using M81. I probably won't be supplying a 5v to the board, so as a work around I have a momentary switch at the front of the printer that allows the live to connect long enough to power the board and run M80 command. My main worries are: 1) Have I got the wiring right? I'm following this guide: http://doc.3dmodularsystemby Origamib - Duet
Re: Z axis gantry vs Z axis printbed - 6 years ago
The biggest challenge with an XYZ moving gantry is keeping it rigid. A flat bed on Z is easy to keep rigid and can be kept relatively light as a result. With an XYZ frame you have a square that will act a bit like a picture frame when you take the glass out. You can reinforce it, but in practice its a lot easier to have a bed that moves in Z.by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Filament recycling/making system for home usage - 6 years ago
I'm very surprised to see comments against/neutral in regards to recycling in this thread... In this day and age its ridiculous to think "it'l sort itself out". Just because something decomposes, does not mean it is not damaging to the environment. You might not personally chuck it in the sea, but where do you think it goes when you put it in the bin? The recycling center won't touch it as thereby Origamib - General
Re: Filament recycling/making system for home usage - 6 years ago
I quite like the idea of using old prints / scrap plastic to make sheet material for CNC machining and laser cutting. The quality of the plastic is really not important and you may even be able to use 100% recycled materialby Origamib - General
Re: CoreXY - 6 years ago
Quoteo_lampe Quote I have had no problem enclosing a printer with them as the actual wheel assembly does not protrude further then the extrusion itself. V-wheels without a supporting backplate? Hmmm.. it's like single side mounted idlers. Three answers, three opinions. I somehow expected that Correct, but does it matter if the wheel posts bend away from the plate slightly? You can still remoby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Terminology: "RepRap" that can't print itself, but CAN print others? - 6 years ago
Seeing as 99% of repraps can't print ALL their own parts, I think the term reprap is quite misleading anyway.... To be honest I think most people have come to accept that reprap is an evolving term, and these days any hobbyist or small scale led initiative that is open source falls under the term reprap.by Origamib - General
Re: CoreXY - 6 years ago
In my opinion v slot wheels are just as good as slides. I have had no problem enclosing a printer with them as the actual wheel assembly does not protrude further then the extrusion itself. This means I can bolt panels to the same extrusions used for the wheels with no problems. My main gripe is that the form factor is much larger then mgn rails. This is somewhat offset by the flexibility of thby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Virtual Reality Omni-Shoes - 6 years ago
A bit of googling suggests that even small diameter flexible shafts can carry 60 lb-in torque. The main issue will be motors and weight... That backpack looks HEAVY! It also looks like it defeats the object of the project -- Total VR immersion. I don't usually walk around with a heavy backpack on. How hard would it be to make a walking platform? Concave surface covered in ptfe maybe? Or perhapsby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Gravity and Jerk, which is the greater force in 3D printing? - 6 years ago
I imagine that jerk will be more about rigidity and how you mount your components, rather then its orientation. You can have no (or limited) bowing and still have a lightweight gantry. Don't forget coreXY is more forgiving with weight as it is using 2 motors for most moves and its belt arrangement means that rapid jerk is absorbed by the belts, rather then your structural components.by Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Rescue my PEI build surface - 6 years ago
I recently bought fake PEI. I painted it in black stove paint and then attempted to cure the paint in the oven (as per the DC42 IR probe guide) but it melted and crumpled as soon as it went in the oven. Probably polycarbonate sheet. Wouldn't be surprised if that's what you haveby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Gravity and Jerk, which is the greater force in 3D printing? - 6 years ago
You are creating a compromise between bowing and jerk? Why? Why not just design it to have the best of both worlds? There are many compromises in 3D printing, but this doesn't have to be one of them.by Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Large CoreXY Z Lift - 6 years ago
Quoteoz9ny Quotethe_digital_dentist That sounds like a great idea. It only needs to move up and down a little. so it might be easiest to do using a solenoid and lever. A simple gcode post-processing script could be used to insert lift/drop commands into the gcode file to drive a solenoid. Just add lift after every retraction and drop just before extrusion restarts Problem with a selenoid is tby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: thoughts on this design - 6 years ago
What sort of temperatures are you hoping to achieve in your chamber? If it is for ABS, you will likely be happy with 40-60c and I don't think the fabric will be necessary unless you want to make the chamber heater very efficient. If you are aiming for 60c+, then it will be a nice touch as it will also have the added effect of keeping the mechanics cool so they don't bind at the higher temperatureby Origamib - General
Re: V large 3d build advice - 6 years ago
Sounds good I'm happy to help - - always interesting to wrap your head around new problems. It may be worth looking into the disposable foam bed idea developed by digitaldentist. The nozzle plunges into the foam for the first few layers. The plastic makes a bond with the foam and the straightness of the gantry dictates how flat the print is, so no need to level the foam bed. The first layer isby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: thoughts on this design - 6 years ago
QuoteMKSA You are half way to a Ultimaker. Keep going. Why? Ultimaker has weight limitations that a standard axis does not. It also relies on the use of rods and bearings and the slop associated unless you buy quality Standard cartesian designs have the advantage of easily adding extra tools, direct drive or even multiple X gantriesby Origamib - General
Re: Kossel custom build problems with Z axis - 6 years ago
Is this all Haydn ball studs, or only older ones? I was not aware of such an issueby Origamib - Delta Machines