The ones you linked should work better than using threaded rods. The nuts should be fine, too. Don't worry about antibacklash nuts for the Z axis- gravity keeps the screws loaded with the weight of the X axis. For X and Y axis you will need to use anti-backlash nuts with lead screws or get ball screws and nuts that have almost no backlash. My printer has acme screws (imperial threads) in theby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
If you're talking about using belts to lift the bed in the Z axis instead of screws, it might be workable. If you're talking about lifting the X axis, I say don't do it. The problem with lifting the X axis becomes apparent when power fails. The axis will come crashing down, smashing the extruder into the print/bed. You could use an electronic clutch to prevent that, and counterweight the X axby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
If a motor skips one step, it's going to skip many, and yes, you'll have problems. That's why it is better to keep the screws synced mechanically. There is less to go wrong. If the motor skips, all screws remain synced. You still have to find the problem and fix it, but you won't have to realign the axes. With multiple screws lifting a bed, especially if there's a screw at each corner, misseby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
You have to calculate the required torque for the motor, then get a motor that can deliver that torque. NEMA-17 motors are limited to about 100 oz-in. You can calculate the torque using the motor sizing tools at the Oriental Motor web site.by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Fixing things for the first layer doesn't guarantee they'll keep turning in sync for every layer of a print- if it did all these people wouldn't have so much trouble keeping the screws working in sync. A small misstep in one screw will quickly ruin the print, and Murphy's law guarantees it will happen about 12 hours into a 13 hour print. Now if you went to the trouble of putting servos on all tby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
If you stick it to a piece of aluminum the heat will have a chance to spread out. Don't trust IR thermometers. Get a thermocouple and a DMM. You'll get more accurate temperature readings.by the_digital_dentist - Developers
I did something similar to make a flexible ribbon to carry power to my heated bed. I cut strips of copper tape and sandwiched them between two layers of 5 mil thick Kapton tape. I have yet to test it on the printer, but it should handle the 22A my bed uses with only a couple degree temperature rise if my calculations are close to correct.by the_digital_dentist - Developers
Nevermind...by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Wha??? PID parameters are set in the firmware of the printer/controller board. I'm not terribly fond of Windows, but I have a difficult time imagining ANY scenario (well, OK, maybe in some strange parallel universe), including a Windows update, that could possibly alter the firmware in your printer. Oh wait, I can see one scenario- were you flashing new firmware when windows decided to rebootby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
It isn't cantilevered if you lower the Z axis using multiple screws (three points define a plane, so 3 should be enough). That's too much trouble and expense for most builders, so they use a single screw and cantilever the bed. If you have to cantilever something, the slow, small movements of the Z axis are the least problematic. The larger the bed, the more trouble cantilevering will be. Usiby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
25 mm is a pretty small object to use to calibrate- errors in the print size may be swamped by errors in your measurement instrument. Print 100mm object for better results. Error in print size will be larger and less likely to be masked by error in your measurement device/technique. New steps/mm = target size / actual size x old steps/mm The acceleration and jerk settings are in the config.hby the_digital_dentist - General Mendel Topics
Generally speaking, you select motors based upon the loads they will see. Big builds, especially with the bed moving in 1 or 2 axes, will require big motors and probably bigger drivers than those that come on the typical printer electronics packages. If you want a big build envelope avoid moving the bed in any but the Z axis. Cantilevering anything isn't a good idea for a large build envelopeby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Interesting, but it assumes that the axes will all be static- i.e. the X axis alignment isn't going to change. If you have a problem like the OPs, where the axis keeps tilting, the compensation won't work unless you keep redoing the test print and measurements. I think it's still best to align the axes to be orthogonal and lock them down so they can't move- which generally means a single motorby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Have you tried reducing acceleration and jerk settings?by the_digital_dentist - General Mendel Topics
That's very interesting! How does it work? What does it use for input?by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
So you're aligning the bed perpendicular to the Z axis rails (in the X axis) and then aligning the physical X axis parallel to the bed? So next you level in the Y axis which will change the bed's X axis alignment (because the levelers almost always affect both), so you align it back the the physical X axis? In many/most machines the bed has to be releveled frequently for many reasons- it's notby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Motor sizes are determined by torque required to move their load and the way you want to move it. For a given load, higher acceleration means higher torque is required. You can figure out approximately how much torque you need for your printer by using : Motor Sizing Tools It can be a little intimidating at first, but play with it a little and you'll quickly see it isn't so hard to use. Dby the_digital_dentist - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I spent an hour or so this morning designing a web cam adapter for my telescope. It came out pretty good: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/web-cam-adapter-for-meade-telescope-eyepiece Here's a short video shot through it- the cars driving by on the road are about 1/2 mile away...by the_digital_dentist - Look what I made!
Printing a rectangle shows you how the axes are aligned. If they are not orthogonal, the diagonals won't match. There is nothing you can do in Cura to compensate, though theoretically corrections could be applied in software. Until something like that is incorporated into the slicing software you have to physically adjust the positions of the axes on the machine. When adjusting the X/Y orthogoby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
This is the problem with using two motors for the Z axis. Using two motors does NOT make alignment easier. It does make it easier to throw the alignment off - all you need is for one of the screws to bind or for someone with curious fingers to come along and turn one of the screws. If one motor doesn't turn with the other, the axis alignment is thrown off. Tilting the bed to compensate onlyby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
I think it would be better to get properly hardened rods. Then the whole thing will live longer than you will.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Quotegordonendersby I also managed to wear grooves into my x-axis smooth rods with cheap lm8uu bearings. Even using lythium grease from first fitting. Gordon If you're wearing grooves into the rods its because the rods are not made for ball bearings. Ball bearings require a hardened surface or they WILL chew grooves into it. Unfortunately, the market is awash in low quality rods and bearingsby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Check motor current- set too high can increase vibration. What size motor?by the_digital_dentist - Printing
You could eliminate the need for absolute bed flatness and a heater by printing on a sacrificial layer of plastic foam, the way some older StrataSys industrial machines did (still do?). You have to bury the extruder nozzle into the foam for the first layer, so I'm not sure it would be good for a delta- many use magnets to suspend the extruder on the effectors- the extruder might move or the effby the_digital_dentist - General
Yes, using support material will cost a few cents more and take longer to print, but probably not as much or as long as printing multiple failures. Some designs are not well suited to FDM printing. If you don't/won't use support material, this is one of them. In this case, the best recommendation for successful printing is to turn on support material.by the_digital_dentist - Printing
Turn on support material (will use a lot of plastic and slow things down, but will all be inside the bell), set the slicer for multiple top/bottom layers, try thinner layers up near the top (though you're already pretty thin). An alternative would be to print it upside down with support turned on- then there would probably just be support on the outside, right under the area you're having probleby the_digital_dentist - Printing
You need to output a higher resolution STL file from AutoCAD. There should be some options available.by the_digital_dentist - Printing
Try reducing jerk.by the_digital_dentist - Printing
If you're getting into 3D printing thinking you can just push a button and receive your part you've been drinking too much of the marketing dept kool-aid. You're going to spend a lot of time messing around no matter what. You can spend that time trying to get your machine working each time you try to print, or you can put the time (and a few more $) in up-front to make the machine more reliableby the_digital_dentist - General