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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: how to select the best cooling fan for my delta - 6 years ago
I think speed should not dictate fan effectiveness... Just turn the fan on intelligently. In S3D you can set bridging parameters to apply over a wider area then just the bridge itself, meaning your fan will have time to come on in full force. A fan that is already on will also get to max output quicker, so consider very low cooling for the rest of the print and only turn it up for the bridge. Iby Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Using nozzle as Z-Probe with a rocker mechanism (ARTICLE) - 6 years ago
QuotePurpleSensation It's a nice idea. But I'm pretty sure that I have already reached the max quality allowed by my nozzle width, nema motors and delta geometry. The theoretical accuracy I reach is the one provided by those parameters. And the surface quality is probably the best that a PLA printer of 0.4 nozzle can reach, all those pieces showed in the paper were printed by this printed itselfby Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Using nozzle as Z-Probe with a rocker mechanism (ARTICLE) - 6 years ago
It's a nice paper, have you considered making it an experimental approach? Take the same machine with another type of sensor, and then the same machine again but this time with an aluminium bed and no sensor. Which gets the best prints?by Origamib - Delta Machines
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 6 years ago
For those who wanted my fan shroud designs, here they are. I apologize for how long its taken me to do this... Utter laziness on my part. Fan shroud designs This has mounts for 40 and 30mm fans, as well as one for a 4mm pipe duct if you use pressurised air. I've only really tested the 40mm, but I will soon have the 30mm up and running and will update as I know more. If you do happen to test tby Origamib - General
Re: Printing problem - 6 years ago
Bed levelling or retraction.... most likely bed levelling given your description of 'too high for the circles'. Spend some time levelling it. Those Mk2b heaters like to warp over time, or between heat cycles... What is your levelling system? I use a feeler gauge rather then paper as it can't be squished under the nozzle and you can ensure it is always accurate. I use a 0.25mm feeler gauge andby Origamib - General
Re: Development corexy - 6 years ago
Quoteandornot QuoteOrigamib Quoteandornot i have decided to build a d-bot, its for son's christmas present and i will get a better understanding of corexy machines. Does anybody have experience of building such a machine and any improvements to it? That's a shame... your machine looked better then a Dbot. V slot wheels and printed plates are not a great combination in my opinion. The heavy preby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Unpluggable Hotend - 6 years ago
E3D sell thermistors and heater cartridges with connectors... Quite handy actually, but as digital dentist said it is still not the perfect answer. I tried flex cable but I wasn't happy with having to fit a small pcb near the hotend to put the connectors on. If we are talking about cabling nirvana though, the delta carriages by dc42 must come very close! All the electronics integrated into the cby Origamib - General
Re: Development corexy - 6 years ago
Quoteandornot i have decided to build a d-bot, its for son's christmas present and i will get a better understanding of corexy machines. Does anybody have experience of building such a machine and any improvements to it? That's a shame... your machine looked better then a Dbot. V slot wheels and printed plates are not a great combination in my opinion. The heavy pre load you must place on theby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: PETG Glue - 6 years ago
I have used epoxy, super glue and plastic glues on nGen, which is a pet based plastic. All work, and all seem to work equally well with epoxy probably being the strongest, but all create a stronger bond then the actual strength of the print. Make sure to prep and clean the surface to be glued.. Superglue is fussy about this *expensive superglue works better then cheap stuff as well... The gorilby Origamib - General
Re: Printing Functional Machine Screw Threads with Carbon - 6 years ago
I have found PET based nGen prints threads well... My last project was some legs for a desk organiser, and the bases of each foot had a thread and nut to adjust the height of the legs.by Origamib - General
Re: 3D scanning - 6 years ago
What sort of resolution do you need, what are you scanning? If particularly high resolution is not needed, maybe check out 3Dhubs or maybe get it modelled by a CAD designerby Origamib - General
Re: Development corexy - 6 years ago
I'm currently in the final design stages of a CoreXY, with similar goals to yours. Watch out for how much space 2x direct drive extruders take up. You soon find that the build table is too big and you lose printing space... it looks like this may happen to you. As for the Z lift on the hotends themself, only one of them needs to do this and the other can be stationary. The secondary hot end (theby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: PLA and ABS vs food safety? - 6 years ago
Quotecwaa So wood is unsafe to eat out of? Wow, you really want an answer don't you? Try googling the answer, this thread died a while back. Wood is naturally antibacterial... Plastic isn't. What the 'safe' level of bacterial growth on your cutlery is up to you. With the volume of open space inside a printed object though it could quickly become a factory for bacteria. I'll take my wooden spoonby Origamib - General
Re: If you could get any part AT COST - What would you want? - 6 years ago
Cheap aluminium extrusion... Very hard to get in the UK. V slot is available but its made from cheap aluminium. Cheap mounting plates would also be useful if people are to start switching from printed parts to metal. (eg, nema 17/23 mounting plates, or plates to mount screws/rods). Other hard to get items are lead screws and ball screws as well as matching high quality nuts/bearings to pair witby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 6 years ago
Just solder it in to the heat bed wires and then attach the fuse to the heated bed... How you do that is up to you, badly mounting it will make the fuse ineffective. Perhaps some episodes epoxy putty?by Origamib - General
Re: PLA and ABS vs food safety? - 6 years ago
What is it with this thread that makes it so great for necro posts?by Origamib - General
Re: Software axis orthogonality compensation in Marlin? - 6 years ago
Sounds great, but isn't it easier to just make a square printer to begin with? This is a similar argument to bed levelling, but that I understand as it removes the need for a calibration step that users don't want. Orthoganility should just be a thing from the start and never need to be corrected.by Origamib - General
Re: Promega 3d Printer - 6 years ago
Have you looked up reviews of their last printer? Awful bit of kit. I understand they are 2 products marketed at very different ends of the spectrum, but to me this implies a company who like to cut corners. Also I can't find a single picture that isn't a render, does the machine even exist yet? Given the sales of the last printer couldn't they afford to make the printer, do some real photos andby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: applying silkscreen ink without a paste extruder? - 7 years ago
Quotesungod3k I want to use the ink in the pen and yes a paste extruder that feeds ink into the pen would be the ideal solution but I want to exhaust the simple solutions first. The pen would draw directly on the shirt, so cutting stencils and then manual painting could be avoided. Apart from that your idea with the blade in the print head is interesting. I saw that once on a cnc where the blby Origamib - General
Re: applying silkscreen ink without a paste extruder? - 7 years ago
I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to achieve. Is the pen following a path to make a pattern on the t shirt? Is more then one colour being used? Are you using the ink in the pen, or using it as a means to apply a paste? Why not just make a paste extruder? What are the advantages of doing it this way? Why not just make a manual silk screen set up? Could use printer for making stencilsby Origamib - General
Re: Heat effects the z-offset when using Capacitive Sensor - 7 years ago
If the capacitive sensor is affected by heat, then try and keep it away from the heat? Move to Z max or if possible on your printer move it in y/x off the heat bed while heating up. Probe when hot and make sure your probing sequence is optimised for speed before the probe can heat up itself.by Origamib - General
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build - 7 years ago
QuoteZasquatch It may not be that easy, these are the titan aeros, which have the heat sink built into the extruder. I will reach out to e3d for ideas, hadn't thought of that!! QuoteOrigamib QuoteZasquatch 2" x 5" x .125" thk Not sure if my nozzle leveling idea is the best, if there are suggestions I'd like to hear them. Right now just planning to machine ovals for the stepper and mounting holby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build - 7 years ago
QuoteZasquatch 2" x 5" x .125" thk Not sure if my nozzle leveling idea is the best, if there are suggestions I'd like to hear them. Right now just planning to machine ovals for the stepper and mounting holes... loosen the whole titan, drop to a spacer on the bed, and tighten. Repeat for second extruder. Simple but not sure how it will work practically. One of the screws for the motor on the titby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: Re-using Hot end cooling air to cool object? - 7 years ago
It is certainly possible but it's a compromise. PLA will be more difficult as you cannot control how much part cooling there is as the hot end always needs cooling to stop jams. The first few layers will be cooled and may effect adhesion of nearly any material. You could stop printing PLA. Abs needs minimal layer cooling, and does not jam in the same way from heat creep. Would a pwm fan on theby Origamib - General
Re: De- and regrease Chinese linear bearings? How? - 7 years ago
Alot of Chinese bearings and linear rails come coated in anti rust treatments for storage and transportation, not grease. You can tell because the rails bind and feel rough in their movement. In fact I'd go as far to say that most bad reviews of Chinese rails are from people who didn't clean them up first... A heavy spray of WD40 in all the bearings works well, then slide it up and down a few tby Origamib - Mechanics
Re: Carbon 3d printer in europe? - 7 years ago
Wow that's a lot of marketing hype! Isn't it just a DLP printer? They say themselves that all the strength comes from post processing.... I could slather my own prints in epoxy and they would be even stronger! Sorry rant over, I don't know any companies with this particular printerby Origamib - General
Re: PCB Effector with embedded sensor - 7 years ago
Looks good. I was one of the beta testers for the new hotend mounting system and I'd love to see where they went with it. I proposed a new adaptable system with modular screw in mount options but I don't think they took it up. I may have to take back the idea!by Origamib - General
Re: The Mighty Quin. - 7 years ago
Quotedeckingman QuoteOrigamib Looks great but you might want to rethink the name as it sounds an awful lot like the mighty quim Had to Google that - never heard of them - I'm an old guy who remembers the song "The Mighty Quinn" (Quinn the Eskimo) by Manfred Mann from 1968. I'm not sure we are looking at the same Google results... Quim is an old English word meaning err.... A ladies genitalsby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Re: The Mighty Quin. - 7 years ago
Looks great but you might want to rethink the name as it sounds an awful lot like the mighty quimby Origamib - CoreXY Machines