I have used the Red version of this stuff. Same seller, same product, just a different color. It works amazingly well but you have to bake it at 175F for about 3-4 hours to get all of the moisture out. It has a really nice surface finish to it that is very shiny and smooth. When your not using it I would highly suggest putting it in a sealed container with desiccant packets to make sure that itby Iceman086 - General
Thanks! The pics from the German forum help a bit but I am going to have to guess a bit and base the rest off of the original version. The link to "The Nozzle" is the Mark I version of the nozzle. A friend of mine has one and it works pretty well. If I get a good design made I will post some pics of it.by Iceman086 - General
I am looking for the blue prints or a set of dimensions for the Prusa Nozzle Mk2. I am working on a project for a machining class and I wanted to try to make a modified Prusa Nozzle Mk2 to use 1.75 filament. If anyone would mind taking a pic of the nozzle with a ruler next to it or if you could put a quarter or something next to it for size reference that would help a ton! If anyone has the actuby Iceman086 - General
I don't know how much this would effect things. I am going to be running a machine with a 6'-6" tube that runs to a direct drive system. They could also try changing the tube to something with a lower coefficient of friction. I have run my Ultimaker for 70+ hours straight doing 50 micron prints and had no issues with those prints, but that is a different machine. It seems like a second motor wouby Iceman086 - General
Speaking from experience as someone who has designed and is building a machine of the same size I will tell you a few things. Extruder: Your extruder design is god awful. It will fail badly. Designing an all metal hot end isn't to tough and there are ALOT of examples out there that you can draw from. The biggest thing I will tell you is that if that picture is a section view of the extruder, theby Iceman086 - Reprappers
Episode 5 is up! Prusa and Prostheticsby Iceman086 - General
Episode 4 is up! Kickstarter Reviewby Iceman086 - General
Hello Folks! I wanted to post a link to the first 3 episodes of our 3D Printing and Digital Fabrication podcast, .STL! The podcast is shot at Arch Reactor Hacker Space in St. Louis, Missouri. Your are hosts Ryan W., Scott R. and Ryan H./Baslisks. Please let us know what you think and if you have any suggestions for improvements or topics you would like to see us talk about please let us know!by Iceman086 - General
Any news on this product?by Iceman086 - General
Hello, I am working on a large scale machine (in excess of 1 meter cubed) that would use a nozzle with a larger diameter head to allow for thicker layers to decrease print time on large builds. I am considering getting a Prusanozzle and boring out the tip to 1 mm diameter. I would like to get some feedback from others on if they feel this would work? Also, I feel I may need a larger (longer) cby Iceman086 - Developers
I plan on using 8mm precision rods from McMaster. 8mm x 1200mm Hardend Rods PN: 6112k136by Iceman086 - General
ShadowRam Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Iceman086 Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > > I know that more surface area touching the > > rod will mean more friction > > Incorrect, > > Surface Area has no bearing (haha pun) on > friction. > > It's a common misconception. > Frictby Iceman086 - General
I knocked out the design using 2 of the sleeve bearings. I shortened them to the 10mm instead of the 12mm long bearings. I plan on using open ended belts instead of closed loop belts (its a larger design of an Ultimaker). In the top image the rectangles at the top of the object are for belts to feed into. The belts would loop through and be zip tied to themselves. If anyone has any thoughts onby Iceman086 - General
Hello All, I am working on redesigning an XY axis block for the Ultimaker style gantry system. I have been having trouble finding the same sleeve bearings that are used in the UM. I looked at the bearings at VXB but the cost kinda makes me cringe at $25. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the bearings in the bottom link or if they believe that these would work? http://www.vxbby Iceman086 - General
I am considering ordering some 1.75 ABS from Proto Paradign. Has anyone heard of them or bought from them before? If so does their plastic work well? Proto Paradigm Thank you, ~Iceby Iceman086 - General
With a rack and pinion system the gear moving the axis rods along the XY plane which means that the motor would have to move with the axis rod. That means that there is more weight moving along the axis which means more momentum. I want to try to keep the parts moving the axis rods as light as possible to keep backlash and extra movement to a minimum. I considered using a rack and pinion systemby Iceman086 - Developers
@Traumflug I agree, I was just looking at it the wrong way. I have been trying to perfect a design without doing any building. Its all experimental so why not just build it and see what happens. Thanks for the comment!by Iceman086 - Developers
I did think about using belts in the original design that I had for the printer. The problem became a matter of "where can I find belts that are 84" long?" then it was, "can a belt of that size do a continuous run for up to 48 hours on large scale prints?" Even if the belts are tightened regularly, over a distance like that with no tensioning wheel (though one could be added to the design) runninby Iceman086 - Developers
The Following Post Is Picture Heavy!!!! I posted this in the Developers forum a little while ago and recieved plenty of views but no replies. I am just looking for some constructive critisism. I appologise for the double posting (here and in the Developers forum). I am planning on using Torqspline Screw Rods for linear motion on my X and Y axis. I have been looking around and designing parts aby Iceman086 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Its been a few days, does anyone out there have any input of any kind?by Iceman086 - Developers
The Following Post Is Picture Heavy!!!! I am planning on using Torqspline Screw Rods for linear motion on my X and Y axis. I have been looking around and designing parts and here is what I have come up with. This is a picture of the final assembly, unfortunatly is is upside down in solidworks. But I threw this all together and I haven't had time to correct this yet. The parts in the picture belby Iceman086 - Developers
They do ship internationally. For a 3/8" diameter rod with 0.500 pitch threads its $10.31 per foot. So about $33.85 for a meter (roughly 3.2 feet) before shipping. Their website is really simple to find things on. Here is the link to the torqspline page though. **EDIT** I posted that from my phone and forgot to add in the link to the Roton page. Sorry about that! Here are 2 links to the generaby Iceman086 - Developers
From what I found out from the manufacturer of the screws, the Torqspline screws are used in pick and place machines. So they have alot of accuracy and good speed. The speed though is determined by the pitch that is used on the screws. So if I went with the highest pitch available in that type for a 1/2" rod, it would mean that it is the fastest rod in that class. This was a result that I recievby Iceman086 - Developers
The idea above has been scraped in favor of a new design that uses Acme screws to move the Z axis. 2 Screws will be used to move the Z axis up and down. Each will be run by its own high torque motor in order to evenly distribute the weight. I chose to move in this new direction to avoid the use of sprockets and chain. I really didn't want to use sprockets or chain to begin with but I was willingby Iceman086 - Developers
Here is the a quick model of the design that I was talking about. The chain is not shown, but it would go around the three gears. The center gear would be larger than the outer two since it is the drive gear.by Iceman086 - Developers
Hello, A while back I started gathering parts for my 3D printer. Due to school and a few curve balls from life I had to stop but I am now starting to move forward project again. The plan is to create a gantry system for the printer head with a Z axis platform. I wanted to use 2 screws on the Z platform, 1 for the X axis and 1 for the Y axis. The printer itself would be a large scale printer witby Iceman086 - Developers
Yes, masonite is MDF. It comes in 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" thickness(about 6, 12 and 19mm respectively). It is pretty still but I managed to one some good hardwood sheets as well for about $20 US. I think that I should be able to help reinforce the structure with some angle brackets made from L shaped steel channel. As always I am open to suggestions for alternative materials or is something has beeby Iceman086 - Reprappers
Just out of curiosity, how well would something like this work over a distance of say just over 2 feet?by Iceman086 - Mechanics
If you want cheap and easy to use/learn then there is Sketchup. Its a great program with alot of features and design tools. But its not as exact as some of the other programs that are out here. Otherwise there is SolidWorks, Inventor and ACAD 3D (the 3D side of Auto Desk's: ACAD program which has a 3D feature but it can be a pain in the ass to learn). Each of those is great for industrial and meby Iceman086 - 3D Design tools
***Update*** A few days ago I purchased 4 Nema 23 Motors for about $40 (after shipping) and a 24v Power Supply for $15 (with shipping). So now I have 2 of the 3 things I need to start making stuff move! I have been talking to JoeM about purchasing one of his Sanguinololu 1.0's as well. So hopefully I can start to play with moving motors and things while I begin to put the rest of this beast togeby Iceman086 - Reprappers