There are a few free bitmap to .obj converters out there and also a lithopane generator on Thingiverse. If it is a logo or something like that it is better to try to get a vector graphic and convert it to 3d by hand.by SlowFoot - Reprappers
A reusable cable zip tie maybe. Something like this can take care of the rubber band problem.by SlowFoot - General
The extruder might be in need of some love too. Try clean it out and check if anything is broken. I am only familiar with the extruder to the Folger delta printer but I have no real experience of it. Replaced it from the start.by SlowFoot - Reprappers
I took a little peek on the net and there is a simpler form of this method called SPIF, Single Point Incremental Forming, (among other names). A standard Rostok or Kossel is probably too flimsy even for soft metals but a small NC mill maybe.. Read up and go for it.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Long time since I ran Slic3r. IIRC there is a setting that slow the printer down if the layers are small. I had trouble with the radiation heat from the hot end melting the top layers but I don't remember what setting it was. Also resulted in very long print times. I switched to the Cura engine, pity cause I liked Slic3r better. A extra fan to cool the print, as in elwood127's pic will help you aby SlowFoot - Reprappers
It turns up again on page 49. I suspect it is custom made.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Mechanical strength is mostly in the surface. Also organic shapes can come out better with more shellsby SlowFoot - Reprappers
Could be the "Minimum Layer Time" setting in your slicer but that would not give multiple stops. Looks like you have some z-wobble too or is that in the model?by SlowFoot - Printing
The problems on the top looks to be cooling related. When the print area gets smaller the plastic don't get a chance too cool and get set before new hot plastic is added and the print simply melts. More fan on the print and the "Minimum layer time" and "Cool head lift" settings in your slicer can help. Also cooling can get worse the higher the print is, if a fan blows down towards the print bed tby SlowFoot - Reprappers
Everything in the extruder-chain from the spool holder to the design of the nozzle can play a part. I am not familiar with your printer so, if your extruder can not build enough pressure, the hot end not melt the filament fast enough or something else is the cause is hard to say. The make and even the color of the filament can make a difference. 5 mm3/s sounds a bit on the low side but it is onlyby SlowFoot - Printing
Looks like some kind of springiness, might even be in the pencil. What happens if you run it very slow?by SlowFoot - Printing
Well there are multi start lead screws so speed is not the issue (if you pay up). But I think it will be hard to find one that do 15-30 mm/turn and is light enough to get descent accelerations. Moment of inertia is the name of the culprit.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Partly loose pulley maybe or possibly elasticity in the belts but I don't think that would look like your print. What direction is X and Y in the pic?by SlowFoot - Printing
Mostly I use Meshmixer by Autodesk. Free, good editing of STL files, easy to add custom support and fun to play around with when you get bored.by SlowFoot - Printing
Quotethetazzbot How about the overhangs, where it looks very rough and ugly? I'm getting this on other models. I try to change only one variable at a time when I have these kind of issues. In this case, less flow and lower temp had no effect. Try go down in layer hight, a little extra cooling helps too.by SlowFoot - Printing
I used Plastech from Feedtheprinter and will get more from them.by SlowFoot - General
You are just a few posts from the best source of support and help you will find. As for buying, the kit is a ok starting point but you will probably replace a lot of parts from the kit over time. You will get a better printer for the same money if you source the parts yourself. Stronger 0.9 degree motors, 32 bit electronics, more accurate aluminum corners, a better extruder, sliders that don't hby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Thanks Edvardas! Good point on the guided and unguided nuts. Looks like I will have to go M4 where I can.by SlowFoot - General
You will get more torque with any down gear change, like switching from mk 7 to mk 8 pulley. That will help the skipping but not the chewing for that you need better grip unless the problem is your hotend not keeping up.by SlowFoot - General
In search of European vendor selling M3 sliding nuts for 20x20x6 aluminum extrusions. That is this typ: I have plenty of T-nuts and are not too pleased with them. Also I don't want to wait a month for something that might or might not come from China. Cheers!by SlowFoot - General
Think you should start by trying something like "Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation".by SlowFoot - General
by SlowFoot - General
Quotenebbian QuoteSlowFoot I guess you have to make sure the horizontal extrusions are all in one plane first. How could they not be? Three points define a plane. Because the horizontal extrusions are, at best, three lines, that is six points.by SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian There are two separate things you need to check: 1) Squareness of the towers to the horizontal extrusions 2) Squareness of the towers to the bed These are two completely separate issues. To check 1, you need a carpenters square or angle finder, as well as some diagonal cross braces. Put your square on a horizontal extrusion and square up a tower. When it's square then attach youby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 So if you get one side of your prints lifting off the print bed as the print continues is the print bed not hot enough? I'm printing PLA and have the print bed at 65. I keep getting one side lifting off the print bed and I'm not sure how to go about adjusting it? Is the bed square to the towers? Is it the same side as the heat break fan is on? Also PLA is very sensitive to tracesby SlowFoot - Delta Machines
by SlowFoot - Look what I made!
When this happen to me a good, thorough cleaning of the bed with alcohol usually do the trick.by SlowFoot - Printing
Some of the lines on the dice occurs on the same hight, that will indicate trouble with the z - movement, like binding. You could also try to set the layer hight to a multiple of your mm / full step. In theory this should not make any difference but, at times, microstepping don't agree with reality that well.by SlowFoot - Printing
A bit too hot is my guess, do a heat calibration and see how low you can go. You can also try rotating the dragon on the bed so the fan cools the belly better but that will probably just move the problem.by SlowFoot - Reprappers