disconnect the endstops for a quick test (one hand on the power OFF button of the PSU!) Do they move now? 'sidby sid - Controllers
Forrest, do not forget to tell, that your tommelise is certainly not a mcwire setup But since McWire intentionally WAS a milling machine, I guess that doesn't matter much 'sidby sid - RepRap Host
you're welcome. Well I guess jonwise meant to place it in the named folder. That folder does not exist in the compiled version; only packed directly to reprap.jar So either you can try creating such folder that'd be "\reprap\gui\botConsole\rr-logo-url.png" inside the org folder you already have next to the reprap.jar or you can try place that file directly inside the reprap.jar that'd be "repraby sid - RepRap Host
here you are. But that file is only necessary for the sourcecode afaik, it's not packed with any precompiled host yet. (not even packed in the jar at reprap.jar\org\reprap\gui\botConsole) 'sidby sid - RepRap Host
there were several attemps using pinch rollers, I'm not aware that one worked properly. the very first extruder for example used rollers So you may want to check the approaches already made first. There are several blog and forum entries you may want to take a look at. 'sidby sid - General
Well I'm not Zach, who is the only one who knows for sure ... But I'm pretty sure the complete kit will be back in stock. maybe it's just because there is no arduino diecimila anymore, because the duemilanove was just released. Maybe somethings changed and one of the boards need revision. Or maybe he just ran out of parts; as I said, only Zach knows for sure. Afaik you can preorder out of stockby sid - Controllers
I've read this issue before afair... there's something wrong with the limit switches.. either they are always on or always off (can't remember really) IIRC it was LEAV having this problem, maybe you'll find his issue using the search. sorry for not being able to tell exactly 'sid found it: just read on, maybe it's the same error you haveby sid - RepRap Host
be welcome, take a seat, make yourself at home and have an eye on or wonderful library while you wait 'sidby sid - General
The less important yet fascinating status update ... Got the caps today and yeah it woooorks (at least the psu that is) the damn controlpanel is NOT. Maybe due to my homemade cable, maybe due to age.. I'll know within the next 24h wish me luck everything else would have been too easy I guess... 'sid well connecting just 25 of 50 pins isn't enough for having a fully working controlpanelby sid - Controllers
Some sort of safety clutch? like those: But what I'm wondering is, it looks quite similar to the one that has been tested a while ago. There was a problem with heat conduction up the screw clogging the entrance and stopping the flow. the link with the result So I think we need the screw to be made of ...hmmm duroplast? I have no idea! 'sidby sid - Mechanics
If you tried something close and it's working... nevermind what I said earlier 'sidby sid - Controllers
QuoteThe voltage rating is the maximum voltage you can use with a chopper drive. It is simply determined by the winding insulation. You don't need to run them at that voltage unless you want to go extreamly fast. true nophead, but from what I know from ordinary higher voltage DC motors (let's say a 150V DC Fan) they won't even start moving with around 9V and anything near 12V makes them turn veryby sid - Controllers
I think that's a good idea for fusing two large printed plastic parts into one huge one that we couldn't print in one piece. But this is not really a rapid process from what I've seen with commercial friction welders (that are working a little different though) I'd guess it'll take more than a while to actually print one of our cornerblocks for example using this method. But just tell us Lawrenby sid - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I may be wrong, but 170V DC ? Sorry, I don't think they will be very happy with just the 12V we can deliver with our stepper driver. Also they're rated with 2.2 Ampere when in serial mode, the driverchip is stable up to 2 Amps and even then it needs serious cooling! I'd take a step back and look elsewhere personally. 'sidby sid - Controllers
well the host should recognize the sanguino. Just make sure you have the proper File->Preferences Port(name) set to use your usb/ttl connection 'sidby sid - RepRap Host
Hi Viktor, but we already have a toolchanger mechanism, don't we? (at least I do have on my old bfb moulded parts) True I don't have the toolhead bay for new heads; but I have the "slide in" clamp and a connector on the toolhead, similar to the one Adrian posted in his mendel preview Jul 16th 07. So, why start from scratch again... ? And you're right, a ZIF Dip Socket won't stand the amps, buby sid - Controllers
Generally there's no need for eclipse for just printing with the host. Ecplipse is a java editor to write your own java programs... No need for something like that if you don't intend to write or modify on your own. that being said, as far as I know (because I don't have a sanguino) It's as easy to use as the arduino, just connect the usb plug to your pc; (first time only open the arduino softwby sid - RepRap Host
What about those zero force connectors (what's they called in english? we call them Nullkraft) we just have to think of a way to move the lever.. the lever can be cached and moved be the toolhead, in that case the connector (head side) should be springloaded, so that it's connected before the lever is catched, and is still connected if the lever is released again. But what's wrong with the currby sid - Controllers
I doubt there's a NEMA17 that has nearly enough torque to move the darwin z-axis upwards without any help. Although I may be wrong with that, I'm unsure if that motor (high torque nema17) is much cheaper than the corresponding nema23. And further more I'm pretty sure it can not be salvaged from any printer Pay a penny more and salvage motors from old non working plotters not printers, than youby sid - Controllers
And how is this related to reprap? 'sidby sid - Controllers
wait what? You should have an option for "run Live DVD Mode" or ""test kubuntu" or something similar (cannot remember what it's called atm) that option will just run kubuntu without installing anything. That's what you are looking for. And no, you can of course install the reprap host to your current linux installation too. Just follow the hints If it's a host test you're after; you can run tby sid - RepRap Host
Does it need to be chrome plated; or do you want to have a chrome look (like chromed carparts p.e.) first case: afaik there is no way to actually chromeplate plastic at home. afaik no way at all. inbetween: What you can do is ask a carpaint service nearby. ask for metallisation, there are different ways and colours available. None of which is chrome actually, but that's exactly how "chromed" carby sid - Reprappers
Nope the pwm is connected to the arduino/sanguino but not to any other board this wiring diagram might help: (just replace the arduino with the sanguino; make sure to use the correct pinout since that might be different (I'm pretty sure it IS)) 'sidby sid - Controllers
Well ... ummm... Okay let's start from the beginning. I guess you burnt the dvd image file as DVD not as CD, right? (some older dvd image might fit on a cd if you have an oversized blank) Assuming that, you also marked "make dvd bootable" in your burning software didn't you? (a different entry in nero for example, in some other burning soft it might be just a checkbox) Assuming you did all thatby sid - RepRap Host
IGES should be the commonly convertable format for our needs, isn't it? Nice idea... BUT it may be okay to print a screw or hexnut or something, but what about knobs and so on, since at least some products may not be allowed to replicate. 'sidby sid - General
thanks alot Nick. and nope, broadband; everything else just doesn't make sense Now I can at least make the controlboard cable until I can solder the new caps, not much to do this weekend unfortunately, neither plotter nor reprap parts not even any watchparts I would need to carry on... well at least I have some 50ribbon cable and connectors let me know if you need any help with the plot488 inby sid - Controllers
Oh one thing Nick.... could you do me a favour perhaps?! Since I'm missing the controlpanel cable in my plotter. would you mind making a picture of yours connected ? (two screws on the back, and two from above you just released (captive, do not remove)) See in the linked service manual Feb 81 yes I downloaded all of those to find what I was looking for. but I can't find the cable informationby sid - Controllers
QuoteThat is why I am starting over from scratch, making a whole new machine. New mechanics, new electronics, new firmware, and new software. There is just way to much thinking things are "good enough". They are not even close to "good enough". Still... I wouldn't mind at all if you all would work on improving the extrusion and let me worry about improving machine accuracy. Well.. what "we"by sid - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Hi Viktor 1) So I'm fine, you think? I can't measure the current of the multimeter, I only have that one left, the other one broke... and you see the dilemma in here 2) I know about the network, but I did't know if I'm right with calculating for parallel resistors assuming the cathode/gate of the 2n6505 to be around 100 Ohm and the resistor to be around 51.4 Ohms the equation above would resuby sid - Controllers