Quotethe_digital_dentist Those are pretty small steppers. I think I used 64 oz-in steppers, 400 steps/rev, in the XY stage in UMMD. I recently tested some servomotors in the sand table and really liked them, so I'm going to pull them from the sand table and try installing them in UMMD to see how it behaves. The servos are rated for 26 oz-in, but you can't compare that to stepper torque. Servos cby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I see pulleys held in place with screws. Is there something that stops the screws from squeezing the pulleys too tight so they don't jam? There are usually two tiny ball bearings in the top and bottom of the pulleys. If the mounting screw is too tight, it can squeeze the inner rings of the two bearings towards each other. That puts a huge load on the balls and races andby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quoteruggb Just a reminder: NOTE; the stepper motors on a coreXY are NOT XY. Technically, they should be referred to as AB. It takes BOTH motors to move the head in a straight X or Y direction. One motor running will only move it on the diagonal. That shift does appear to be a diagonal shift, so it is likely a drive issue on one motor. If I run mine too fast, even though I have 180° wrap on theby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quoteruggb I also have a scratch built coreXY. The layer shift I was experiencing on mine was a result of missing steps. That was caused by two issues. One was flyback voltage on the steppers that was eliminated with diode blocks obtained from AliExpress. They are cheap and come in different configs. One is a simple plugin under your driver. The other was a Marlin issue that produced minor shiftsby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Can you post a few pix of the printer and prints? It sounds like a mechanical problem... Are you using steel core belts? No steel belts, standard fiber/rubber belts. Here are some pics, some of the printer, some of the layer shift fails and one of a perfectly fine print that happened in-between a couple of these fails. It seems mechanical. When I have had a couple ofby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
I have a scratch built CoreXY that I recently completed. For a couple of weeks it has worked flawlessly, but now I am getting intermittent diagonal layer shifts toward the "X" stepper (the right one looking from the front). I know this is the direction traveled with the X stepper is running and the Y stepper is not. It seems to happen "mostly" on larger models, more compact models 90% of the tby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
QuotePDBeal Quotedlc60 Thanks, It works fine - Now to figure out why the Maestro board does not wait for the bed to heat up before it starts heating the hot end and starting the print... DLC Your probably using M140 instead of M190 to set your bed temperatures. M140 won't wait for it to be at temp, M190 will. Maybe. But for whatever reason, it never happened again, so maybe my first foray iby dlc60 - Duet
Quotedc42 You can add WiFi using a nano router such as the TP-Link WR802. Although Duet Web Control doesn't currently display the duration of the last print, if running firmware 3.1.1 you can retrieve it from the object model. It's called "job.lastDuration". So you can send: echo job.lastDuration and the time in seconds will be echoed to the command line. A slightly more sophisticated way isby dlc60 - Duet
I have a Duet 2 Maestro running the most recent firmware (3.something) on my scratch-built small CoreXY machine. Duet kicks the Marlin/Octoprint combo up one side and down the other of the road, IMO. With a couple of minor nits. The Duet tracks times it takes per layer, which is totally cool, but I benchmark my high-speed attempts by looking at the elapsed print time at the end of a print, whiby dlc60 - Duet
Thanks, It works fine - Now to figure out why the Maestro board does not wait for the bed to heat up before it starts heating the hot end and starting the print... DLCby dlc60 - Duet
I have a Duet 2 Maestro that I am going to use on my scratch-built CoreXY. I have a 40W hot end heater and a generic 150W PCB bed heater. I have found specs that say that the bed heater on a Duet 2 can deliver 15Amps, which is fine for the bed heater at 12V, but I find specs that say either 2Amp max for each hot end or 5Amp max per hot end. The Maestro tends to get left out in the documentation,by dlc60 - Duet
QuoteRoberts_Clif If you have a volt meter measure the voltage on the controller power pin when having problems maintaining temperature. This will eliminate the power supply as being a problem That is next on my agenda, these LED PSU's are not known for their robustness, it may have just failed. Yesterday it worked, today, not. But, to have a failure, there must be some discrete point in timby dlc60 - Reprappers
I have a scratch build with lots of custom this-n-that on it. No heated bed, uses a 6Amp 12V laptop supply for power. It has been running for over a year now with no issues, suddenly it has had problems maintaining temperature when the part fan is on more than 50%. I have replaced the heater, thermistor and even the power supply. Still there. I am using some integrated controller, Mk 1.3, Ruby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteobelisk79 I'd only argue that the linear rail 'upgrade' was probably unnecessary. V-wheels really are an excellent linear motion system if assembled properly. You've done a lot to that printer, good stuff, and for what it's worth... Sometimes, I find doing things the hard way rather enjoyable and educational too. Yeah, I could drop $3000 on a perfectly put together industrial printer. Butby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 Quotedlc60 Can the Duet Maestro controller hardware/software, level a bed by moving each stepper (side) independently to its respective zero end-stop? Yes, using either separate endstops or alternatively just the Z probe. Thanks! I thought that it could. My printer uses the dual-stepper approach to raise and lower the bed. I hate that since on power-up, those steppers jump, and bedby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMKSA Quoteobelisk79 QuoteMKSAAnd what do you consider a high tech, non rudimentary solution then ???? The unnecessary solutions people use like 2 and 3 motor bed leveling, mesh bed compensation, and quirky bed sensors like bltouch or piezo ones. Don't take my statements as implying that low-tech is a bad thing. Low tech means simpler, probably more reliable, and most certainly cheaper. Butby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
My "ear savers" we have qualified through local hospitals are straight, but my old Cartesian build plate ends up looking just like yours there. No auto-level anything, just a flat 5mm aluminum bed, filled nearly to the edge (mechanical limits to reaching the full bed edge). No cool lighting though... DLCby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Yes, of course. Then you'd never have to resync the screws because they'd never lose sync in the first place. In the bad old days, printers had unflat, often flexible beds, on stupid 4 point mounts (many still do) and you had to keep tweaking the bed manually before every print. Some people got the idea that the solution to the problem was to have the printer do all thby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Two z axis motors can be handled the way that Prusa does it in the i3. The Z axis motors lose sync on power-up when they jump. They don't lose sync during a print, or as long as the motors have power. In the Prusa machines, the X axis will tilt, in the Tronxy machine the bed will tilt (roll) when the motors lose sync. Prusa resyncs the motors/Z axis screws by drivingby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quoteobelisk79 I admitted in my response that the Maestro would work well. But in a simple 4 motor printer the benefit really comes from the software and not the hardware of the board itself. Like we discussed in the other thread where I brought up Klipper, it also allows for-on-the fly configuration changes. I seriously dislike firmwares like Marlin if for no other reason than the requirement toby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist $130 controller in a $300 printer? Why not? One of the things that makes a crappy $300 printer crappy is the crappy controller that comes with it. A lot of people buy crappy printers thinking they are going to upgrade them into good machines, but if the attitude is that you should only replace a $40 controller with a $50 controller because it's only a $300 printer, youby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quoteobelisk79 I mean your answer is to toss in a $130 controller into a $300 printer? You can get outstanding, reliable results with any widely available board. Then use Klipper, RepRapFirmware (its been ported to at least the LPC series architecture) or Marlin to get out of the closed source malarkey TronXY is pulling. Hey, it's your cash, the Maestro will certainly do the job and it should aby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
I got a CoreXY kit to learn about corexy and to boost my PPE production for our local Maker group. A lot of this machine is good, solid bones, bolted together, no plastic corner pieces and 99% steel, almost no cut plastic. But there are a few really sucky things about it. Dual Z motors and a gods-forsaken inductive bed sensor instead of a mechanical Z end stop. I don't even know what firmwareby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
I think that I have sorted this out. Sadly, it appears that the USB port on the A8 controller has died. Everything works but that. I really doubt that the cable is now broken or that the RPi USB system has suddenly died, since I used to have a USB web cam attached - Now I use the RPi cam, so I can liberate the much more expensive Logi web cam. I am still open to suggestions if anyone has seenby dlc60 - Reprappers
The stock controller on my Anet A8 may have failed. Or on my Raspberry Pi, or something else. So I am troubleshooting. Octopi says "State: Error: Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually." I have tried a couple of the RPi USB ports and rebooted both the RPi and the Anet A8, to no avail. I do not know how that port shows up in the RPi (4.19.75-v7+), so I'll ask: How to I find theby dlc60 - Reprappers
DD, Maybe I am just a little slow, but I don't quite understand the problem that this solves. Why not just use the M4x0.7 bolt to start with? DLCby dlc60 - Look what I made!
QuoteLepes Edit: OMG, I didn't see the second page of this thread facepalm! To be honest, Blender is not the best software if you know nothing about it, although I encourage to learn it because: - It's Open Source - It's free - It can do whatever you want: Split, modify, create, measure it, animate things and create a video, etc. - It has a great and big community (infinite information, lots ofby dlc60 - 3D Design tools
I use TinkerCAD to hack Thingiverse STL files. You can do some very sophisticated things with TinkerCAD. Play around with it and see. DLCby dlc60 - 3D Design tools
Quotethe_digital_dentist I've done it a few times. Keep the whole thing vertical, and spin the nut up to the end of the screw, and try to keep it under control so you can take the balls out one by one. I used antimagnetic stainless steel tweezers to grab the balls. Keep a jar of degreaser handy to drop the balls into as you retrieve them. Putting them back is always harder than getting them oby dlc60 - Reprappers
You haven't said what you are going to do with your creation. To make design decisions you have to start by defining what the end result needs to do. "ready! Fire! Aim!" is going to lead to disappointment. We cant help you until you have made those decisions. DLCby dlc60 - Robots!