@sdavi An other issue, still related to the TFT32 communication, strange but dangerous: From DWC (works but takes about 15 minutes to load as already mentioned), system works. I can home, set T°, print .... BUT from the TFT32 when I set the hotend to say 130° (in fact any temp) , the T° keeps rising, never stopping ! I had to cut the power in an emergency as it was going beyond 350° !!! Somewby MKSA - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
@sdavi Regarding your build, I noticed a strange problem when issuing commands from the TFT32 panel. It takes tens of second between their execution ???? PS: So many different developments going on on this firmware regarding various peripherals like Stepper driver, WiFi module, display ... that I am concerned !by MKSA - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
@sdavi Just loaded and tried quickly your 3.1.1 So far looks OK Unfortunately the DWC is still slow to load via Ethernet cable . No change compared to ver 2 (see related thread). On the other hand, the T° spikes on the Temp Chart that I and others noticed (and were likely to trigger heater error faults) are gone ! No WiFi on my Sbase board.by MKSA - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
QuoteWescherry A lot of misinfo on the Railcore from the Dentist. ... Quote I'm also not a fan of using multiple Z axis motors. They get out of sync when you cycle power and that tilts the bed so you have to have some sort of scheme to relevel the bed frequently. It looks like the design could easily be modified to use a single Z axis motor. This re-tramming of the bed happens automatically,by MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Yet they keep the same "standard" using M6 screw ! Bulky, cross section still important, leaky most of the time and likely to break when you tighten it ! I personally make my own in stainless steel, with a cone hot end side (same principle as high pressure hydraulic fittings) and a collet heatsink side (10mm height) with thermal paste.by MKSA - General
@Moriquendi He asked for an opinion, I gave it. I didn't advise NOT to use your product, but one, in the hotend/carriage. It does the job and is difficult enough. The example you gave proved my point, too complex, problematic compared to building a proper machine, use of a simpler approach. leadinglights made quite good prototypes, analyzed the issues extensively and published the results. Selby MKSA - General
To insure the guides are in a plane, instead of long bars, you can use a laser, either a spirit level with one included, easy to make if none available. Rest it on the two guides, aim a point 10 or more meters away on a wall for ex, mark it then move the level along the guides, adjust one guide till you can hit the same point. Once they are in the same plane, make them // with a gauge that canby MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Seven years in a coma ?by MKSA - General Mendel Topics
Quotesgali ... Maybe my question boils down to that one: what does your gut-feeling tell you: what setup, series or parallel, is the most promising to start with? (I plan to use un-drilled 20mm piezos). So I shall enter the holy war to free the path to the Garden of Eden one way or another. Neither series, nor parallel, simply put none, or one in the carriage/hotend. Do you know any working sby MKSA - General
QuoteOrigamib ... I do agree with you on copper vs. Alu. I discovered the density issue about 10 minutes after making this post! The above heat sink would weigh in at 150 grams, but a slight redesign later (10mm slimmer) and it now weighs 27g if made in Aluminium or 90g in copper (compared to 18g for the round E3D heat sink). I chose copper in this render because its purdy, but realistically alumby MKSA - General
An other problem of this kind of heatsink is its height. It adds more than 25 mm to the distance from the hobbgear and the nozzle tip. A flat easily available Al heatsink like I use just adds 10mm.by MKSA - General
And why a separate heatsink ? Why not use it as the base of the extruder on which to mount the hobbedgear plus idelr and motor that will be cooled at the same time ? I use half of this:by MKSA - General
8 or 2 mm pitch makes no differences in term of "accuracy" ! 8mm pitch is just more suitable here. The resolution is plenty enough and still 5 times the X and Y. When I read about micron resolution for this kind of machine built the way most are, I just smile ! A heavy glance bent them more than a few microns !by MKSA - General
So ? Why did you expect to get an improvement by just changing the pitch ???? Furthermore, if it is harder to turn, that means you just worsen your machine built or these TR8 are either of poor quality and hard to turn or very good with minimal play and therefore bind due to poor alignment..by MKSA - General
You can contact the "engineer" who designed this worm gear box. His name is Sum Sing Wong ! Note, the behavior described in the above post is normal, just that the gear play seems quite big.by MKSA - Reprappers
QuoteDust @MKSA On most boards The -ve pin on the mosfets plugs are not actually GND's if you measure voltage from the power supply gnd to a mosfet + pin is will always read +12v or +24v what ever your system is on (some board do generate 12v from 24v for fans) if you measure voltage from the power supply gnd to a mosfet - pin it will read 12/24v when off (ie difference between + and - pby MKSA - General
3D printers "designers" learning mechanic, electricity, electronic with youtube videos don't need any hackers to achieve the behaviors you describe !by MKSA - Tech-Talk
QuoteDust GND of hot end and fan both go to 12/24v when off (0 when on) so is not compatible with digital pin gnd's Also since the hotend and fans the GND is switched, you cant join these either... as they would interfere with each other. WHAT ?????by MKSA - General
Quotewitor Why a good machine will prefer a 8mm pitch? I rephrase: If it works with a 8mm pitch, the machine doesn't bind and is therefore either well designed/built or has plenty of sloppiness, flexibility, play in the guides and bearings. In case of the latter, it will show with other issues. 1mm pitch is very common, one of the most common metric fine pitch. For ex; in small mill, and many sby MKSA - General
Quotewitor Thanks I think I will go for T8-2 then It will give enough torque to straighten any crooked frame and overcome stubborn guides A must for most hobby 3D printer. A good machine will prefer an 8mm pitch.by MKSA - General
QuoteDreGrave that filament is to expansive. should i go for nylon of for abs?? IGUS seems expensive but with a spool you can make many bushings of all kind, linear, for rotation, self aligning, flat even leadscrew nuts ! No need for hardened steel rod. Regular steel (plenty available in old printers, scanners), SS, hard anodized, carbon .... You can make them smaller than the regular LM SC ...by MKSA - Mechanics
If you have to ask DON'T BUT some people who don't need to ask can, others are or will be historyby MKSA - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Can you be specific about exacly what type of glue you used? All the cyanoacrylate glue I've ever used crumbles into dust when you put it on something flexible and then flex it. As explained a few years back about GT2 splicing, I use the Black flexible Loctite cyanoacrylate to bond these GT2 belts. This kind of glue is also used to make specific O rings from chord. Farby MKSA - General
Conclusion, one motor plus belt driving the two leadscrews ! Better, simpler, cheaper ! Just requires a bit more thinking and ability to make properly.by MKSA - Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteMMcLure If you have separate drivers for each of the Z motors and a bed leveling probe you can use Marlin's Z auto-alignment feature to sync the Z motors. You use the G34 gcode and Marlin will probe either side of the bed and adjust the Z motors until the difference in the measurements is below a set threshold (I have mine set to 0.02mm). You do realize that by doing that with a somewhat riby MKSA - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotegloomyandy @rudenick I think jay has covered pretty much everything. As far as I can see all of those warnings/errors are either normal (heater overpowered) or related to config.g settings. As jay mentioned there is not sufficient RAM available on the LPC boards to allow networking (ethernet, WiFi or SBC) and the display support at the same time (at least that was the case the last time I chby MKSA - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Quotecd_edwards Just started fooling around with a MKS Sbase board and RRF. I found that the M552 P192.168.1.18 S1 which I have in my config.g is ignored and I need to send this with a USB serial connection in order to have networking work. This is with gloomyandy's RC9 RRF version and DWC 2.1.3. FYI connection is a wired connection not wifi. Once I send the appropriate M552 command, everythingby MKSA - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Aesthetic ? Wow, I would have never thought about that ! For the rest, no comment. Wait and certainly not see !by MKSA - Extruded Aluminum Frames
To get exactly 20mm for the 20.04mm side, just squeeze your caliper a bit more till it reads 20.00 exactly ! For the 19.94mm side, it is a bit more difficult, squeeze very lightly where there are bumps. You will find a spot where you can get 20.00mm exactly.by MKSA - Reprappers
QuoteDust Its not just USB C that can have different power options look at usb quick charge v3 Does fast charge applies HERE to a 3D Printer connected to PC ????? Sorry for not listing ALL the standards about it. MCcarman wrote about different USB voltage that could cause the issue discussed HERE. This is wrong ! ANYWAY, the key issue is THE DISCONNECTED GND/0V, with just D+ and D- connectedby MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants