I'm sorry? It's not the macine that may cause the faultiness, it's most likely the software I guess. You can (if you want to spend that money) get yourself "Deskartes 3Data Expert" That tool can split large objects into various small ones that can be combined afterwards. => No need for a larger RepRap No need to print several days at once, less chance of failures (easier to do it again ) 'by sid - Reprappers
Okay; i'll keep it short: So you call yourself reprapper to announce RepRap's failing... well chosen nick then Nevermind. As long as people are working on improvements a project CANNOT fail, as soon as noone cares about it, it has failed. There's nothing in between fab@home has failed (unfortunately and mostly because of the price) you can have a commercial machine for the same price by theby sid - General
M8 is 1.25mm/rev at least all mine are. Nevermind, bad if speed is needed, But afair nophead lifts the nozzle by 0.4mm to clear, that would be 64 steps.. with a 200step/rev stepper or 128 with the 400 step/rev stepper. I think that shouldn't take too long the controler is capable of at least 1500 pulses/sec (halfsteps or steps) so it'll take a tenth of a second to raise or lower the plattforby sid - Mechanics
I'm unsure if the antibacklash system is needed at all.. see, gravity will force the table down no matter what. As you say compromise... a compromise would be having the Driveing nut FLAT with the table, and because of gravity ( ) just ONE hole in the build table (per corner for sure) and one of those: maybe ? because the studding isn't fixed at the top, I think there will be a problem withby sid - Mechanics
so.. what do we do next? what about sintered brass like the bush bearings tend to be? should stand some temperatur and is slippery (at least on metal) but as it has a rough surface I don't know what would happen with semi- or molten plastic ? Anyone? 'sidby sid - Mechanics
as you say that ..yes, all done by "multistage" drive screws. but I've found some "handdrill" that is actually an extruder for plastics. (uups, THAT IS a large picture.. sorry, now linked only) I think one could "replicate" something like that, can't one ? (oh and as I write that I'm sure viktor already has something similar on his shell... ) 'sidby sid - Mechanics
it surely is! On the other hand that may (or may not) reduce the working volume by reducing the x*y table because of the cutouts (motor, cogwheels, the belt itself). Someone with a reprap should give it a try! 'sidby sid - Mechanics
wohooo I'm in love: ceramic balls in ptfe cage *mjamm* Okay, I got me those (exactly): They're more than sufficient for a (in my case) RepStrap or RepRap. I'm unsure if I would use them in my skateboard, but I don't load my cartesian with 80kilos and ride it at 10miles an hour 'sidby sid - Reprappers
$4 each? I got a set of 16 from ebay for about $12 (10 Eur to be precise) 'sidby sid - Reprappers
oh okay.. I didn't ment to replace the nichrome wire though, but to cool the copper barrel that it won't hurt the ptfe insulator. (sorry for mot making that clear) 'sidby sid - Mechanics
is it possible to drill a hole in a peltier element ? Then one could mount an peltier with two nuts on one copper barrel. 'sidby sid - Mechanics
okay buying the pcbs from the rrf store costs what? ~$4/pcb ? And its tinned, lacquered and silkscreened As long as I can't do that at home for less, I don't think twice Don't get me wrong, it's good to know that I can mill prototypes of boards if I need to, but if there are readymade pcbs available with a really good quality, I'm not the one that would build the pcbs myself. Go and buy at theby sid - Plastic Extruder Working Group
solidworks does a fair job on stl, so no worries Even blender does (blender is way cheaper ) Meshlab seams to be nice for the job but didn't had enough time to test it completely yet (also free). keep in mind that you ned nonmanifold and watertight meshes to generate a printable stl. Sounds easier as it is actually, so keep cool, relax and edit the vertices Just because it looks good on a renby sid - RepRap Host
afaik it's first primert(with whatever) then coated(with liquid ptfe) and then burnt at about 420by sid - Mechanics
I talked to a plastic pro the other day, asking him if he could offer a 60x60 cm board of ptfe in about 2cm thick (blueeyed as i was) he told me the price and weight of that item (enormous!, both!) and so i asked if he had an 2mm sheet that i could glue onto mdf or something. He told me, that he personally had tested with sorts of glues and 1 and 2comp epoxys to glue ptfe onto something because oby sid - Mechanics
I like the idea of an image of what they consider subject of the page. BUT that specific picture is no aid but confusing. I think I I like the idea of an image OF the actual webpage, or an image that was postet ON the webpage (but that may be confusing either...) Well, but if Forrest tells me that cuil needs just some more time, then I will wait . maybe there's another favourite in sight. btw:by sid - General
except that it's somewhat harder to obtain a left-hand threaded screw... what about four drive screws? two left two right (threaded, not mounted )? that way there's no need of dumb gears and the filament wouldn't turn around. 'sidby sid - Controllers
5A? THAT is oversized On the other hand you could print filament at roomtemperature with that , not that it makes sense, but I bet you could (if your nozzle don't break of course ) 'sidby sid - Controllers
I don't think that one should care about the lower acceleration if the printingspeed is still under 20mm/s I don't think that the y-Axis with the extruderhead (that's all that moves) will actually be that much slower just because the "plastic parts" are made of steel. that's what? maybe 30-40% more weight? keeping in mind that it is not lifted but moved horizontally, I do think the original steppby sid - RepLab Working Group
Ah.. heissen dank, das ist es was ich wissen wollte. Ich hatte ja anderenorts mit elektromagneten gespielt (gedanklich zur Zeit, aktiv muss ich ja erstmal das Dingen fertig bekommen) aber ich stolperte immerby sid - Altes Forum
you could reverse the motor with a second pwm channel, but take care to not have both channels active simultaneously Maybe you can connect the motor to both dc-motor-driver ports too to gain more power. It may be worth a try. But, I'm with Ru personally, I'd choose a smaller motor 'sidby sid - Controllers
Ru, because neither the extruder not the x- and the y-axis are lifted by the motor in any way, it shouldn't be a problem if they are heavier (physically) Only thing that makes heavier parts difficult to move is higher friction, so by adding some nice bushbearings that's not a problem I'm unsure if making the parts from steel does make sense regarding the original size of darwin, but it may, ifby sid - RepLab Working Group
ferrofluid blood pumping... seems to be a nice hobby No, honestly; that's impressive! 'sidby sid - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Forrest Higgs Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The problem was that it ran in > something closer to geological time than real > time. LOOOOOL. white bearded people in front of oldschool toaster ovens that's a nice picture 'sidby sid - Mechanics
apropos, ich hab mich da mal angemeldet... Du hattest nby sid - Altes Forum
Yes, the software is the same, just enter the new values for the working volume. BUT: I think it's not just taking longer rods to resize the darwin, you should increase the diameters too, that will cause non fitting holes in the Cornerbrackets for example (and almost everywhere else) So think twice what you'll have to edit 'sidby sid - Reprappers
Hi Bruno, You can go the way most people are going these days and build a McWire Cartbot to repstrap all parts for the darwin. It's easiest to just buy everything from ian (bitsfrombytes) but maybe less fun So I'd prefere buy only the extruder (because it's really hard to make an extruder yourself) and then print the parts you need with your just homemade RepStrap 'sidby sid - Reprappers
.. wich then will cause that the airbubbles cannot be removed by applying a vacuum. 'sidby sid - Mechanics