Deltas are pretty hard to setup vs other types of printers. Its probably not so much a firmware problem as it is a build problem. You haveto make sure everything is equal. Then you have to setup the firmware to match what you built.by xile6 - Delta Machines
I search but couldnt find the info im looking for. So i ordered a smoothie board since its a 32 bit and alot of people say it works better then the ramps board. I read that the smoothieboards work with z probes, but what i couldnt find out was setting up deployment and retraction loctaction for the allen type probes. Is this possible with smoothie? I would think, id just have to add the movesby xile6 - Delta Machines
Just my 2 cent. Get one with a heated bed. Its better to get one now then later on after you have everything setup. I dont know the difference from liner and rollers. I hear the liner sliders arent as noisey Also try to get one with molded conners. It bassically goes Aluminum > molded > printed. As far as build quailty. Pla is the best filament to start off with. But it does need a fanby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotegkr Yes, I had printed the fan-duct from the e3d design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340312) last week, while I was waiting for a e3d v6 lite, that I had ordered on amazon. But when I tried to test fit it to the Sintron hot-end heat-sink barrel, it did not fit (second picture attached). E3D has included a "V6.6_Duct.stp" file, along with the STL file, But it appears that these STP filby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper On the E3D v5 vs V6 clone debate for the fan shroud... it seems like its neither. My sintron clone has a heatsink of 18,6mm diameter. The V6 has 22 mm, the V5 has a whooping 25mm heatsink. so... not a single heatsink on thingiverse will fit this clone it seem, and i'm afraid that i'm far from skilled enough to deswhat ign my own. What type of shroud are you looking for? There aby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotemegamicro hi there, i too just built a micromake printer. looks nice, but i should focus on other things about at the time being. problems: - upon completion, the firmware on it or the controller card itself just locked up. that only happens when i attempted to jog the motors positions. it would allow it to happen a little, then it would just lock the screen, the dial on the controller beby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotewrangellboy Anybody ever to try to convert the stock hot end to all metal? I have a couple rolls of petg and printing at 240+ with the stock lined hot end makes me nervous. I ordered this and installed it, but it jammed like mad on PLA. I know the standard answer is to buy an e3d, but petg just isn't worth an $85 hot end for me... I had that problem with pla and all metal throat. I belieby xile6 - Delta Machines
Frist try a different slicer. The. Slow down the print 60 isnt to high but if everything isnt setup right it will surely show. Try 40.by xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteMarkM92 Quotepaul_delta Check your wiring to make sure that you connected thermistor to the right pin. You may try to swap the bed and extruder thermistor connectors to check if extruder thermistor pin can read the bed temp. Test your thermistor with multimeter. The resistance will change if you will warm it in your hand - from around 100k Ohm to 60k Ohm (25C to 36C). QuoteMarkM92 Well I haby xile6 - Delta Machines
If you run G28 then G29 And the effector moves to a location then moves up ,up and up. Then your Z probe is setup wrong in the firmware. You might have to invert the Z min endstop setting. With a m119 while home. The xyz max should read triggered and z min read open. When at 0,0,0 touching the bed triggering the Z probe. A m119 should read triggered for Z min. Also G30 isnt for all firmware. Oby xile6 - Delta Machines
How many flange ones you got. The top frame uses 6 bearing for the belt. If you have more then 6, then they might have sent the wrong bearings. If you have only 6, then they didnt seen you any bearings.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotegkr Hello All, This has been a great forum, and I have learned a lot here over the past week or so during the course of my Kossel build (especially during the tuning and calibration process). Built the printer entirely using the parts that Sintron shipped in the box (besides the fan-shroud, which I printed on my other 3D printer, as the Sintron design was coming in the way of one pair of dby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotemugen3Der I found this piece in the kit. So it seems to me this model doesn't need the linear rail, but I don't find any wheels for this guy. Thats a printed slider carriage. In the photo it looks losse. I never used them before, but they should be tight around the extruded metal part *edit Looks like there is a screw that goes into the side for tension, but not sure on thoe pix. But yoby xile6 - Delta Machines
That is the belt part. You will need a xyz carriage. If you go to thingivers you will find some, but not much of a help to you if you dont have a working printer. But post a full pix of all the parts you have and maybe so one will be able to point out what part os what.by xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteDragobert I about the printing: I know. but since i redesigned the Rostock to make it cheaper for me, I have some trouble printing good parts. After all, I'm not a man whose in love with electronics =/ About the build space: I think that's not that much. From the centerplane (mid of screws to the rods) to the bottom of the heater block without nozzle it's 21mm. Is that much? Unfortunately Iby xile6 - Delta Machines
Looks nice, but i just cant get with water and electrionic. Also how much does it cut down on your build space. The spacing of the nozzles look like a lot.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Sounds like a wiring problem. I had 1 wire come loss from the connector to the board and just wasnt making a good connection. Motor didnt move. Unplug it and plug it back in and starter working. I ended up making another connector.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotelokidude No. The one I have the effector is in two bits, and a hinge is formed by having a rod go through from one arm mount to the other on one side. The part that holds the hot end can then pivot up a little and this is detected by the optical sensor. So I uses the tip of the hot end as the z probe. I just can't find stl's anywhere for this part. I'll see if makergeeks can provide tby xile6 - Reprappers
Quoteaeonfox Hello I am lookling for a bit of help with my micromake. I got it working fine after a few minor issues, and had it printing a number of parts that I was happy with. However the hotend jammed up, and during the course of figuring out the problem the feeder that came with it broke. I replaced the feeder with a aluminium one, and have that working, but I still had problems with it jamby xile6 - Delta Machines
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 129 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing You said the tip to bed is 127mm. Change the 129 number to match your setup. Aslo make sure the steps pre mm are the correct. If they are wrong it will over step.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Higher rod number for smaller part. Smaller rod number for bigger part. So try chamung to 280 rod size in marlin and see if that gets u closeby xile6 - Delta Machines
It should home to Max 1 The INVERT_X_DIR (x,y,z) should be true for deltas. You might need to swap your wiring at the board. The temp sensor should be 1 or 5. 0 means you have no sensor. And your endstops seem to work. While up and home they will all say triggered. While drop down they should all say open. Z min should read open while its not being touch. And trigger when it touches the bedby xile6 - Delta Machines
Check the endstop. Manual move the printer to the top and type g code M119 It should say the x y z max endstop are triggered or high.by xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteDrDoggy .....one thing that i cant figure out how to get out is how to get that u shape we are seeing across that one diagional (bottom left to top right), but again the g29 should resolve that , no? Ima head off to the store now, get some acetone and a box, see if that help me any, will update post soon G29 doesnt fix all that. If the printer isnt build correct or the information is offby xile6 - Delta Machines
G29 is for bed leveling to make sure it can print flat on the bed. Calibrating is so the effector can move flat across the bed and not convax or concave (higher in the center lower on the edges vise verus). You dont do anything with the g29 info, it is loaded into ram and the printer use this information when it starts printing.by xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteDrDoggy ok I will change it , thanks for all the great help guys! but in regards to this , should i change the z probe offset value? OR (should i say) does the g29 code actually autolevel and reset the base location in firmware? Yea change the z probe z height offset. I do the paper test first to find the offset in the center then i start with a test 20mm cube and watch the skirt and frisby xile6 - Delta Machines
Get a shroud for the fan. It might be blowing on the bed some. Also your first layer is to high up. You need to go down a bit lower. You can see how it has bubble vs a flat line.by xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteBoByS Quotexile6When i did just a normal G28 it would freeze and say probe out of bed. If you don't home your Z axis you'll get the "Probe out of bed" issue. I need to play with my printer to give you a proper answer but this was my fight with this problem. Best regards, Bobby I dont have a problem with mines. My gcode is G28 X Y G29 It homes X, Y then moves to center of the bed probes Zby xile6 - Printing
QuoteDrDoggy I have been leaving the cooling fan off with no results, will get pics tonite (layer fan?) you mean the fan that cools extruder heat sink? No. There is normally a fan that blows on the heat sink. That fan should be on all the time or else the filament will jam in the heatsink. Layer fans are fan that are pointed at the nozzle or the bed. There use to cool the filament as it exitsby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteDrDoggy abs, its like a rectangle about the size of a hotdog, it is folding up to the shape of a bow, so the center is flat on the bed but all corners are 5mm off the ground It does not happen till after about 10 layers or so, turning down the temp on the bed made it worse, temp on bed struggles to hold at 110 celcius, so turning it up isnt an option Picutre of printer. Does your hotby xile6 - Delta Machines