QuoteSir_Death QuoteTha_Reaper Sintron offered me a new PSU. I dint expect that. the service is really incredible for a HK seller. I asked if they could send a 20A version, and they agreed for 10 dollar more. Good deal, good service. parts quality may not be premium grade (as should have been expected for this price), but i'm still happy i bought this set. More important is the ammount of powerby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Sintron offered me a new PSU. I dint expect that. the service is really incredible for a HK seller. I asked if they could send a 20A version, and they agreed for 10 dollar more. Good deal, good service. parts quality may not be premium grade (as should have been expected for this price), but i'm still happy i bought this set.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG The bottom layer is a bit junky because the filament was just inserted and the extrusion was not started at very beginning. But why the corners are round a bit? Is it normal? And it seems it over-extruded (but I calibrated extruder precisely: 100mm requested - 100mm got). The settings was: PLA @ 200C, layer 0.3. And after the print I got a thin straight solid thread of plastic 20by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
talking about currents... i just realise ive never even adjusted those. just plugged the drivers in, and started moving the printer. Is there a guide on how to find the best current for a delta printer and set the drivers accordingly? I dont even know what a too high a current or too low even does (except for frying your steppers, or overheating the drivers)by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Ok, i take back the things i said about the PSU. It started to randomly shut down of my when it has to power both the bed, and the hotend. I'm going to contact sintron about this. If they dont provide a solution (which i dont really expect) then i'll have to buy a new PSU. 15 or 20 Amps recommended?by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Everything (except for the z-probe) seems to be working now. Im surprised how fast this printer is... Bed gets to 60 degrees in less than a minute. hotend takes a little over 1 minute to hit 200 degrees. Printing at 120mm/s is no problem, infill at 150. I need to tweak the sizes a little bit as everything seems to be 0.1-0.3 mm too big in random directions. Now i just need to wait for extra fansby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotehacker IIRC, Marlin's stock Configuration.h has 760*1.1 for extruder steps? Could it be that you changed it to 91*1.1? That would make 100.1 which is closer to 104.something I got after calibrating. Because 91 indeed sounds a bit low. That's correct. As I don't know a lot about marlin and coding I decided just to change the first part. Didn't know if the *1.1 was some kind of required part..by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I have set the esteps from 760 to 91 and it extrudes pretty close to perfect now. My 10x10x10 cube was 10.2x10.1x10.4 mm and great layer adherance. As far as I know all jumpers were preinstalled on the electronics and I didn't alter that.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I used that sites method... i told the printer to reverse 30mm of filament. The result was 251mm reversed. I think i found out what caused my extruder to skip and my cube to become a blobby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I got sick of calibration (dont have suitable screws yet to screw on top of the cariages) and decided to get the center calibration as close as possible and melt some plastic. My first try at a 1x1x1 cube resulted in a huge blob.... turns out i had the filament diameter setting set to 3mm in slicer. the second try i still get a ton of overextrusion, and a saggy cube. also my extruder is skippinby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I have it moving! took me a while to figure out some error messages, and a bug that caused the printer to shut down immediately because of too high temperature (turns out thermocouplers are set as default.... Just one thing: When the printhead moves to the edge of the print area, my printer emits a noise like its having a severe asthma attack. pretty high pitched wheezing... is it supposed to doby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Just found nebbiqns post on page 3. i'll try that for sure. Thanks! And i can print. i have a second (crappy) printer. its just not accurate...by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I'm having trouble with the z-probe. the probe is so close to the heatsink, that the plastic block that keeps the spring in place is rubbing against the heatsink, blocking movement of the probe. There is another place where i can place the probe, further from the nozzle... seems more inaccurate if i place it there...?by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian The hotend just slides into the effector... but you do need to remove some material with a dremel. I think I posted a picture on page 3 or thereabouts. found that picture, but mine looks like this: Its kind of snug without the dremel work. would this also work, or does it needs to sit below that ridge? And after that? i just use 6 screws to scre it to the effector, attach the fan,by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
How did everyone fix/clip/screw his printbed to the structure? EDIT: And i'm a little confused by the printhead assembly and how its supposed to fit onto the effector. the manual just seems to skip that whole part.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I only got 3 stepper drivers (not including the extruder). Now I almost feel ripped offby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
thanks for the pictures. They help a lot. I cut the belts, and i've decided to adjust the pulley and the top corners later. I just installed the endstops with the endstop brackets from the second page of this topic. they fit, but there is a little problem that you cant get to the screw to move the endstop up and down without physicly removing the endstop first. Ive tried to measure it out so thaby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak But in the interim, how do you hide the wires to make this look pretty. I had friend come over and he was NOT impressed. He had this look like it looks like a rats nest.you can push wire in the outside of the extrusions and tape over them. There they are out of sight, and dont interfere with the rollers. You can bundle the wires from the hotend as much as you can with tie-rips. and leby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Can someone with a working kit post closeups of their carriages? I have some doubts and questions about them... 1: I just need to cut off the belt where the 2 sides meet inside the carriage? 2: As shown on the attached picture, the place where the belt locks in the carriage is about 2-3 mm more sunken towards the extrusion then the free-running belt is. Is it OK like this, or should i adjust theby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Solved the problems so far. I put the extrusion and the corner piece in nearly boiling water. Let it soak for 1 minute, and then i got it out and hammered on the corner piece to get the extrusion out. Works perfectly. Trough trial and error i found that the best way to use the T-nuts that sintron provide is by tightening it all the way, and placing the t-nut parallel with the slot in the extrusby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
ran into some small frustrations. I was at the point there the vertical extrusions needed to be hammered into the bottom corner pieces. All fun and games, but on 1 corner one of the special nuts that should hold the vertical extrusion into place got stuck, and pulled down with the extrusion, now i have a stuck extrusion there, a half broken stuck nut, and a misaligned vertical extrusion. I haveby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotesquall Miamicraft posted the links on page 2 of this thread. Here's the PDF: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2w56ruepec5hgxo/Kossel mini instrution by sintron technology_v2.pdf password : Sintron_Technology I had to buy a dremel and dremel some of the parts myself as well to get them to fit nicely. Thanks. I guess i overlooked those. i held everything together and the carriages and huge ball enby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
My kit arrived. Looks like its fully complete, which means including the rods and rod ends, for which i got a refund because i didnt want those and because i bought traxxas ends and carbon fiber rods. I just noticed there are no instructions or a link to where i can download those. Anyone with some pointers? otherwise i have to mail them again... I'm a little disappointed with the quality of theby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe @The_Reaper If you want to save more weight, use carbon rods instead of the steel ones. Sintron seems to be a bunch of morons, but at least their customer service seems better than average. Although they use customers as guinea pigs, they improve their kits later. -Olaf In the end they refunded me 14 bucks to buy myself some traxxas ends. I guess the person that promised me thatby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I still asked for the traxxas ends. Mostly because they are a lot lighter than the stock ends. As I understood from earlier conversations that reduced weight will have a positive effect on speed and quality... right? I'm really looking forward to start tinkering... my old printer is making new horrible sounds every day. I don't know how much longer until something breaks again.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Just got this message from sintron: Dear by the way , i've just talked about this with our engineer . and our engineer already figure out the problem. and already revised the plastic parts. so the ends are ok now. so if we can make sure the rod ends are ok for each parts. is it ok we send them directly ? -- and by the way , we will send notice for this to all our customers , because ifby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian I would ask them if they can substitute the traxxas ends for the metal ball joints before buying, as the metal joints are totally unsuitable. ... Did that. Just got a reply that they will ship my kit with traxxas ends. Thanks for the hints. Also good to see positive messages of people that got their printer running. Gives me hopeby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 The general rule is that with cheap kits, you get what you pay for. I'm not sure the Folger kit is any better, it has changed several times and from what I see on this forum, I think they are still including motors that are very badly matched to the drivers and corners that don't fit properly. If you want a high quality but relatively low-cost delta kit shipped from Europe, I suggest yoby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Hi, I'm pretty new to the whole DIY part of 3d printing. Not satisfied with my current printer (micro 3d from m3d), I want to build a kossel and my eye fell on the sintron kit because I'm a bit on a tight budget (restricted by wife ). Comparing kits the folger tech kit gets better comments, but I live in Belgium, and they charge shipping and VAT on top of the same price as the sintron kit. Fby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines