I have a CP2102 converter working with my Gen7 and freeduino, with auto reset. The reason auto reset does not work for you is that it requires a low value capacitor (<1uf) between the DTR pin and the reset pin on the Gen7, so that it pulls down the value properly. Here is the section of the wiki with the converter to Gen7 pinout. And if you choose to add the capacitor to the DTR "pin" thenby Legot - Controllers
terramir Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > hey does this work with a 20mhz crystal or just a > 16? I'm curious > terramir It works with 20mhz, but because the math for 16mhz is hard coded into the Marlin firmware, Everything runs at about 25% faster than it should. I.E. If you set something to take 1 second, it will take about .75 secondsby Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I actually meant the smaller version sold at digikey But you are correct, the linear Vreg is quite manageable. What did you mean by the 78xx types requiring a backlash diode?by Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I may be able to put some input in here. I am running a 7805 on my Gen 7 1.3.1 and have it supplying power to the 5v rail through where the disk headers are supposed to be. It works quite well, Atmega powers up properly and there's no problem with voltage drop through the longer traces. I don't have one, but I would suggest rather than using an LM7805 or the like, substitute it for an Oki 78srby Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Haha, sorry It works now.by Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Sorry for bing such a noob, but does can anyone explain why I am getting these errors when I go to compile scuba's Marlin.pde? In file included from cardreader.cpp:1: /Marlin.h:47:21: error: WString.h: No such file or directory In file included from /Marlin.h:38, from cardreader.cpp:1: MarlinSerial.h:115: error: expected ',' or '...' before '&' token MarlinSerial.h:115: erroby Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
The Setup test sketch works!!!! Thanks for this Tramflug! Now I just have to wait for my pololus to come in and I can get to testing my axis! Thank you again!by Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
This is the image I have been using as a reference for the ISP header When looking at the board from the front (pololu headers in the back), The Reset pin is the one in the row further back, next to the reset button. And if you built the Parallel programmer with the +5v line for Vcc, you don't have to use your USB to TTL to power it. Power is provided from the programmer.by Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For those experimenting with an ATmega1284P on a > Gen7 (or any other RepRap electronics), I've > compiled a new Arduino IDE support package, > including new bootloaders. Still untested, still > arduino-0023. Fuses and stuff is apparently > exactly the same as with the 644 types. > > Please testby Legot - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
So I found that the reason for my problem with the Arduino as ISP was that any ArduinoISP sketch that is uploaded from the arduino 1.0 software doesn't work because of some sort of library mixup thing. The solution was to upload the ArduinoISP sketch from an older version of the IDE, I used Arduino 0022 and it worked!by Legot - Controllers
So I tried the Aka 47 version through both the arduino IDE and avrdude, but Each time, I keep getting the error I'm also using the latest version of the arduinoISP sketch now, that's why it changed from the protocol error. avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 still...and I's been two days! lol, just getting annoyed. Does anyone have any solution's for this? I couldn't dig up a reasby Legot - Controllers
Hi, I've built a Gen 7 board, and I've been trying all day to get a bootloader to work. The Original Gen 7 bootloader requires a 644 or 644p because of the different device signature. I also tried the mighty1284p bootloaders, but I keep getting this error: avrdude: stk500_paged_write(): (a) protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x64 avrdude: stk500_cmd(): programmer is out of sync and note that I aby Legot - Controllers
garyhodgson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In case people are interested I added an entry for > this post to the "Bed Adhesion and Anti-Warping" > theme in the development tracker i'm trying to get > up and running. That's a cool tool! very useful, Thanks. I did manage to attach it to the glass plate with some kapton as an insulator, with Aluminumby Legot - General
Hi, I'm in the midst of building my repstrap, and I would like to report on a successfully working heated bed. It isn't a total success yet, as I don't have my electronics ready, but I can say that it heats up. It's pcb fr4 material, with one side totally copper. It's quite similar to Prusajr's bed, however it is made for better home fabbing (diy etching, milling, etc.) It is made up of as manby Legot - General
Ok, thank you Vive la réplication, Legotby Legot - General
Well I'm going to be using Teacup firmware, but I didn't see a specified thermistor anywhere. Thanks again.by Legot - General
Ok, so that is my problem, I am running from a 12v supply, not ramps or anything (I am still in the build stage of my Gen 7) Thank you! Looking back, I see how not regulating the temprature is unwise, live and learn. And what thermistor would you suggest? 100k with what beta? Thanks again, Legotby Legot - General
Hi, I'm building my first reprap/repstrap and I'm wondering how much nichrome to use for the hotend. I bought some 30ga and I have read that 6 ohms is proper, but when I test that with my 12v supply, it gets too hot and melts the kapton. (koptan, lol) At that point, it is getting red hot, so I'm wondering if the supply on the electronics board will limit current, to keep the heat down. I didby Legot - General
Monokote is good stuff (I'm from the rc plane world ) Which kind are you using? Aure you using the sticky trim sheets, or the iron on ones. I say this because as time goes on, the adhesive on the iron on will either stick permanently (it must be scraped off, leaving residue, not a big deal) or it will start to crumble, sticking to the printed part and breaking away from the heated bed. That'sby Legot - General
Cool, thank you very much! If you want something to start with, Here is my mouser parts list with no extras. I'm sure I didn't pick the optimal components, but it's a start. And mouser doesn't carry the A4983 or A4988by Legot - Controllers
Hi, I'm pricing the stepstick right now, and I'm wondering what trimpot I need to use. I believe it is 3mm, but I don't know the proper resistance. Thanks!by Legot - Controllers
Hi, so me and a friend are building our first reprap (the 1x2), and I know that we can do all the mechanics brilliantly. However, I am wondering if anyone has used servos. I am just more comfortable with servos as compared to steppers. My question is, how can the software be changed to use servos? I can't see any reason why servos would be any worse than steppers except for the software issue. Wby Legot - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors