You have to fix your firmware. Make sure the thermistor table you used matches the type of thermistor you added to your hot end: there are various versions and using the wrong table results in the wrong temperature (I am assuming here that Marlin uses tables like Teacup). As a verification method you could use an optical thermometer to check the temperature. Be careful though: I ruined my hot eby Cyberwizzard - General Mendel Topics
Cheers! And the parts you left out were for my benefit only: the first few attempts caused skips and ran the axis into their ends so I needed a method to make sure the printer stopped at that point and the G-codes were picked randomly.by Cyberwizzard - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I just received some 10mm trapezium spindles and 2 nuts for the spindles. The thing is... they are round! I saw that this is not uncommon but it does beg the question: how are these ordinarily used? I wanted to use them on the Z axis but as I want them to fall out if the head crashes into the bed, I do not want to clamp them. So I can come up with grinding flats onto them or use an angular grindby Cyberwizzard - General Mendel Topics
Phizinza Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So I managed to get Cyberwizzard's Teacup uploaded > using WinAVR installed with the Programmer's > Notepad and using the default WinAVR make and > program tools in Programmer's Notepad. I had to > change the /etc/ttyUSB0 part in the Makefile to > COM4 but other than that it worked. Glad that it worked:by Cyberwizzard - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the bug report :-} I've copied it to a > Github issue: > > 40 > > Looks like ATOMIC_BLOCK() isn't compatible with > Arduino IDE. Certainly solvable, but right now I > have no quick fix. I concluded the same thing in the bug report as I missed this thread :-) The quickest way I can thiby Cyberwizzard - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I found out that the issue lies in the use of a non-standard makefile: if I run ln -s Makefile-AVR Makefile I can run make without a '-f', '--file=' or '--makefile=' argument at which point I can compile Teacup again... This is odd and smells like a Make bug - am I the only one with this issue? My make version is: Make 3.81by Cyberwizzard - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I've been playing with the current version of the Gen7 branch of Teacup and it seems like the new Makefile are not working on Ubuntu 12.04 properly: when having build targets in the BUILDDIR (e.g. build/teacup.elf or build/clock.o) make complains that the needed rule is missing. For example: make -f Makefile-AVR all rm -f build/depend mkdir -p build avr-gcc -DF_CPU=16000000L -mmcu=atmega644p -g -by Cyberwizzard - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
For anyone who finds this page and has this issue: its a bug in the Comb plugin from Skeinforge, see for example: Key part of this topic: QuoteGot it, if you edit the file "skeinforge_application/skeinforge_plugins/craft_plugins/comb.py" On line 149 it says "end = self.boundary.segment[1]", as far as I can see this should be "end = self.segment[1]" This code normally never seems to trigger, onlby Cyberwizzard - Skeinforge
I realize I am a bit late to the party but I only recently received my Pi... First off: I think using linux for real-time tasks is a poor mans solution if we have ATmegas that do a bang up job controlling everything. I've been playing around with the current debian kernel and I managed to hang things like the USB controller and HDMI output way to easily: the CPU is not up for this multimedia vioby Cyberwizzard - Developers
I had a similar issue with my heaters and the Arduino resetting. After rerouting the ground wires to make sure the Arduino is on a separate branch, my problems went away. Still, I'll be making a new driver board for my heated bed soon which will be on a separate ground wire (and +12v) all together from the Gen7 board itself.by Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >> Q2: When using a 10 ohm resistor between the >> Arduino and the MOSFET, aren't you pulling 500 mA >> from the output pin? > > If the ATmega can deliver that, yes. RAMPS > electronics also uses an 10 ohms resistor and > Sanguinololu even no resistor at all. Obviously, > ATmegas survive thaby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I totally missed this topic while I was building my own bed driver. :-) Q: Why use the IRFZ44N MOSFET? There are MOSFETs with a lower RDSon than 17.5 mOhm. At 10 amps, you need to dissipate 1.75 watts, which is still a lot without active cooling. (My current circuit has a 3 mOhm MOSFET which heats up to 120 degrees Celcius until it reaches the target temperature and then cools down to 40 degreesby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Isn't it sufficient to add another parameter to the heater settings to mark which output should be inverted? In heater.c, the uint8_t that controls the PWM can simply be modified with (255 - pwm_value) for all inverted outputs. I tried this for all heaters (after disconnecting the extruder) and it looked like the bed was being properly controlled. Of course, if I'd do it only for my setup, I canby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I finally got to building my driver board. But I can't find the feature I was looking for: I need to invert the PWM signal as my NPN-MOSFET circuit inverts the signal from the Arduino. I found the switch to go to lower PWM speeds, but at the moment my main issue is that the bed turns off when it should turn on and vice versa. Is it possible to add something like that? Or should I hack it into tby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 62 kHz on a 16 MHz electronics, 78 MHz on a 20 MHz > electronics, both with FAST_PWM. Without FAST_PWM, > that's 61/76 Hz, which is the slowest an ATmega I assume thats 62/78 kHz and not MHz :-) Cheers for clarifying and I'm glad I asked since I was aiming for 25kHz...by Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'm adding a MOSFET driver to see if I can keep the MOSFET cool when its being driven with 12V instead of 5. Now I have 2 questions: - Without looking at the code, I assume inverting the PWM is a simple flag somewhere, right? - How fast does Teacup drive the PWM? Because the MOSFET stays the coolest when its either on or off, I need to have a small RC time, but depending on the required speed Iby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'm not near my printer atm but it cost me 4 euros and can switch 50 amps. Perhaps the problem is indeed a lack of voltage (from the atmega)... I'll measure it later on.by Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Cheers for the info. The only thing I am missing is that these tests are run with PWM. In my case, the MOSFET is overheating with no PWM at all. If I understand your tests, you are trying to determine how the temperature increase due to PWM is minimized. (correct me if I'm wrong) Alternative solution: The internal resistance of the MOSFET coupled with the current causes the heat. I want to tryby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I've added a 2nd molex connector for the heater + alternate ground on the back of the PCB. Even though I currently have it all connected to the same loom, it seems that the initial separation of the ground did the trick: the Atmega no longers seems to reset while the bed is on. On a similar note: how hot is the MOSFET switching the bed supposed to become? I currently have it on bang-bang controby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > will the ground rewiring also work if I do not > have an ATX cable plugged in? > > Uhm, no. But you can try to lay wire 4 from the > ATmega to the molex 4-pin. Not sure wether this > helps, though, as there is only one path back to > the PSU. I've put in a note into the wiki > article. I'll test iby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Before I start cutting: will the ground rewiring also work if I do not have an ATX cable plugged in?by Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Cheers for the link to this topic (backlink: ). I've tried option 3 independently (since I figured out I needed a 5V line, so my 12V power supply alone wasn't enough) with a 2200uF cap to stabilize the power line - it did not help. I'll gladly try your new solution as I already need to solder in a new MOSFET; this time with a heat sink attached...by Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Update: I soldered a LM7805 to the +12V power supply to power the rest of the printer. I even added a capacitor to stabilize the +5V line. Once again, reaching the target temperature results in PWM-ing and crashing the Arduino... So.... can I use PID with PWM for the print head and bang-bang on the bed? If so, how?by Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
A feature added to version 1.3 of the electronics while my board is version 1.2 I only have one molex connector and it is powered. Well, the +12V and the ground, the +5V line is empty. Edit: looking at the schematics it seems like the power supply to the Arduino, I2C connector and SPI connector are on an internal +5V volt rail, which can be powered from the serial port, ATX cable or the molexby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Update: I finally received my new 350 Watt 12 volt power supply. I tried removing the ATX power supply and replace it by the new one with a molex connector screwed in. Now I run into a problem: nothing moves. I do not have a +5V power supply so I used the jumper to get +5V from the serial interface. At this point, one LED lights up and I can talk to the Arduino. However, issuing commands does nby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I've just tried with a number of power resistors to see if can get it to work. I tried with anything from 12.5W (2.5 amps) up to 62.5W (12.5 amps). The only thing I get is a second heater next to my printer and as soon as it starts toggling the power, the both PSUs stop again. I can only conclude that an ATX power supply is unsuitable for use with a ~100W heated bed which will be PWM-ed to theby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Cheers for the suggestion: I'll try that solution next. In the past few days I've been trying things like: adding more resistance (works on power-on, but the resistors are 5W so they are smoking within a minute, not sure if it would help while PWM kicks in) powering the bed using the +5V, this will pull 3.5 amps resulting in a 17 Watt heater. The bed tops out at 50 degrees, making it usable witby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
You mean from the PSU? None I'd say: the jumpers allow the Arduino to be powered from the +5V from the USB port and the +5V is not used anywhere else: the rest of the logic is using +12V afaik. I tried with a Schottky diode over the second +12V rail which made no difference. I also tried the more powerful PSU from my normal computer, which did not work. The latter has 28 ampere +12V rails, stabby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I double checked the schematics and concluded that it would be safe to use the +12V from one rail with the ground from another. This sort of works now. Sort of. The problem is that when the heated bed is turned on, the whole system restarts. So the PSU turns off and the Arduino sends its 'start ok' message again. Now I know I am still missing the 1N4004 diode to dissipate the back-EMF when thby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I am trying to add a heated bed to my printer. Testing on the second +12V rail showed that it worked so I hooked it up to the Gen7 board. Then things went down hill a bit... When I enable the bed itself, it powers on, pulls 8 to 10 amps and heats up quickly. But if I enable the stepper motors, the PSU craps out on me and the printer sits there, probably without its required 12 volts to run everyby Cyberwizzard - Next Wave Electronics Working Group