For the test cube, should I also move the location in the print bed? The slicer is Cura and I'm using cubic Infill. Also, are you suggesting I drop the temp as well? Tonight I'll try using your suggested settings. I'll make a few prints with one seeing adjusted each time. Let me know if there is a pattern I should use to adjust the settings. I e going down or up in temp by 5 degrees each time.by The3rdIcon - Printing
Roxy, Thanks for letting me know Marlin will be able to handle the movement just fine. But what about those tools? That is going to be the challenge for me to integrate into the firmware. Do you have a suggestion about how to intergrate those tools? Would you say adding custom M command to get it to control a vacuum via a relay or a servo related to a claw is the best approach? Do you know if tby The3rdIcon - Firmware - Marlin
I have a Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3. Its been giving me issues here and there. The issues of the day seem to be that I'm getting tiny wholes everywhere and I think maybe cooling issues. I'm using Cura 3.0.4 as my slicer. I'd really like to find a way to improve the smaller details of my prints at .2 layer height before I try and do anything more detailed. Please let me know if you need moreby The3rdIcon - Printing
Hello, I've seen someone post marlin as firmware for a scara arm robot. I know how this works with a 3d print but I was curious if someone can point me to some resources that would help me modify the firmware so I could integrate robot arm specific commands. For example, open and close robot claw via a servo, turn on or off a vacuum gripper. Would I most likely be modifying current gcode commanby The3rdIcon - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteInhumierer QuoteThe3rdIcon I'm using cura 2.6.2 mostly because of the infill options. I've considered switching to slic3r. The one thing I don't like about Cura is when I've tried to increase the min layer time if I make it too large it will not let me slice. [...] As far as placement on the build plate to test if the ripples wonder. Is there a distance you can recommend of how far away froby The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteChri QuoteThe3rdIcon QuoteChri QuoteThe3rdIcon QuoteChri Can you upload the gcode files ? Chri Sorry I didn't notice this before. I'll post it when I get home tonight. So you have a specific version in mind or just the newest one. the one which you think is the best so far and from which you want to go further. also X/Y/Z Acceleration and Jerk of the FW would be good to know. Chri I'mby The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteInhumierer Your calibration cube top surface looks way better now. The benchy chimneys show lots of signs of too hot layers, they didn't have enought time to cool down. They're literally melting while printing. I don't know which Cura version you're using. Mine doesn't have coasting integrated, so it must be a different one. cool_min_layer_time is too small for ABS, try 30 or 45. Usually foby The3rdIcon - Printing
Sorry it took me so long by my additional Benchys and the double cube are now up Double cube I felt came out really well. The Benchy's not so much. The suffice still has a bunch of pits. It the tops are all look chewed on. While I was able to improve the stringiness the overhangs were all still horrible. I'm going to try another print with the temp as high as the double cubes since that has beeby The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteThe3rdIcon Quoteobewan Try printin 2 cubes at the same time, this will allow extra time for the layers to cool I understand this logic but wouldn't the benchy test be a work around? So printing 20 mm cube resulted in the best top layer I've had. The walls still appear to have minor under extrusion and waves similar to before. Does this mean that I might still want to drop the over all temby The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteChri QuoteThe3rdIcon QuoteChri Can you upload the gcode files ? Chri Sorry I didn't notice this before. I'll post it when I get home tonight. So you have a specific version in mind or just the newest one. the one which you think is the best so far and from which you want to go further. also X/Y/Z Acceleration and Jerk of the FW would be good to know. Chri I'm already tracking 21 diffeby The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteChri Can you upload the gcode files ? Chri Sorry I didn't notice this before. I'll post it when I get home tonight. So you have a specific version in mind or just the newest one.by The3rdIcon - Printing
Quoteobewan Try printin 2 cubes at the same time, this will allow extra time for the layers to cool I understand this logic but wouldn't the benchy test be a work around?by The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteInhumierer QuoteThe3rdIcon I haven't dropped the speed down to 40 yet. I'll try that tonight but I would like to work back up to 60. Is the cube 10 or 20 mm? You're printing one cube at a time? Lower to 20mm/s, or print 4 or 9 cubes at once. QuoteThe3rdIconMy stepper motor drivers are A4988 Stepper Drivers. It is a geared and the extruder motor is mounted on the hot end. The side perimeter aby The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteThe3rdIcon QuoteInhumierer The Z surface looks a bit like you're printing too hot and/or too fast to let the object cool down before the next layer. Although 222 deg seems to be way too cold for ABS, I print mine at 247. The side walls look like your printer is swinging or resonating when printing the outer walls. Do the vertical ripples change, when you print at half speed? What's your driby The3rdIcon - Printing
QuoteInhumierer The Z surface looks a bit like you're printing too hot and/or too fast to let the object cool down before the next layer. Although 222 deg seems to be way too cold for ABS, I print mine at 247. The side walls look like your printer is swinging or resonating when printing the outer walls. Do the vertical ripples change, when you print at half speed? What's your driver? Geared or dby The3rdIcon - Printing
In this link is a photo of the past 5 prints I've done from every angle along with the relevant cura settings and the material I've used. I could be wrong about the printing setting selecting if that is so please let me know. I'm printing on a second hand folger tech reprap 2020 prusa i3 with a E3dv6 hot end. I'm looking to resolve the following issues. Zits and blobs on the X & Y holes iby The3rdIcon - Printing
Quotefrankvdh I agree that your part looks to be under-extruded. Why are you extruding at 85-90% and not at 100%? The only time I would do that would be if I measured the filament and found it to be *much* too fat. If the measured filament is 1.72mm, the correct factor would be (1.75*1.75)/(1.72*1.72) = 103% Can you explain where this math comes from? I'm not familiar with 3d printer more so deby The3rdIcon - Printing
Quotechris33 if your printing pla the fan is a defo what speed are you printing? what type of extruder have you got? what temps are you printing at? start with the extruder is it been calibrated? 100% but My current fan seem to have stopped working. I'm going to add this and this since I've heard centrifugal fan are better for this application. I have a direct extruder similar to this but with tby The3rdIcon - Printing
Hello, In the past I've received minimal help when I've asked questions about my second hand Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3. I'm not sure if it is because I've posted too little or too much information or the tone of the question/writing or something else. On the side of providing information about my slicer settings, I don't know how much info is too much. I realize the program I'm using isby The3rdIcon - Printing
I was recently thinking about purchasing a MP Ultimate but I have been hearing bad things about the mother boards often failing along with not much information about what settings I would need to enter into a slicer. ( I would like to learn more about the slicer settings but most my xp has been with Makerbot desktop software and settings already selected for Simplify3d but this is a post for anotby The3rdIcon - General
Care to share our set up?by The3rdIcon - Paste Extrusion Working Group
So I'm designing a 4 way cross for a PVC tent. I have that part in openscad and that is where I'm designing the support as well. No matter how I design the support i still get spagetti under the 90 hangover and the cylinder gets warped. When I did try to design my own support they would come off the build plate before I got to the 144th layer where the bridge starts. If anyone knows where onlineby The3rdIcon - General
A friend of mine said he'd print the parts at cost but I want to make sure he can do it. I figure if his printer can do it might reduce some of the costs. Thanks for your help in advance and sorry if I posted this in the wrong place look forward to joining the club.by The3rdIcon - Prusa i3 and variants
I have never send any kind of information about the cost per cubic mm of each printer. So I have have put together a google form that I would appreciate if everyone who has a printer could fill out the form. I need at least 30 people per printer to be able to consider the information about the printer to be valid for statistical purposes. I plan on making a Inforgraph and posting the final resulby The3rdIcon - General
Just as the title says I need some parts printed so I can assemble a Morgan. If anything right now I'm looking for estimates on the all the printed parts since I would like to be able to receive them all at once. As this will allow me to assemble it together in one weekend. I live just outside of Philadelphia, PA. The files can be located here Please include your location & preferred methby The3rdIcon - Wanted
I first want to say that these aren't complete Newbie Question as I did read the Post that you should read before you post. Situation: On Arduino day 3D Hubs had post a promotional code giving credit to users. This Promotional Code, which gives me $15, expires on April 11th. I want to use it to start Printing Morgan parts but first I need to get some answer about Repraps and 3D printers in Geneby The3rdIcon - General