QuoteJustintime I have been using my E3D for 2 weeks or so, and i am baId right now of pulling my hairs out. I bought it to print better with ABS and no leaking elements. It's not leaking. But constant random jams. ABS on 240 degrees and tried different colors all the same problem. The hobbed bolt is eating like hell. I am running PLA at 260C Using the supplied thermistor adn temp_sensor_by jaydmdigital - General
Nice work. I have used your spiral bed hold downs on my mini Kossel.by jaydmdigital - Delta Machines
E3D on mini Kossel - printing 1.75mm white PLA at 65mm/s perimeter 80 mm/s infill 400mm/s travel (commanded not measured). Only issues I have experienced: The hotend needs a few minutes to finish expanding 1.75mm filament is weak compared to 3mm and is prone to jam on the initial warm up. The 3mm E3D I have on my Prusa never jamsby jaydmdigital - General
QuoteJumperdome Now my working plate would look different, but still be for a delta printer. So now my question to you would be first if you have some pictures which would show the mechanical connection. And could you provide me the dimmensions of the actually sold metal hotend, so I could go forward and make the design my working plate? (Great would be a solidworks file)by jaydmdigital - General
Are you asking for help or just publicly venting? If the former, can you provide more information like the filament type (PLA, ABS), the diameter (3mm, 1.75mm), the extrusion temp, the measured diameter of your filament. Also, what tolerance are you having issue with. Mine works so well, I just ordered one from a US distributor for my mini Kossel to replace a leaking JHead. -Jay Quotedsnijders Sby jaydmdigital - General
Power is voltage times current. You may have to reduce your current if your voltage is 19V. Then again, you could always have a defect part too.by jaydmdigital - Delta Machines
Same issue, and it turned out my PLA as too wide in spots thus the sporadic jams. When I use PLA that's in spec, it's a beautiful thing. BTW, raising the temp had no effect. I am thiking of making a die I can pull the filament true to strip off the oversized amount. Useless to me otherwise. -Jay Isos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I love my E3D extruder, butby jaydmdigital - General
Was your extruder motor controller working prior to using the stepper as a generator?by jaydmdigital - General
Update: looks like JohnSL converted the original part files as well as breaking them into Simple 100mm sized sub-parts to use 8mm rods.by jaydmdigital - Delta Machines
Thank you for posting your work thus far. I am happy to report that the STL's you posted of the larger parts (non-Simple parts) with the 8MM rod holes are able to be imported and rendered in OpenSCAD. Unfortunately, the same is/was not true of the Sketchup rendered parts. Did you ever try to print one of the larger parts, and if so, was it strong (non-flexible) compared to the first Simple protby jaydmdigital - Delta Machines
So as as non-Sketchup user ( I gave it a try of 2+ hours today) what does it take to get the top and bottom parts for 8MM rods and the carriage for LM8UU? I prefer these parts to the Simple 3DR by JohnL (I don't think several smaller pieced screwed together is as stiff as a single part). Normally I would import into OpenScad and add a plug while removing a bigger hole for the top and bottom pieceby jaydmdigital - Delta Machines
Do you have pullups enabled in configuration.h? You can use M119 to see what state the Arduino thinks your endstops are in when it's pushed or not. make sure to confirm each axis.by jaydmdigital - General
assuming 16x microstepping and 1.8degree steppers 53.33 is the steps per mm. You will have to update your configuration.h file, recompile and upload the updated firmware. Or, if your FW supports it, use the command G92 X53.33 Y53.33 to temporarily set the steps per mm. As for the Z, again assuming 1.8degree 16x microstepping and the recommended 5mm leadscrew you would use 4000.00. Again G92by jaydmdigital - General
Prusa i3 box version seems fairly simple to me. The costs are in the electronics and hotend.by jaydmdigital - General
Do you have a command like M109 200 near the beginning of your Gcode ?by jaydmdigital - Reprappers
You have seen: orby jaydmdigital - Slic3r
has what you want, but I haven't tried it and what it sounds like you are saying is that it has no impact when you check the box.by jaydmdigital - Slic3r
Would suggest you tell where you are located so a local reprapper can reply.by jaydmdigital - General Mendel Topics
I too use O1 drill rod. Eventually the bearing will wear tracks into the rods, but they work to get you going. Form my LM's I like to lube them with some thin oil (not WD40) and then take a spare piece of rod and run them up and down by hand several times to loosen them up. You will be able to feel the difference, if not keep going until you do. Also, I try to rotate them around the rod to encourby jaydmdigital - Reprappers
Woo, can you give more details on your printer, a photo maybe, that's a stunning result. I just got my E3D and use PLA exclusively Luigi...I would caution that a direct drive stepper extruder may not ave enough torque, but my Wades with a Bowden does.by jaydmdigital - Reprappers
What percent fill? What height is the object? If you use .2mm layers does it work better?by jaydmdigital - General
In Slic3r config under the filament setting there are inputs for the first layer and all other layer temperature settings.by jaydmdigital - Reprappers
Ok, you can also play with the steps/mm setting using Gcode M92 for example on X-axis: M92 X80.00by jaydmdigital - Reprappers
Pronterface is host software. That means it runs on your computer. Firmware runs on the Sanguinololu (Arduino compatible) and will require you to know enough about the configuration.h to make chnages to it and upload the firmware with Arduino software. This is the deep end of the swimming pool so prepare for a steep learning curve. This link might help you:by jaydmdigital - Reprappers
In your firmware configuration.h file is where the steps per mm is defined. You will want to use the calculator to make it easy.by jaydmdigital - Reprappers
What version of RAMPs are you using? There are three wires on the endstops. Vcc (5 volts), GND (ground or 0 volts) and Signal. When a switch is tripped it connects the signal line to ground. If you have revered these wires, or plugged the connect in such that when a switch is tripped Vcc is shorted to ground, then you efeectively take the Arduino and the RAMPs to 0 volts and no communications wilby jaydmdigital - Reprappers
Doh! Maybe it will quiet the fan noise Thanks.by jaydmdigital - General
Agree, use plywood. More plys is better and Baltic Birch is really nice but pricey. I used a 2 x 4 ' x 1/2" piece of oak plywood for the box. Was able to cut 7 strips from it and then cut them to length from there. As for dual endstops...I have never needed them on any of my CNC machines including both Prusa's. I see that T5 belts are not recommended (it's what I use on my Prusa i2) anymore, so mby jaydmdigital - Reprappers
Sounds like a short on the RAMPs board. Check your endstop connections and make sure they are on GND and Signal and not GND and VCC.by jaydmdigital - Reprappers
Are you going to use a heated bed? If not, then PLA is really you only option (and the only thing I print with). As for the hotend:by jaydmdigital - General