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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: V large 3d build advice - 6 years ago
Here's what I would do. This is by no means the only way, but feel free to use the ideas: Standard Cartesian motion, nothing fancy. My gut feeling is that trying to compensate for the huge belt distances in CoreXY, and then trying to align the pulleys so that the belts don't ride up will be your worst nightmare. To that end, I'd create a rack and pinion design for the longest axis, the shorteby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: V large 3d build advice - 6 years ago
I'm not sure coreXY would work over larger distances. Would belt stretch be an issue? At the very least getting the pulleys all on the same plane would be difficult. With such a large machine though the weight savings of CoreXY will be very minimal (your XY gantry may weigh a few kgs, so adding a 300g motor is not a big deal. Perhaps a rack and pinion or belt and pinion design would be easier tby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: thoughts on this design - 6 years ago
Sure, looks like a good arrangement. The Y axis motor may be in an awkward place though as it will impact on max travel distance of the XY gantry. It also means that both your pulleys and motor positions have to be very accurate in relation to each other otherwise the long connecting shaft will be bent. A similar solution would be to have the motor attached to the shaft with a small closed loop bby Origamib - General
Re: V large 3d build advice - 6 years ago
Quotechromaglow Thank you all sooooo much for the responses!!!!!! This dialog is just what I needed. I am totally capable of researching and building a thing once I know what the known's are but here I have been completely out of my element. I am printing PLA in thin pieces no thicker than 8mm .2/.3 mm layer height For this reason I started out thinking I should make a cartesian printer. Also foby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: V large 3d build advice - 6 years ago
You can't scale up a cr10. There are so many reasons why you can't its almost not worth listing, but give a quick Google on the deflection values of the materials you want to use and you'll soon find out one of the reasons. You will redesign so many components that you may aswell start the design from scratch. What material are you printing in? The shrinking and warping of almost any plastic atby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Things you should buy when starting with a 3D-Printer... 
- 6 years ago
Probably a good place to put this.... Safety goggles! Turned on my dremel today and the shank snapped and flew across the room at god-knows-how-many RPM. It didn't touch any material, I literally turned it on for a second and SPPPWEFAKSJDF there's a dent in my wall now. Even filing or removing support material can cause horrible injuries to your eye, and you will not blink quick enough to stoby Origamib - General
Re: Volcano hot-end, any good on normal size printer? - 6 years ago
Sure why not? If you like to fill your print volume then a volcano will always help. A print that fills your print volume will still take 24+ hours with a normal nozzle so volcano will be advantageous. It also depends what you print.. Smooth mechanical parts will be great, detailed models not so much. I'd rather keep the 0.4 nozzle personally for its versatility Edit - just seen what you are asby Origamib - General
Re: Things you should buy when starting with a 3D-Printer... - 6 years ago
Realise that nearly everything is a consumable on your printer, and stock spares. Always buy multiples. As for tools though... Calipers Feeler gauges good set of spanners ball ended Allen keys The above is for printer maintenance, but when designing parts for printing I would also add: Dremel for finishing prints, cutting custom screw lengths etc heat set inserts lacquerby Origamib - General
Re: PLA Warping? - 6 years ago
Similarly, how many perimeters does the box have? This could also cause lift. It sounds backwards, but a raft might help. The raft will insulate the print so that there is not as much of a temperature gradient in the print itselfby Origamib - General
Re: PLA Warping? - 6 years ago
I recently bought some fake PEI. I was using it with an IR probe and so had to cure black spray paint that I applied to the sheet in the oven. The sheet instantly melted and curled. I can't remember my oven temps now, but I do remember it being significantly lower then the glass point of PEI by 20-30c. I calibrated with an external thermometer (not with the oven thermostat). It could also be thaby Origamib - General
Re: Would anyone find this simple upgrade useful? - 6 years ago
Store your filament with dessicant... I use lockable tupperware containers with about 100g of colour indicating dessicant in the bottom. This is swapped out when it changes colour, which has only happened a few times in the space of a year as the tub is always locked when not in use. I have 6 tubs, each stores 4 spools of filament. The tubs cost about £20 each which is expensive but the cost hasby Origamib - General
Re: Automatic Part Removal Using Ejector Pins like injection moulding. - 6 years ago
QuoteTrakyan Following off the use of a ram idea, why not use the x assembly as a ram to knock the print off the bed? Should be just a G-code post script away for most printers and as long as you have a surface that doesn't stick the print down too well it shouldn't harm the printer. The potential to harm the printer is certainly there though... If it was me I'd like to beef up the X assembly toby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Threaded Inserts - 6 years ago
I have printed screw threads a few times to much success down to around m5, you could probably go smaller. Works on any plane as well (with the layers or along them). Also used threaded inserts from ebay which worked really well. Captive nut designs are also useful, and often work better. The only downside is that it slows down your printing output and inserts are quicker if making batch parts.by Origamib - General
Re: Automatic Part Removal Using Ejector Pins like injection moulding. - 6 years ago
Will the holes create surface defects? Will surface adhesion be affected? I would prefer to use well dialed in PrintBite or similar that releases the part at low temperatures, and then you can just use a ram to push parts off. Would be cheaper to make aswell and could use printed parts and mechanismsby Origamib - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage - 6 years ago
Quoteo_lampe I'm a bit confused about the enclosure heater thing in general: Say your enclosure is heated up by the print bed only. The environment temp would climb up to a certain level. It will reach this peak, because the bed heater will heat less and less, the higher the environment temp is. Now you want to raise the environment temp even more, say +20°C. Wouldn't that in turn mess up the conby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: New release of GCodePrintr 3D print app - 6 years ago
What is your app? No explanation of what it is or what it runs onby Origamib - General
Re: Towards printer-independent GCode - 6 years ago
QuoteWesBrooks STL isn't far of a raw mesh. It's a bit of a crappy format given today's computing power, even on raspberry pies. There's no information on shared vertexes. The only information is a huge sequence three coordinate sets. Most stl object handlers that I've worked with post process the files with assumptions to try and rebuild the connectivity information. I get the impression this wby Origamib - General
Re: DemonDeltaTube - A delta inside an acrylic tube... Build - 6 years ago
The other option perhaps is to mount the tube in a vice with a column in the middle, a probe attached to each guide is then used to test if it is straight against the central column. This will at least let you know if each guide is straight relative to each other non straight guides will need jigging around and shims used etc. Drilling mounting holes accurately is not necessarily needed, as loby Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: iKessel - Kossel XL with ikea enclosure - 6 years ago
QuoteVigilant Hmm I've been thinking on how to make a heated build chamber as simple as possible with my current setup. I have a 500W silicon heater and I thought i could probably use that as the heating element instead of a separate one. A blower blows the air below the heated bed. A PID control loop controls the PWM of the blower fan based on the thermistor temperature connected to E1. Seemsby Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: DemonDeltaTube - A delta inside an acrylic tube... Build - 6 years ago
I would be very tempted to use one of your piezo probes on a sturdy makeshift gantry to map the inside of the tube. This means you can then print an accurate jig for the bottom and the top as well as print flat surfaces for linear guides to attach to the inside of the tubeby Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Towards printer-independent GCode - 6 years ago
Quotedeckingman QuoteOrigamib I have to say, am I missing something? Is slicing something people don't like doing? I find it is not an excessively annoying part of my tool chain............. All true. The only thing I can say is that with the multiple hot end options that I have (3 colour, 5 colour, 0.5mm, 0.9mm etc), I end up with a lot of duplicated gcode files which were generated from theby Origamib - General
Re: Towards printer-independent GCode - 6 years ago
I have to say, am I missing something? Is slicing something people don't like doing? I find it is not an excessively annoying part of my tool chain. S3D slices very quickly allowing me to rapidly see which settings are best... Often I will change settings such as perimeters, overhang speed and infill. Sometimes I will even change infill based on layer height to save on filament. I honestly thiby Origamib - General
Re: Towards printer-independent GCode - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 QuoteOrigamib Personally, I'm not sure i see the need for gcode rather then .stl files. If settings are a problem then shouldn't we be looking to make hardware advances that eliminate settings? Eg, bed levelling to eliminate z Offsets and other first layer settings. Many settings - in particular, appropriate speeds - are very dependent on the machine. QuoteOrigamib What does gcode solby Origamib - General
Re: Towards printer-independent GCode - 6 years ago
How about making gcode post processors to modify settings? As we step into more elaborate printing, these post processors are quite useful anyway. Personally, I'm not sure i see the need for gcode rather then .stl files. If settings are a problem then shouldn't we be looking to make hardware advances that eliminate settings? Eg, bed levelling to eliminate z Offsets and other first layer settingsby Origamib - General
Re: Y-belt gone? - 6 years ago
QuoteTrakyan The OP mentioned a clicking, this could also point to a stepper losing steps. Are the layer shifts big, like a couple of mm? Or just small ridges? Since this is the y axis of an i3, I'm inclined to think you need to turn down jerk and acceleration. Just thinking about it now, a belt skipping teeth isn't exactly what I'd call a click, but a stepper skipping steps is. Just another thiby Origamib - General
Re: Y-belt gone? - 6 years ago
So basically check everything along the belts path. Your pulleys and idlers should be straight and moving freely. If they are not straight you will see the belt move backwards and forwards slightly as it rides up and down the pulley. Check the motor and pulley, you may find the grubb screw has come loose. Check your belt tensioner, or the place where the belt secures to the carriage it may havby Origamib - General
Re: Y-belt gone? - 6 years ago
Its hard to destroy a belt, If it is you'd know. You would be able to see the fibres inside and the rubber would be crumbling away. Your description seems to be pointing to idlers, motors, pulleys or tensioners. Check these points first just to be sure. Other then that GT2 6mm belt is the most common. How much you need is dependant on the printer, but I'd recommend ordering more then you thinkby Origamib - General
Re: Software and electronics for lasers - 6 years ago
Quotecozmicray I was given a simple 1.5w laser engraver for Christmas. I won't tell you what brand it is or include any pictures so it is easy for you to reply.It's great fun but it has some obvious drawbacks. I'd be quite interested to strap the laser into a proper machine.Like a cooper mini! or Haas CNC machine I could take the electronics from my current engraver, but without much knowledge ofby Origamib - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Software and electronics for lasers - 6 years ago
Hi VDX, Thanks for the info. I was not aware you could create g code from inkscape, I'll check it out. Are there any 'off the shelf' solutions such as ramps/marlin for 3D printing? Im not against the total Diy option, but my level of effort for this little laser was to strap it into a decent XY gantry with (if possible) fairly similar electronics to what I normally use, eg, ramps or duet etc.by Origamib - Laser Cutter Working Group
Software and electronic boards for lasers - 6 years ago
I was given a simple 1.5w laser engraver for Christmas. It's great fun but it has some obvious drawbacks. I'd be quite interested to strap the laser into a proper machine. I could take the electronics board from my current engraver, but without much knowledge of what it is, the motor drivers etc I have a feeling it won't do. What electronics boards work well, as well as firmware and software foby Origamib - Laser Cutter Working Group