Hi everyone, Back in 2013 I was fortunate enough to back Justin Hawkins sLamps (now known as OpenSL) project on indiegogo which was for a Stereolithographic printer. I backed the project by pledging for a complete printer setup including 3d printed parts, 1ltr of Resin (0.5ltr red and 0.5ltr blue) though minus a laser cut case. I got this kit shipped into the UK and spent just over $1000 on theby indieflow - For Sale
Dam missed this post! My bad for not following!by indieflow - Southampton RepRap User Group
Any particular reason for choosing the i2? If you've not seen the i3 is a very nice machine Not sure when the next meet up is planned though in the mean time you need any help with parts or advice drop me a line and welcome to the communityby indieflow - Portsmouth / Havant RUG
PomeroyB Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > To help convince anyone that prints are, in fact, > pitted, I've got some nice pictures of some stuff > from under a microscope. > > This first picture is ABS, and is the top infill > from a Stratasys print. The infill wasn't perfect, > so those huge gouges you see are the > second-from-the-top layeby indieflow - General
Interested! Only just seen this thread, still up for it some time? I currently have the following printers: Prusa i2 Prusa i3 Huxley v1by indieflow - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
Welcome Colin Good luck with your build, any questions or problems ask away as I'm only in Soton!by indieflow - Portsmouth / Havant RUG
Github Use the .dxf file for the Aluminium frame!by indieflow - General Mendel Topics
Right problem found and now all fixed After you suggested measuring the signal voltage of the MOSFETs on R11/R12 I found the problem! The signal was coming from the ATmega to kill the heat though the MOSFET wasn't cutting off! Believing the problem was the MOSFET, I started to change it out for a new one. When I de-soldered the legs, I found one of the legs had broken off near the board! I noby indieflow - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
The temperature graph is produced via the Repetier Host software that I'm using, really nice software with great visualisation features! Also I am currently using the Repetier Firmware, which has not been altered at all since well before the problem started! I don't think the problem lies with the software/firmware! The heatbed only seems to work for the initial cycle (even then, over a massiveby indieflow - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Thanks for the fast reply and the links, unfortunately I don't think the modifications have helped! I believe I have followed the instructions towards the modification correctly by braking the tracks, as such isolating the high powered section and re-linking in the ATmega as shown in the attached photos. As can be seen in the temperature graph, the light blue line shows the normal fluctuationsby indieflow - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hi, I've been using my Gen 7 1.3.1 electronics seamlessly for ages now (brilliant electronics) though the other night I noticed my PCB Heatbed was registering at >140C! I immediately shut down the printer, restarted and monitored my heatbed temperatures. I found that the preset temperature was correctly set at 115C which the system powered up to, then killed power until the temperature droppeby indieflow - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Wow just noticed this! I will be all over testing this once my printer finishes it's current printby indieflow - Repetier
Loving the look of this new Huxley, plus those electronics look amazing! In the future will you be selling the electronics for those that build the machines themselves?by indieflow - For Sale
With being a noob, only recently completing my Prusa build and using Mac OS I was struggling to get up and running till I came across this software (everything in a oner!). Absolutely loving the Host software and Firmware, so easy to use. Keep up the good work!by indieflow - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Well slic3r definetly sounds the way ahead! Though I think I would still like the option to use both, so thanks for the link Lanthan! I'll check it out, though standby for more posts! lolby indieflow - General
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Use slic3r instead. It's easier to install and use > and it's faster. Thanks, not the first to mention this, so I guess I should take the hint lolby indieflow - General
Hi, I'm just nearing the completion of my Prusa build and just starting the setting up of my MacBook Pro for control. Anyway I'm stumped at stage one! Whilst following the installation instructions here it suggests installing Psycho after Python! When I attempt to install Psycho through Terminal, it exists after being unable to locate GCC 4.2. Now I've searched the internet with only a few refby indieflow - General
Right, I think I get it now! Though have to say Nudel, that code you wrote is well above my level at the moment! lol Thanks for it though! Is there any documentation I can read to learn how you worked that out?by indieflow - General
Andrew Smith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It compiles, but CGAL complains about an illegal > polygonal object. There seem to be a lot of extra > triangles on the front and back faces, try getting > rid of those. > > EDIT] > > Yup, that seems to work. > Wow, thanks Andrew So just to confirm, as I'm crap at figuring out how to fillby indieflow - General
davidgoodenough Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you go to the openscad.org web site, there is a > mailing list which is where most of the discussion > happens. > > David Ah right, thanks Davidby indieflow - General
I've been trying to make a polyhedron, though can anyone explain why I can compile (F5) the code below (looks all good, no pink triangles!), though when I try and render (F6), I get the warning: No top level geometry to render? Have I missed something? polyhedron (points=[ [-7.5,0,-3],[-5,0,-3],[5,0,-3],[7.5,0,-3],[0,0,7],[1,0,10],[-1,0,10], [-7.5,2,-3],[-5,2,-3],[5,2,-3],[7.5,2,-3],[0,2,7],[1by indieflow - General
Hi guys, I'm pretty new to the world of RepRap and literally just venturing into 3D designs. I'm currently playing around with OpenSCAD, which seems pretty easy for simple designs (with use of the online instructions), though when venturing into the more complex side of things, safe to say I get a bit lost! After browsing the internet extensively I've not managed to find any good forums to poby indieflow - General
QuoteTraumflug Pinout is right, with pin 1 being the one closest to the interrupter. These comments however ... an opto endstop isn't a switch. 5V and GND are static, while pin 1 flips between 4V and 0.2V, depending on wether the the interrupter is interrupted or not. 5V doesn't change and you also can't swap pin2 and pin3, like you could with a mechanical switch. So basically a mechanical switcby indieflow - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Just starting up with RepRap, currently building a Prusa Mendel and I live in Southampton, Hampshire!by indieflow - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
Just finished building my board, all tests out fine! Just a little lost with the Bootloader! Any tips on using a Mac OS and a USBtiny to program the ATmega? Anyone used the Arduino directly to upload the Bootloader? Cheersby indieflow - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Must admit I never considered the insulation going brittle, which obviously isn't very good for a wire which needs to move! So does this sleeving look ok? max operating temp 250 degrees! Also does this wire fit the bill? 6A max temp 190! (though highest I can find for this diameter!).by indieflow - General
Ah right I see now! So basically the resistor will be running at around 25.7W (V2/R = P, 12x12/5.6)! 5x times over capacity to heat the Hot End. Now just to confirm would this wire be ok temperature wise? It has a PVC insulation (rated to around 95 degrees) though will be around 50mm away from the resistor (resistor leads) plus covered in heat shrink tubing!by indieflow - General
Hi, I'm just half way through my first Prusa Mendel build and a bit confused about the whole Hot End wiring thing and just wondered if anyone could set me straight! I've browsed around and not been able to find much information on the subject! Right to start with I've purchased the Mk 2 J Head Nozzle from . Now this uses a 5.6ohm, 5W resistor, which should draw just short of 1A. Though am I riby indieflow - General
Hi, In the same boat myself! Just starting out with RepRap (half way through with my build) and will be mainly using Mac's to control. So far I'm planning on using the following: 3D design - Google Sketchup (requires su2stl.rb plugin to export to .stl) or OpenSCAD (both free and compatible with Mac). Gcode - Repsnapper or ReplicatorG Unfortunately I can't give you much more advice than that atby indieflow - General