Quotegurmeet.athwal Yes now I set the left home grid to 28. when I run G28 command and then run auto level with G29 offsets still goes to -28. But when I run "G28 X Y" to home only X and Y axis and then run Auto level with G29 every thing goes well as expected... It should be G28 X Y G29 That way it will home X and Y to 0. Then do the auto bed leveling. When i did just a normal G28 it wouldby xile6 - Printing
since you have a 3d printer you could just print something out. The best thing to do is make some pla or asb washers. So it would be screw head, washer, frame, standoff , board ,washer, nut.by xile6 - Reprappers
QuotePenguino Hi all, I'm considering purchasing a Huxley Duo from Reprappro, but while I was looking through the build instructions I found a step where you're supposed to shrink a PTFE heat shrink around the thermistor. The suggested method was to use a cigarette lighter to shrink it, but I don't trust myself enough to do that. Is there any other inexpensive way to do this? I've thought of somby xile6 - Reprappers
As long as it can reach ever part of the bed, while keeping the tubing a bit lose you will be fine. I know the feeling of cutting something and coming up short. But a bit of slack isnt a problem.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Did you home the printer? Seems like the x is trying to home the wrong way.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotelalalandrus no it just crashes into the end stops (belts start slipping), really hope i can fix this before i destroy my printer Does g28 home by moving up hitting tge endstops and then moving down a mm or 2? Does gcode. G1 Z80 F6000 Move the printer down a little more then half way? If do then the motors are setup correct. Next i would check the endstop while homed. Should read X, y ,zby xile6 - Delta Machines
It could be the firmware isnt setup to use the board you have. I remeber i set mines up for the wrong board before and it turn on and display the correct readings but had a constant beep and won't let me change menus. Change to correct board and all work. So check that at the end of the config file that the right lcd is put in.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Sounds like a clog. Is there a fan on the hot end heatsink?by xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG QuoteSir_Death So why don't just put GND on the Hotend, connect printbed to Controller-input with pullup resistor activated, and detect the nozzle touching the printbed? I saw video on Youtube where z-probe was implemented in this way. So, It could work. The main issue here is to achieve good contact when touching the bed. So, no glass or tape anymore. Even the coating like ABS souby xile6 - Delta Machines
Heat up the hot end to 210c. Once heated try to manual push the filament through the hot end. If it is not going then you have a clog nozzle. Either the fan on the hotend wasnt on the hot end and the whole thing heated up and melted the platisc or you had hot platisc get pull up into the cold said and clog it up. So yea if what i said first doesn't work you'll have to take the hot in apart andby xile6 - Delta Machines
Last time i had something like that it was on my laptop and i thought the board was messed up. I reboot the pc and same problem. I ended up uninstalling the drivers , reboot and reinstalled and all had been find since.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Rod size. Bigger to make item smaller Smaller to make item bigger. Sounds backwards but its trueby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotemusic99 One thing I should have mentioned: I am doing this project as more of a proof of concept than an actual high quality printer build. I want to show that you can build a printer for under $50 if you really use what you have. If you already have the parts then it doesnt count. Ive seen people say you can build things for $30 to $60 but they already have $200 of free parts. And if youby xile6 - Delta Machines
From my understanding. The lower the steps the less resolution you will get. It would over short small fine movement.by xile6 - Delta Machines
All i know is my prints came out to small. I lower the the rod size. 230 which there are. To 225 and everything prints on point. So lower your rod length of printing to small. Up it if printing to large. I didnt touch the print radius, but mines always seems to stay the same give or take 1. Been able to get good prints since i switch rodsby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteKevinS What do these numbers represent on a Delta and how do I determine them? Do they represent the motion across the bed or the slider position on the towers? Or something else? Here's what I have on my Marlin config.h but I have no idea if it's right. #define X_MAX_POS 102 #define X_MIN_POS -100 #define Y_MAX_POS 98 #define Y_MIN_POS -94 thanks! Ita the limt the hot end can move afby xile6 - Delta Machines
@o_lampe Yes you are correct. It slip my mind since i only use RichC for delta type printers.by xile6 - Delta Machines
For the most part read this. kossel mini pdf Other then that here are some videos micromake thingiversby xile6 - Delta Machines
G29 auto LEVELing You run a print and you add g29 after g28 in your gcode file. That way it will probe the bed and build a new plane of what the bed is. Then it will use that as Z 0. Now G30 A is auto calibrate. This probes the bed and adjusted end stops, rods, raduis etc.. . Which woukd be the same as manual calibrating the printer.by xile6 - Delta Machines
As said. As long as your power supply can output more amps then needed, then your good. The items will only pull as much amps as they need. Now on to why it might have messed up. It sounds kinda like a wire came out and fry the board. It could of been a endstop that ground out the 5v power, the hot end or heat bed wires could of touch (pos to neg) and blow out the board. The best thing to do isby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak This unit is costing me a lot. I joke with myself that in the end it will end up costing me over $1000 in upgrades. I just want to make sure I dont hit $2500 or I could have just bought a makerbot Lol i hear you. I brought my prusa i3 the beginning of the year paod around $300 for it. My girl was going to buy me a makerbot, but i told her its a waste of money, since the build volume wby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak im using arduino firmware. I bought premade carbon fiber traxas and they guaranteed it was 215mm. Thats what I bought premade on ebay. But i have no idea how to check what my kossel thinks. Repetier is what Im using to print and i get curved edges. Im going to check all belts, tighten screws etc. Edit. I might have found the issue. The Y carriage was really loose. I think it might bby xile6 - Delta Machines
So today i started up the printer and got ready to print. It home and then started to move down and all hell broke loose. effector flip over and started moving down. pic does show the full story. 5 ends came off, 2 on effector 3 from carriages Once everything cool down.I look everything over. I thought the micromake rods where drilled, tap and threaded into the rods. When i first had problemsby xile6 - Delta Machines
As said. False trigger. Most of the time its the wiring. As the effector moves it pulls/pushes on the wiring. Or it could be the allen sticking. Try to get it to move smoothly and try again.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Last time i have holes. The nozzle was clog. The outer walls printed correct, but infill was very stringing. I heated the hotend to 240c and then uses a nozzle cleaner. (Very thin piece of metal) And just ram it in and out a few times. Then extruded about 10mm. After that i reprinted the same part without problemby xile6 - Delta Machines
I run the merlin RichC firmware. I use the micromake repetier for the auto calbi since its faster then RichC. Once it got the settings i then ported them over to merlin fw. I havent tested if i can print the full bed or not. But i do get everything nice and flat up to at less 80mm thats the biggest i tested now. Ill do a full bed test maybe tonight. I plan to get some new rods, since i believeby xile6 - Delta Machines
Depends on hotend. E3d, clone, j head, etc..... But normally i do between 2 and 4. Just play with the settings till no stringing.by xile6 - Delta Machines
@edak Im not 100% sure what your talking about. But if your talking about the small bump on the the outside. I heard its from cura Or the slicing software, overlaping the next laryer starting point. If your talking about the small gap. It could of hust been filament getting stuck or under extruding.by xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteStigern Finally got mine to reset in the correct direction. When doing auto level, at Print Height under Firmware setting it was set to 200 by default. If I used this setting it would stop in the middle and to auto probing in the air. Had to change this to 360 to get it close to bed. Now when I try to run auto level it won't sense my probe. Maybe someone can check out this video and see ifby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteSir_Death Threw the z-Probe away, after it engraved the Heatbed. (Self-Deploying while printing...) Did an extra round on manual calibration --> perfect. (Deviation of heatbed <0,0... --> smaller than I can measure...) If - somewhere in the future - object does not stick to heatbed anymore, I will recalibrate... what method did you use to calibrate the printer? i hear of people doiby xile6 - Delta Machines