QuoteKD0SKH aussiephil, I reduced the length of my original wires and supplied 6 wires to 11A connection and 4 wires to 5A connection, and everything works great so far, except for one annoying detail. My heated bed acts a little funny. If I go right for 90-100C, it tends to crap out around 82C and not take any power for a while (<60C typically). If I have it reach 80C through a few incrementby aussiephil - General
Quoteicefire @the_digital_dentist: Actually I intend to print more ABS than other materials. I wouldn't bother me to have to wait about 20 min to reach 110 degrees.. Do you think the heater in question wiuld be even slower? The bed size I am aiming at is approx. 240x320mm.. So I couldn't find a better alternative... Furthermore, 0,5W/cm^2 would mean about 400W for the heated bed which means abouby aussiephil - General
QuoteDjDemonD Maybe it's because the printer I'm referring to is quite large but I could fit 8 power supplies in the box under it so I never really think they are that bulky and unwieldy. There must be a psu on offer from China somewhere that has 12v and 24v rails. Maybe we could make one? A quick browse on Meanwells site and Aliexpress did not show up any Dual Rail supplies, no doubt they exiby aussiephil - General
I count 5 in the photo in the first post. 3 for XYZ with Z having two output connections 2 for extrudersby aussiephil - Duet
Quoteicefire Of course, I could use a 24V PSU instead of the ATX PSU I have now, but that would mean to change practically everything: Hot end heater, fans, LED circuits, etc. Thanks for your help! Actually no, you could do the reverse of your original post, using a 24v -12v DC DC step down. your using a lot less current for fans, hotend, etc meaning a 100w step down unit would be heapsby aussiephil - General
Whilst ABS may be slower than PLA, I completely disagree that it needs to be as slow as 30mm/s ... I regularly run ABS at 60mm/s between 232 - 242 depending on filament using mk10 extruders. With higher speeds you need to ramp up the hot end temp a little to keep the ABS flowing cleaning. Sounds more like you need to increase your extruder stepper current, if not possible then you have reached tby aussiephil - Printing
Quotedeckingman That's looking really neat. And small too, I imagined it was going to be bigger. I'll probably end up using short motors. It's hard to get a size idea from design screen shots or even photos without a reference Ok, short and long motor versions now published via Thingiverse Happy enough to publish this version. I can feel a Diamond Hot End in my future......by aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
Ok Printed it in PLA just to check out it would print and have found two things. 1. made the holes for the nema face plate to small.. 2. could shave a mm off the top plate thickness, but not sure if the few grams actually matter. oh and PLA sticks like the proverbial to a blanket on IPA wiped down Blue Tape, nearly destroyed the print getting it off the bed. Just working my way forward on the dby aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
Lets see 400x400 or 40cmx40cm size 6mm = 960cm cubed 8mm = 1280cm cubed 10mm = 1600cm cubed using 0.5W (maths is easier) 6mm = 480W 8mm = 640W 10mm = 800W My bead has around 2450cm cubed of 8mm Cast and with the 1200W heatpad it will get to 60c in less than 3 minutes from say 15c ambient but it also well insulated underneath so all heat goes to the bed. i've used Ceramic fibre paper in 3mm thby aussiephil - Developers
Sigh..... lesson one At the currents people try to draw with heated beds over a small number of wires (in your case 4) you get stupidly high levels of voltage drop. If you going to do it at least use every single 12V and Ground wire to supply power. Power supplies will supply all the power they can up to the rating providing the cabling is up to it, obviously yours isn't if your bed stops heatingby aussiephil - General
Ok last edit for tonight with some pretty slots in the top Unfortunately I've broken the full parametric scaling, so no STL yetby aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
Quotedeckingman Man you are a star! I've never played with S3D or Fusion 360, only Open Scad (and I'm not very good at that) but I should be able to import your stl into OpenScad and play with it if I need to but it looks fine as it is. The other thing that struck me is that I need to get wires to the hot end and of course these could follow the same route as the bowden tubes which would be quiteby aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
Ok think we are done...... 1. Top view... this is the base for printing 2. Underneath with dummy 48mm deep nema17's to check layout 3 as an STL in S3D ready to be sliced S3D tells me it's under 100gms at 50% infill Here's the STL: (Removed for the moment, error in one hole size, working on it) The three M4 holes for hanging should be positioned correctly for weight balance I'll print onby aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
Quotedeckingman Man, you are a star! Don't suppose you have that as an stl do you? No worries if you don't - I can cobble something together in OpenScad. Thanks for taking the time. I really think this, or something very like it, is going to work. Compared to my existing Mendel, my planned printer could end with 60% bigger X and Y, 500% bigger Z but with 30 to 50% shorter bowden tubes. Brill !!by aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
Quotedougal1957 I Would Echo the concerns with the Titan I put one on My delta and struggled with it to get a decent print without jamming/Stripping. Went back to the original Mendel Mini extruder and issues disappeared I think the issue came down to the Length of the Bowden Tube (Mine is 800 mm long). I think as the pressure builds up and the friction of the tube is just to much for the Titan tby aussiephil - Duet
Quotedeckingman Should I be looking at anything special in the way of extruder stepper motors to take advantage of any of this? I'll shortly be ordering 3 off E3D titans (thanks for the idea DC42 although initially I thought they were too expensive) and I was just going add whatever steppers they (E3d) supply. The default nema17 supplied by E3D with the Titan seems to be fairly generic unit thatby aussiephil - Duet
hey DM, I have around 4M of wiring to get to the thermister on the hotend of the Delta and my readings are consistent with a 3rd party measurement of nozzle temps. All i ensured was that I kept the loop resistance of the wiring to a minimum..... any run over a couple feet use decent 20/18/16 AWG depending on current draw.by aussiephil - Duet
Quotenebbian Looking good Phil. Only thing I'd do would be to add some Z lift, this stops those ugly lines when travelling over previously laid plastic. They are obvious in the snail tracks leading out from the mounting pillars on the top photo. Thanks for that, can't recall if that print had z-lift or not as I keep playing with it....Think I'll slice two test pieces with different settings anby aussiephil - Printing
Quoteuvarovkv Hi David. Is there any news about the release date and final specs? you could sign up at David did say the duet site would be first to get the new news Cheersby aussiephil - Duet
An interesting find I think..... After getting everything dialled in on Saturday, did nothing with the printer on Sunday except run some auto calibration sequences to confirm I was getting repeatable results which I was. Monday (long weekend here) mid morning decided to try printing the print that kept failing and decided to run the calibration independent of the print. The calibration came inby aussiephil - Duet
QuoteDyze_Design Hi Aussiphil Great job with your prints! If you have any question about the product feel free to contact us! Max Thanks Max, good to see you guys floating around...... I have sent a message via your webpage . You may not have seen this video Cheers Philby aussiephil - Printing
David, I took a deep breath, reset the end stop numbers to where they have been for weeks and set G31 Z at 2.66 (went higher) and got 3 out of 4 runs with height = 618.84 (over by .04) and one at 618.76 (under by .04). I wonder if this falls into end stop repeatability? as the numbers reported by M666 do change.The end stops are quality micro-switches obtained from brand new mice For refereby aussiephil - Duet
From config.g M665 R301.99 L674.6 B280 H618.80 X0.13 Y-0.25 Z0.00 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height M666 X0.33 Y-0.20 Z-0.19 ; put your endstop adjustments here, as given by auto calibrationby aussiephil - Duet
Quotedc42 Sounds like the trigger height of the IR sensor has changed a little, and you need to reduce the G31 Z parameter in config.g by 0.1mm. Trigger height had changed, measured it about 20 times for a fairly consistent average around 2.62mm .... had already reduced G31 Z to 2.58 as with 2.62mm each calibration saw the homed height decrease by about 0.4mm Bed.g has been tweaked to ensure alby aussiephil - Duet
The Delta has been running fine for two weeks with auto cal before every print Today i did some maintenance of the belt joiner/tensioners and something went haywire. The physically measured Z height is 618.80 with Z=0 measured with a feeler gauge at 0.03mm above the blue tape, This hasn't changed and the end stops still have the same reported offsets. Due to whatever went wrong the first printby aussiephil - Duet
Here is a concept for a 3 way nema17 flying extruder mount that is suited to the E3D Titan...... first version allows for 48mm long motors which is excessive but I wanted to see the print size, 141mm x 131mm so will fit on most beds. For shorter motors it will be smaller. I was going to angle the motor mounts in but remembered the Diamond hot end has the cold ends angled out. and a version forby aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
Back to basics What is covering your build plate, ie surface. If you still have kapton tape as often used on ffcp machines then the PLA will not stick. If you have been successfully printing Abs I would get that working with s3d and ffcp then make the switch. S3d is an amazing program and I personally use nothing elseby aussiephil - General
Quotedc42 QuoteSadly I personally agree, despite having an excellent wifi point inside the garage used for printing I would always hard wire things like this. aussiephil, please can you explain why? a quick network description then an explanation so please indulge for a minute. I acknowledge that my home network set up is not usual even for small offices, it consists of three layer 3 gigabit sby aussiephil - Duet
I have some thoughts on this based on my flying extruder setup on the delta that should work if your prepared to have some vertical height above the printer. I have around 200mm of Bowden length with 580mm diameter coverage withe the extruder suspended centrally about 300mm below the central retaining point 500mm above the hot end. The central point is then pulley counterweighted to take up theby aussiephil - CoreXY Machines
QuoteElmoC Quotedc42We've replaced the Ethernet socket by a WiFi adapter. Sorry to hear that. This has just made the board unusable for myself, and probably others. Not everyone has their printer in a location with a good WiFi signal, or even have WiFi. Sadly I personally agree, despite having an excellent wifi point inside the garage used for printing I would always hard wire things like tby aussiephil - Duet