in what context ? I know servo driven cnc machines, or mixed (servos on x and y and a stepper on Z for example) they have servo axis And some controllers use a 1byte mask (in the communication protocol) to identify the servo to be driven, but still, I don't see any context with reprap 'sidby sid - Mechanics
Only thing I can remember is an issue with java 3d and nvidia but that doesn't have anything to do with the live-cd at all. kubuntu will start with every graphics card, it just uses it's generic driver if it doesn't find a better matching (happend to me on a via epia mainboard with some build in graphic chip) So if the CD won't start, it's an other issue you might have. Is it burnt as bootabby sid - RepRap Host
Hi Kyle, mainly there are two different versions of the valve, slit and cross-slitted, I think cross-slitted may be more accurate (i would imagine so) The easiest source for these valves is to salvage them from an empty bottle of... Honey, bodymilk, ketchup and so forth. If you find a honeybottle standing cap down in the supermarket it's almost sure that you'll find such silicone valve in itby sid - Mechanics
If you find a very small condenser that can handle the pressure serious: I would say no without having tested 'sidby sid - General
10.000 US$ ? for the starterkit ? Well this is just a little over what is suitable for a 600US$ limit isn't it? makeit, I'd love to see the projectors you mentioned. I looked around and most consumergrade projectors do have some sort of lcd/tft solution, or just tubes like a crt. I don't find anything that has a dmd chip installed. even the highest priced model I could find right now (Epson EMby sid - General
talking about cerastil.. I took a look at the webpage and there's "cerastil AE" AND it's much cheaper (22 Eur/kg) 'sidby sid - Mechanics
Well All it needs is to Cool the hot side, to reduce the temperature. A fairly big aluminium heatsink and a fan should help, if you don't want to stack the elements. That way you' eliminate the chance of getting burned by touching the thing 'sidby sid - General
Well thinking of what Fernando achieved I think there's only the machine left 'sidby sid - General
Hi, let me push that one with a suggestion: I held my honeybottle in my hands today and wondered if those non-dripping siliconelips could be useful for this purpose. For those who wonder what I mean: I unfortunately don't have any extruder to give it a test, is anyone out there that could give it a try? 'sidby sid - Mechanics
Maybe peltier elements? (I do have two 12v coolers, both use peltier elements to cool down whatever is inside) But I do not know if that is sufficient for your needs 'sidby sid - General
Sorry, I forgot: Kyle Corbitt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't know whether those chips are more > expensive than a 22" monitor or not right now, but > I suspect that with all the projectors you see > everywhere these days, they're falling fast. Well a 22" Monitor starting at ~200 bucks (depending on resolution, speed and brightness) A "give iby sid - General
Depending on how sensible the photopolymer is, maybe a tft is bright enough, maybe it needs to be a crt. But removing a backlight from a tft and adding a bright light behind is not considered magic I just thought, It's way easier to reuse all the monitors electronics too. And yes like the lumenlab projectors do. Maybe simpler If a crt is bright enough to do the job, then we're half way throuby sid - General
Those chips look very interesting and the look very expensive! Now I'm wondering if it isn't much easier to just take some sort of readily available Monitor to make such perfactory. Or even a digital pictureframe. That way you can easily fit the size to your needs. Let's say I have some 7" digital pictureframe laying around, I build the Z Axis and the Bed to be filled with the polymer. I load tby sid - General
Uh yes bubbles.... "what's that bubbles??? I'm the f** prince of darkness and you come up with bubbles???" (end of quote) What was I supposed to say? Oh yes. I forgot those tiny little chimps that may ruin the melt. Okay, as far as I know, "they" cope with bubbles by compressing the molten plastic with counterrotating wormgears. And if we do already have to add a wormgear (if the vacuum wont doby sid - Mechanics
Keeping the waterlevel shouldn't be very tricky. Water keeps the level itself, all you need is calibrate the waterlevel let's say in a big bottle (big diameter) just a milimeter below the buildingplattform. If the plattform get one step down the water will "rise" (in fact it doesn't move at all) I know, water will reduce it's level somewhat because of the space it's given within the printedby sid - Mechanics
Cutting paper with the laserdiode... I've tried, and I've tried alot. I've even asked a friend to test the one or other diode (between 180 and 220 mW) none of those could cut paper, that ultrathin black garbagebags, yes; but not paper or thicker foil. Okay with enough patience it could burn thicker foils, but with a cuttingline that reminds of tearing something apart not of cutting it with a scaby sid - Mechanics
spraying water on is a very good idea.. less dust you breath gypsum powder and water (not sprayed on but as the adhesive component)????? A bit fuzzy quality will be the result, but hey god made sandpaper, doesn't he? 'sidby sid - Mechanics
Well.. as I said elsewhere, extracting a laserdiode from a dvd-writer is no fun at all. And the just extracted diode will not be sufficient in any way of fusing the powder. Why I am sure? Because I took apart now ten DVD Burners, for exactly that reason (in fact not exactly, but to burn holes in black things And it's not as easy as you may think) I think it needs something more powerful than oby sid - Mechanics
And just because you talk about it... extracting a laserdiode from a dvd writer is not what you can call "easy thing to do". First of all, there are two diodes And just must figure out wich one is the one with the power, then you have to extract it from it's original heatsing (And boy those are pretty tight, Cutting with a dremel => diode get's too hot => ruined pressing out => diode'sby sid - Mechanics
Hi, first of all, sorry for posting half an idea (half means, I do not even have a conceptional drawing yet, much less a proof of concept) Seeing the short Video (i can't find it at the moment) Viktor posted about a fast pick and place Robot, I thought about what's needed to get it done likewise.. I've rememberd an old doorbell I used to have laying around years ago, that electrical componentsby sid - Mechanics
Hi, just a suggestion: Could you please edit the breadcrumblink* to point "RepRap"to forums.reprap.org/index.php instead of reprap.org ? Mainpage is already linked within the logo itself, and that tiny "Goto: Forum List" is just to small to be good enough. thanks 'sid *the upper right corner: Forumsinformations where you're atby sid - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Now that's an idea.. bacon and eggs made by the RepRap's stepper drivers whilst printing the plate and cutlery. Full service here I come 'sidby sid - Controllers
LOL.. well yes, those tiny fans are expensive (in comparance to a big sized fan), the one I have laying around is just not enough to cool three stepper boards but after all they're cheaper than buying a new l298 I'll give it a testrun if I manage to hook it up to the cooler. Next step is to watercool the whole system I guess, according to pc-modding fanatics 'sidby sid - Controllers
hehe.. I just came to say that I was wrong too... The heatsink I've mentioned above fits the Multiwatt chip, but it does NOT fit on the pcb unfortunately. Now I've ordered some other that hopefully fits, but has a thermal resistance of 11K/W if it doesn't, I'll have to take some closer looks at different electronic stores. And I've stumbled over some tiny little fan (25x25 mm) maybe it fits soby sid - Controllers
datamatrix laserscanner... sounds familiar. check ANOTO and it's friends (i.e. flypen, logitech ioby sid - Controllers
Now that's possible I guess.. best heatsink I've found (that seems to be mountable of course) has an 8.4K/W Thanks alot now I know what I'll have to look for at the electronics store You've been an enormous help 'sidby sid - Controllers
Wow.. thank you nophead, although I do try to follow all you're saying, I must admit I'm unable. You know I don't do this for a living, so I'm not that well informed. Maybe it's a lack of english that I cannot understand every word you say (or is written in the datasheets) In the datasheet there's a junction-ambient thermal resitance of 35by sid - Controllers
Sure, but you have to come close to the endstop to know about. with a mouse-encoder you know in realtime that there's something wrong and you could eventually adjust the position immediately to not ruin the reprapped part without having an additional unneeded movement. 'sidby sid - Controllers