I *really* wish there was a good 3D milling solution that could handle STL files in a reasonable manner (Fusion 360 sucks at it). I'm tempted to roll my own, but I know I'll never have the time to really do it right.by spiffcow - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
So this is something I've been working on for the last few months.. It's pretty much done now aside from minor tweaks, and I'm pretty happy with it. It can cut a 4x8 plywood sheet with room to spare, was insanely cheap to build (I'm guessing around $700 including the table and router, but I need to write up a BoM) and requires only 3D printed specialty parts.. Check it out and let me know whatby spiffcow - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I really like smoothieware (running it on my CoreXY) and I agree the configuration is nice. With my current setup I get the impression that it's a bit choppy WRT movements over the print bed. It wasn't as much of an issue before I switched to magnets, but now the occasional PETG burnt glob will have enough force to knock off an effector arm. I think the globs are occuring because it's not moviby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Has anyone here upgraded their electronics? If so, did it make a difference in print quality?by spiffcow - Delta Machines
In case anyone is interested, I have posted models and a SCAD file for printed ball arms that seem to work pretty well: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1836466by spiffcow - Delta Machines
meq123, how did your raised effector turn out? Did you publish it anywhere? I'm just getting around to switching to a magnetic effector, and I'd like to try this out.by spiffcow - Delta Machines
So I think I'm going to go the magnet route.. I *really* hate cutting carbon fiber though, and was thinking of just getting some threaded steel balls and 6 M4 hardened steel threaded rods. I haven't really seen this done before though.. Does anyone know a reason it wouldn't work?by spiffcow - Delta Machines
I dunno about trimmer line (why???), but I've had great success with Taulman 645 and Bridge using Printbite. I start the bed at 95C and increase to 105C after the first layer, with 265C nozzle temp, with 30 rounds of skirt lines. With the Bridge filament I get absolutely no warping whatsoever, and with the 645 the warping is very minimal. One thing to note, Printbite needs to be "broken in"by spiffcow - General
On the topic of belts.. Have you looked into the white steel-reinforced GT2 belts? It looks like a slightly larger idler at the top would be needed, but the 20 tooth pulleys should be about perfect for it. I have some I'm planning to try as soon as I get my kossel put back together.. I had originally bought them for my core xy printer, but they're not suitable for the 16 tooth profile that itby spiffcow - Delta Machines
How much are you thinking of selling them for? There's a few commercial options around $65 and up right now.by spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteUncleSas Quoteav8r1 It may be that different industries use terms slightly differently. My aviation background associates threads which are heated, assembled and allowed to cool to lock them into place with the phrase "interference fit." Whatever we choose to call it, the physics are there. That use of "interference fit" is an interesting term of art which I speculate is specific to aviatiby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotemeq123 Quotespiffcow Quotemeq123 [...] I noticed a very novel idea in the way the Micromake effector is designed, where the effector plate is made as a kind of "A" shape with the top of the hot end raised much higher than the pivot points of the arms. That would seem to me that it would reduce the effects (amplitude) of tilt and backlash considerably on the movement of the nozzle tip. Iby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteUncleSas Has anyone replaced the wheels on the carriages? Mine wobble a lot (~1mm deflection in the carriage) because the bearings are sloppy, and I think that's where most of the ringing I'm getting is coming from. If you have replaced them, what did you use? I'm thinking about the Open Builds V Wheels, but don't know if any of their offerings will work with the regular 2020. There are alby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotemeq123 I was just looking at the "Has any one built the Micromake printer?" thread (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,545625) and decided to look at it on the Aliexpress selling page. I noticed a very novel idea in the way the Micromake effector is designed, where the effector plate is made as a kind of "A" shape with the top of the hot end raised much higher than the pivot points ofby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Btw, you really can just run the 3 wires to a 3 pin connector and run the probe at 5V. It works fine, I've done it on 2 printers now. You might lose a little height on it, but at 4mm max measurement, you're not putting glass over it anyway.by spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce Added. Suitable for 10 mm steel balls and 6 mm carbon rod. Nice!by spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce Hey! In addition to Legrand: - ATX PSUs are pretty good bets when it comes to exchanging the power supply. They come with all bells and whistles (short protection, built-in fan, power switch, overload protection etc.) and are rather cheap when bought used. I got one for 30 bucks. - Jig: If you take your time and use the jig to glue *one rod after the other* and not all at once, youby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Follow up: So I got a very good Benchy at 120mm/s with the airstruder, but I've been unable to test faster speeds due to inadequate cooling. I have to print at 210C or higher at that speed, and my fan can't keep up.. I also noticed that the springs tend to pull the arms toward the center of the plate, so I'm thinking that may be why I'm not seeing much in the way of ill effects. When I have tby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Did you try >90mm/s printing? I think the whole assembly will have too much inertia to get adequate quality for high sped. I have not.. I have been using PETG for the last month or so, and high speed printing with that stuff is a bad idea. I'm almost out though, so I'll switch to PLA and give it a try . I have been impressed as to the relatively low amount of backlash tby spiffcow - Delta Machines
So last night I set up an airstruder (basically suspending the extruder above the print head and using a ~6 inch bowden tube). I'm still recalibrating, but I have to say the results so far have been amazing, and it was probably the one of the easiest mods I've done to my kossel. My only complaint is that the effector drops after the motors disengage. Has anyone else tried this out? Have you sby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteZoolander06 Hello, Thank you all for your advices ! A lot of people told me about the Prusa I3, but I have to say that I kind of dislike this design. I know it's efficient, and easy for the newbies, but I don't like moving Y axis... And maybe I'm an outsider, I don't like the easy way So my choice is not definitive, but for now, I prefer deltas... I think I'm capable of setting it up, eby spiffcow - Delta Machines
If I was to do it over again and lived in Europe I would probably order this: Your first printer is always going to be inadequate in some way. I love my FT Kossel but I'm building a large corexy from scratch and enjoying the ability to source parts depending on where I see the need for quality vs price.by spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand I've tried all sorts of bed solutions: ABS slurry: Stinks to high heaven, PITA to get off the remnants, didn't like at all. Glass bed: Doesn't conform to the heat bed, so possible air gaps which will slow down heating. Prints stuck OK. Didn't like that I had to clip on and off all the time. Nozzle head hit clips sometimes on large prints. Blue painters tape: 3DXTech brand: waby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow You'll need 0.92.8 to use this feature IIRC. I installed the latest version, and it looks like in the latest version they have fixed their bed correction to normalize at (0,0) and give you the output at G33 commands, so my app is no longer needed for migrating the data when you change z height. Is converting from 0.92.6 to 0.92.8 just a matter of flashing the boarby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow What firmware are you on? Repetier supports bump-mapped Z correction, which mitigates the unevenness by quite a bit. The surface in contact with the bed might be off slightly, but the print head will always be the same distance above the bed. I'm using Repetier... That sounds just like what I need, do you have a link by chance? Tby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow What firmware are you on? Repetier supports bump-mapped Z correction, which mitigates the unevenness by quite a bit. The surface in contact with the bed might be off slightly, but the print head will always be the same distance above the bed. I'm using Repetier... That sounds just like what I need, do you have a link by chance?by spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow Is a glass plate really worth it? I've been pretty happy with my aluminum plate... I just put some blue tape on it and everything sticks like crazy and the bed heats up quickly. I have noticed I don't even have to be careful with the tape -- it gets cut or scratched, but until it starts looking like swiss cheese I still get good adhesion and a smooth bottom surfaby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Is a glass plate really worth it? I've been pretty happy with my aluminum plate... I just put some blue tape on it and everything sticks like crazy and the bed heats up quickly. I have noticed I don't even have to be careful with the tape -- it gets cut or scratched, but until it starts looking like swiss cheese I still get good adhesion and a smooth bottom surface. And when it *does* look liby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotedocpayce @Captain_Tim: There is so much to do. I am planning a youtube video on that. I did: - Use paul_delta's z probe (today I use mine with an endstop) instead of original one - Reprinted the effector - E3D V6, yes, with a new fan setup (2 fans cooling the print, one the hot end) - Glass on top of the heated bed, clamped down with either paper clips or picture frame cby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce @foryst: Leveling the top triangle is *NOT* as important as you might think. The position of that triangle and the endstops is easily compensated by endstop offsets in Repetier and Marlin. Especially if you use tools such as dc42's (Escher) delta calculator. I suggest to loosen the top triangle at one tower, pull it upwards quite strongly to tension the belt and fasten the triangle-by spiffcow - Delta Machines