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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Hotend design question - 6 years ago
So you are proposing a hot point, instead of a hot block? The advantage of having a heating block, is that the relatively large block of aluminium holds the heat well, meaning you can push more filament through before the block loses too much heat and causes extrusion issues. Basically, the bigger the block the more stable your heat output is. A smaller block, or thermal lance, would surely neeby Origamib - General
Re: Hotend design question - 6 years ago
Is your question in reference to hotends, extruders or both? Hotend design is limited by size, production method, components (thermistor and heating element) as well as a plethora of other things. The heating block serves a very specific function and its hard to imagine an alternative. As for material choice, the fact that aluminium dissipates heat is a desirable quality as it also means heat tby Origamib - General
Re: We need a magazine - 6 years ago
It could work but.... We all learnt from forums, YouTube and online articles. Your core target market is well versed with, and prefers, online media. New users and professionals may turn to a magazine, but to begin with your core audience will be die hard reprappers until it becomes established. Not to mention that making money from such a venture would be quite hard. This is especially true wby Origamib - General
Re: What is a quieter alternative to 50mm blower fan for part cooling? - 6 years ago
QuoteDoc7 Thank you Origamib. I will bear that in mind...now i at least know the ballpark. I'm curious about your setup though...what's your experience with cooling from opposing sides? I've read that they pretty much cancel each other out, never experimented myself though. I'm not sure. People who say they know are most likely talking out their butt... take it all with a pinch of salt. It's verby Origamib - General
Re: What is a quieter alternative to 50mm blower fan for part cooling? - 6 years ago
I use a set of fans that have a combined output of 2.2 cfm (1.1 cfm each) and can still print in PLA with good overhangs. I have a small duct on them with an opening around 10mm wide DJdemonD and co sell them on their site -- https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/product-page/sunon-blower-radial-fan-5v out of stock at the moment, but I'm sure we can convince him to get some more... I know I'd buy agby Origamib - General
Re: Lost wax casting prints - 6 years ago
Build an SLA printer? Legitimately more useful then a pellet extruder machine or niche wax-extruders. You can get casting resins used for jewellery that are for SLA machines. Perhaps a bit costly, but probably cheaper then the inevitable research and design costs of a wax extruder. Or why not make a mould of your printed part? Then you can make it in a range of materials that are more suitableby Origamib - General
Re: Steampunk extruder feasible? - 6 years ago
There are delrin leady screw nuts out there that you can buy. Most notably are the openbuilds ones around £10 each. You can also buy them from more expensive companies, and I'm sure China have them. With your unique plan though, you may want a custom nut to stay in keeping with the design. I've seen people make these by heating up the screw and then melting two blocks of delrin onto it. The resuby Origamib - Reprappers
Laser safety - 6 years ago
So this Christmas I'm treating myself to a laser. Nothing crazy, probably a 1.5watt or 2.5watt laser diode for engraving and light cutting. I'll either strap it to the printer or make a machine specifically for it. The problem is, Safety Googles seem expensive to come by. RS components sell them for £100+ and I'm debating whether I can trust cheapo Chinese brands with vague descriptions. What arby Origamib - General
Re: Belt Tensioner , do you recommend ? - 6 years ago
Clothes peg springs add backlash - - everytime the motor changes direction, it allows the spring to go slack before tightening again. It might not be much, but it's certainly more then the thermal expansion of the belt in different temperature ranges your printer throws at it. If thermal expansion is really an issue (it's not) then thermally shielding the belt somehow would be your first go to.by Origamib - General
Re: Heated Bed Thermistor reading far too high - 6 years ago
My suggestion would be to wire in a new thermistor. Thermistors break easily due to the thin wires, eventually you will have to replace it anyway.by Origamib - General
Re: Small nozzle printing best practises - 6 years ago
I have also noticed heat build up in small objects. It's very hard to get rid of, but a well ducted fan is your best bet. I've recently had to fine-tune my cooling for some baubles that I print in vase mode, and my ducts have dealt with them very well. I have noticed wide ducts do better then narrow, and they want to be well directed at the top of the nozzle (or just before the nozzle) to reallyby Origamib - General
Re: Plagarism in the open source field - 6 years ago
QuotePDBeal But one thing to note, it's not your file that he's claiming was his own. The bell from your file is different dimension-ally so whether he adapted your file or recreated your file, it's not an exact copy of your file, so your sandwich analogy does not fit. Sure, it sucks he might be claiming your design, but I've taken some original parts from my 3D printer that someone else designby Origamib - General
Re: Dual motor and belt on Z - 6 years ago
If you need more power, using 1 motor give you the opportunity to gear up. Use a small pulley on the motor, and larger ones on the screws. It lowers maximum speed but this isn't important on Z. Also still cheaper then 2 motors.by Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Effector stowage or parking idea for Delta - 6 years ago
Your magnets only need to be strong enough to keep the arms up when in close proximity to them and this will stop the magnets causing pull on the carriages as they get close during printing. If the difference between rising and falling is the friction caused by thick or thin grease, you'll only need some weak magnets. You could experiment with magnet strength by placing more or less material beby Origamib - General
Re: Effector stowage or parking idea for Delta - 6 years ago
My very first thought was the same as dc42, a simple bracket to simply park the effector on. Anything motorised is just overly complicated. However, what would be wrong with magnets? 3 magnets on the upper brackets of the towers and 1 in each carriage means that when you are at the upper limits of Z, they simply attach to the magnets. The motors should be strong enough to detach themselves. Useby Origamib - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
QuoteTrakyan I think there are still (expensive) improvements to be made in reliability, like servo control and for ease of use I think some printers like the craftbot have prusa and the others beat in terms of easy to use. LCD displays with click wheels aren't hard to use, but a full color touch screen is much easier and more intuitive for people who have never touched a 3d printer. They have maby Origamib - General
Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 6 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD That's very kind we'd be very grateful. I have spoken to one person about chimera. Whichever is the one with two nozzles might not be helped much by piezo in that they will both have to be at the same level and you'll need a physically flat and orthogonal bed to not scrape the non working nozzle? Or am I overstating it, I haven't used one. If you talk about idex or something like thby Origamib - General
Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 6 years ago
I'm not that fussed, as long as delivery is consistent and reliable. If a retailer tells me 2 days but it arrives a week later that annoys me, saying that though it's a great surprise when something arrives early. On another note, have you designed any mounts for chimera / cyclops? Piezo seems to be the way forward here with the hot swappable nozzles, no need to worry if a new nozzle is level asby Origamib - General
Re: Plagarism in the open source field - 6 years ago
Your bell was very difficult to replicate. it took me at least 5 minutes to model, and the render took 3 minutesby Origamib - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
If you want cheapest viable product, just copy China? They've already done it a hundred times. The real issue here though, is that the product model doesn't work for general users who have no experience. This is the real reason we don't have a printer in every home - Chinese printers are rubbish. Every compromise you make is a compromise on the user experience, and that is fundamental to gettinby Origamib - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
People who are new to the hobby need reliability... They have started with an idea of what they want to print, and if they can't print it the hobby will suck and they'll move on. If the machine doesn't work as they thought it would, £200 is too much. Any decision that impacts reliability needs to be seriously thought about. So, to me, heated beds and proper motors are a must. Linear rails and 32by Origamib - General
Re: Plagarism in the open source field - 6 years ago
The world of 3D printing is a strange one, who knows what will make money? Its opened up a large number of possibilities for weird hobbies -- Including bell lovers? If you have enough twitter clout, it seems the best way is to name and shame. At the very least the drama of social media will give you more viewers / patreon tips / etsy sells, even if the thief never comes to justice. To everyonby Origamib - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
QuoteTrakyan I wasn't really asking for printer recommendations on what to buy, and there are chinese kits that work pretty reliably out of the box, monoprice, wanhao and so on. I was looking for answers to this question not from a hobbyist, one off perspective, but as if you were to manufacture a printer, that means making those decisions (in which case the toy motors cost cents and nemas stillby Origamib - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
QuoteTrakyan I'm just curious as to what people's idea would be of a "perfect" entry level printer in terms of cost and features. Entry level here meaning people with no experience, no history with 3d printing that don't really know if they want to fully dive into the hobby, or kids wanting to enter the hobby but have no prior experience. Price is a big one I'm keeping in mind, even a couple ofby Origamib - General
Re: Support and motion for huge 100x60 mic8 bed - 6 years ago
Quoteetfrench Why would you want to move the bed instead of the extruder/hotend? The bed is moving in Z. Arguably an easier feat to do then moving an XY gantry in Z.by Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Large scale (12") 3d printer as my first one...please help 
- 6 years ago
After the recent business practices of Tevo have come to light, I would avoid them like the plague. They obviously don't care about their customers, or the community that makes their business possible in the first place. Other then that, I would also say that he possibility to enclose a printer and a bed moving in Z is a big plus. The actual quality of all these printers is roughly the same andby Origamib - General
Re: Dual extrusion setup - Which to choose? - 6 years ago
I'm not sure I like splitter systems for multi material. It relies on the temperature profiles being the same, or finding some sort of compromise between the material profiles. Large retractions needed also introduce a source of error and it generally has to be done on a bowden system. Capricorn bowden tubes have helped the issues surrounding bowden systems, but I hear that the large retractionsby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Batch Printing and alternative methods - 6 years ago
I would agree with sorting out adhesion problems. Printing in series is fine, but it means you will be printing less as you're limited by the shape and size of your gantry to avoid collisions as you move to the next part. Not to mention if a part comes loose you still risk spaghetti, other parts being knocked off and bits thrashing your nozzle as they stick to it. Sort out adhesion and you can sqby Origamib - General
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 6 years ago
A nice little feature of these 5v 30mm blower fans is that they have a metal body and a plastic cover. The plastic cover un-clips easily meaning you can actually print your own cover. It's a little thing, but it means the duct integrates into the fan quite well. It also means that you can modify the inlet diameter and see what affect that has on backflow. As far as I am aware, Air is sucked in atby Origamib - General
Re: how to select the best cooling fan for my delta - 6 years ago
Quotefrankvdh 30mm blower fans are *way* more expensive (~$8 each on AliExpress, vs $1.25 for a 50mm one), and 12V ones aren't common, (Hopefully someone will point me to a cheaper source!) and do half the airflow (1.85CFM vs 3.6CFM for a 50mm). So I (being a cheapskate) would always go for 1 * 50mm fan over 2 * 30mm fans. OTOH, 3.6CFM is way too much for print cooling, so probably 1 * 30mm fanby Origamib - Delta Machines