Quoteforyst Quotedocpayce I went as far as to look at the resitors on the driver boards with a microscope to check the values. *If* you received the same drivers (I would bet), the exact voltages are 0.32 V for the small NEMA17's (gives 0.4 amps) and 0.64ish for the big extruder one (0.8A - can go to 1.2A if you want to). Note that the print you are aiming for is reaaaally hard to do, especiallyby spiffcow - Delta Machines
I'm considering sourcing and building a bare-bones SmartRapCore, and I wanted to know what quality and speed people are actually getting? My current printer is a kossel with cheap components but well-tuned. I have read great things about CoreXY, and about SmartRapCore as an inexpensive CoreXY implementation, but not a lot in terms of actual quality of prints. Is there a clear quality differeby spiffcow - Smart_Rap
The picture links are dead Any advances on this? I have a fairly tall delta printer and no easy source of aluminum extrusions.. This would be particularly interesting to me in that certain parts could be directly integrated into the build, rather than bolting them to extrusions.by spiffcow - Developers
Quoteforyst Fun fact! The revision of Marlin that FoglerTech has in their file store isn't actually based on a full-spec Marlin 1.0.x, and so DC42's site will help to calculate the smooth rod length, but not the endstop offset, since the M665 and M666 commands are literally not in the code base of that repo (okay, DC42's site will technically still calculate it, but you won't be able to do anythiby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta PS: try to print something in vase mode (spiral, single wall) - is the external surface acceptable in this case? Here's one pic.. I'm in the middle of a long print job, but I'll try vase mode when its done. The fan in the pic isn't in vase mode, but i'm pretty happy with how it came out. The cube just didn't bridge at all though, and the tops of things are really rough if theyby spiffcow - Delta Machines
So last night I finally got a perfect delta calibration print (this one ). I'm pretty psyched, but I notice my prints are still not as smooth as I would like. And by that I mean that they have a physically rough texture. I'm wondering if this is due to the jiggle of the traxxas connectors and the error in length between them, and was considering getting a set of preassembled magnetic arms. Has anby spiffcow - Delta Machines
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QuoteEvilBetty Quotedocpayce @EvilBetty: Niiiiice setup! Got a thingiverse link? Let us know the results!!! So far it looks like the new arms made a ton of difference. They're da'bomb! (whaahaa) Very nice! And that was just with a new set of traxxas arms?by spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce I did order a 290 mm rod set two weeks ago and will test them. For me the calculation was as following: 1) I have ok print quality in a 70 mm radius, good quality in 60 mm radius. But I would like to have ~ 100 mm radius. 2) My max printing height (at *full* radius) is appr. 240 mm. I dont need that, I am ok with 200 mm'ish. So: I have ~40 mm spare in z and want the radius to be ~4by spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce Quotespiffcow Quotepaul_delta I guess larger effector theoreticaly will have less noticeable tilt with the same rod length. I mean it will hide rods imperfection. I would have assumed the opposite.. More distance across the effector means more area to tilt. So if in a 2D slice the tilt was y=0.05x, then over 20mm it would be a difference of 1mm across the effector, but over 40mmby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow So I just thought I would mention something I discovered over the last few days... So I had been having issues lately with the printable bed being too small (about 90mm radius). I was too cheap to order new arms, and decided to try creating a larger effector instead. I extended the arms out about 20mm and made a few other mods that were helpful to me. I got a laby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta I guess larger effector theoreticaly will have less noticeable tilt with the same rod length. I mean it will hide rods imperfection. I would have assumed the opposite.. More distance across the effector means more area to tilt. So if in a 2D slice the tilt was y=0.05x, then over 20mm it would be a difference of 1mm across the effector, but over 40mm it would be a difference ofby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow So I just thought I would mention something I discovered over the last few days... So I had been having issues lately with the printable bed being too small (about 90mm radius). I was too cheap to order new arms, and decided to try creating a larger effector instead. I extended the arms out about 20mm and made a few other mods that were helpful to me. I got a laby spiffcow - Delta Machines
So I just thought I would mention something I discovered over the last few days... So I had been having issues lately with the printable bed being too small (about 90mm radius). I was too cheap to order new arms, and decided to try creating a larger effector instead. I extended the arms out about 20mm and made a few other mods that were helpful to me. I got a larger build radius as expected,by spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce QuoteGingerbreadman ... will there be a problem if I simply screw it on to the same terminals currently feeding 12v to my bed auto level sensor? Nope, not a problem. I still have all my fans connected via D9 and let Repetier control the fans to switch on above 60°C hotend temperature. Have yet to run into problems using this method... but connecting it to main PSU 12V is certainby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteEvilBetty Quotedocpayce I did order a 290 mm rod set two weeks ago and will test them. For me the calculation was as following: 1) I have ok print quality in a 70 mm radius, good quality in 60 mm radius. But I would like to have ~ 100 mm radius. 2) My max printing height (at *full* radius) is appr. 240 mm. I dont need that, I am ok with 200 mm'ish. So: I have ~40 mm spare in z and want theby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta If it will not help - swap X and Y motors and home again. If Y tower will not move - probably the motor is dead. If X tower will not move after swapping - the chance that X driver is dead. Good advice. Also, if the driver is dead.. You have a spare on the board.by spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Over the past few days, I've been printing on my Kossel, some calibration cubes, as well as a fan shroud (Thanks Paul_Delta), and a dampening foot (I still need to print 5 more). I turned it on today, loaded a file to print into Repetier, sliced it, and hit print. The bed started to heat up, and it reached it's 60 degree mark. It went to home, and this is where something odd happby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim When using dc42's calculator, which EEPROM setting gets modified for the "tower position angle corrections"? Is it Alpha A/B/C, Delta Radius A/B/C, or something different? I didn't see an offset for the angle correction, so I modified the angles of the towers. A is the 'X' offset (typically 210 degrees), B is the 'Y' offset (330 degrees), and C is 'Z' offset (90 degrees). Modiby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteEvilBetty Does anyone here have any luck getting their bed above 110 deg C? I can get to 70 really quick. 110 after about 5-10 minutes with a room temp of about 68-70. But haven't yet been able to reach 115 deg C. I'm setup in the basement so I'm wondering if I'm fighting against my ambient room temp. (Rel humidity about 35%) -EB Mine can't get past 105.. I'm guessing the power supplby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim QuoteEvilBetty This might help you... REPRAP 101: CALIBRATING YOUR EXTRUDER Watching that video, he says that his ESteps are 900 by default, mine is 370. Now I know that just because his is 900 doesn't mean mine will be there, but 370 does seem very low. I would do a lot more testing, but this extruder gear will just not grip on the filament. It just grinds it up. I'll try to rby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Quotespiffcow On mine I had to disassemble the extruder, loosen the set screws, and move the gear further out. It's still a crappy choice of gears though, and tends to deform the filament I'll try that. Is there a different gear that I can buy that you guys recommend to replace the current gear? Not at present -- I'm still using the one that came with it. Most extruders seemby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim My extruder doesn't catch the filament very well, so that may be where my problem lies. Is there a way to tighten the extruder so more pressure is put on the bearing to push the filament against the gear so it will go in? On mine I had to disassemble the extruder, loosen the set screws, and move the gear further out. It's still a crappy choice of gears though, and tends to defoby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim I have yet to calibrate my extruder. This would be a very wise decision to do so. I completely forgot to do this. I'm still happy that it even printed the cube, as I was expecting it to fail pretty hard first try. No shame in being excited to see something print I'm serious about the steppers though. If you don't tune them, they *will* overheat and skip steps. Make sure allby spiffcow - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim Printed my first print last night, a 20mm calibration cube. Turned out better than I expected, but my printer needs a lot of work soon. Using my calipers, I know the sides aren't 20mm, I know the Z is off by about 0.2mm, and I can't remember which axis is which but the X and Y are off by 0.18mm and 0.07mm. The layers also seem to be having issue, maybe it's speed, heat, or extrudby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta This is just one of variants. Usually the central part has a spring between the sensor and surface to hold it in place. I was going to redesign this probe for my needs but after success with my zero offset probe mount I decided to stop my research. Quotespiffcow That effector doesn't look like it holds in the hot end by anything other than gravity.. do you know if this is the caby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Here is another "hot end as probe" solution if you want to have a fun That effector doesn't look like it holds in the hot end by anything other than gravity.. do you know if this is the case? If so I might switch to it. That would make my probing process a lot easierby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Quotespiffcow Also, I notice there is a copyright notice now that I didn't notice before: "These calculators are COPYRIGHT Escher Technologies Ltd. Please don't steal them!" Does your previous statement (that the code is GPL) hold true? If not I will take down my app. Likewise if you personally would prefer that I remove it until I re-implement the calculations on my own. I mean no offeby spiffcow - Delta Machines
Yep, that would be pretty awesome! You could just set it on auto-calibrate and stop it once it's as close as you want it. It would also allow testing targeted points for a settings change (e.g. test an angle correction based on the expected output of the previous data points to determine if it corrected the problem). I'm getting kinda psyched about this project. QuoteCaptain_Tim Do keep usby spiffcow - Delta Machines
I'll take a look at converting to a plugin this weekend and keep you informed. I might also look into converting their bed height calculator to use better points for delta printers (the whole grid-based height map doesn't really correspond to where you typically find errors for delta printers after all). QuoteCaptain_Tim As a student completely my 3 year advanced diploma for programming, and aby spiffcow - Delta Machines