yes, something like that ... thanks, mihai kgrjxy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > something like that? > > hull() { > translate([10,10,5]) cylinder(h= 0.01, r=10); > cylinder(h= 0.01, r=20); > } >by moltean - General
how can I create a cylinder which has different XY centers at extremities ? the basic instruction will create a cylinder which has the same XY center for both extremities. but how, for instance can I create a cylinder which has the center from base at [0,0] and the center from top at [10, 10] ? actually I want to create a cone which has this property .... how this shape can be created in OpenSby moltean - General
from the zdnet article: "The primary advantage is to reduce the overall bill of materials — and Harley is aiming for under $100 by the time the design is fully refined" ... as I said before, the printer is not built by me ... I was not able to build a robust printer for less than 300 euros. regards, mihai rsilvers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is notby moltean - General
i dont know ... it is not built by me ... I only read the zdnet article and posted it here ... mihai woo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > well, 100 usd....how? but concept of printer is > beautiful must have one of theseby moltean - General
it was posted several weeks ago within the Polar bots section ... but today I have read a zdnet article about it: and a youtube movie here: regards, mihaiby moltean - General
I'm testing a board from a PC program created by me. The problem is that I don't know how many lines of G code can be sent to the board ... should I wait for a few milliseconds before sending a new G code command ? or is there a command that tells me that the board has executed all the commands in its cache ? thanks, mihaiby moltean - General
James, I use Marlin with the settings listed below. Is there some parameter set in the wrong way ? My current problem is that not enough plastic is extruded at high speeds (> 200 mm/s) however, if I increase the temperature, things are getting better. my PLA can be extruded at 180-190 (I can print with no problems at lower speeds), If I increase the temperature to 240 the extrusion problemby moltean - General
my current temperature is 190. I have tried in the past to print at 180 ... but the extruder jams at low speed (such as 25 mm/s). There is no jam at higher speeds (> 50 mm/s). my plastic seems to be ready for print at 160-170 ... but I have never tried such low temperatures. I will do this later today. thanks, mihai thejollygrimreaper Wrote: -----------------------------------------------by moltean - General
james. I use the followings: - 1.75 mm PLA (from various providers) - 0.35 nozzle dimater. - layer height = 0.25 mm - hotend v9 from mendel parts (has a PEEK block as thermal barier). - temperature 190. why do you say that I'm reaching the limits of printers ? is 150 mm/s such a huge speed ? i have also printed at higher speeds with it (such as 300-400 mm/s). see a movie here (printed at 300by moltean - General
hi, I have a problem when printing at higher speeds (like at 150 mm/s or more): the extruder does not extrudes enough plastic when it accelerate and a gap appears in the object being printed. see the attached image. it is simple cylinder being printed. the printer slows down when it has to change the layer ... and some blobs appear there ... and then it starts to accelerate ... and not enoughby moltean - General
very good idea ! thanks, mihai rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > And why do you need to do this by hand. > Why can't you use the Pronterface Z jog buttons?by moltean - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'm constantly modifying the extruder and the hotend ... and the distance to the bead is different each time ... this is why I prefer to manually rotate the motors in order to achive the desired distance ... regards, mihai rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If your Z end stop is set correctly you don't need > this. > Never the less, it should beby moltean - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Traumflug thanks for fast reply. here is what I want: I want to disable the Z motor when is not used, so that I can manually move the Z axis, so that the printing head is at 0.1 mm above the bed. I was previously working with Gen6, and there, when I start printing, I manually rotate the Z motor a little bit so that I get an optimal distance of the hotend to the print bed. Is there some wayby moltean - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hi there, I have uploaded Marlin (latest release) to our Gen 7 board. when I set the DISABLE_Z to true, the motors (all of them) are not moving anymore. I also have a Gen6 board, which works ok when DISABLE_Z is set to true. is this a software or a hardware problem ? thanks, mihaiby moltean - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
hi there, we have built a gen7 1.5 (atmega 1284P @20 Mhz) for testing purposes. the board seems to work ok (we have made few prints with it), but we have some problems: 1. we have to press the manual reset button each time when we try to load the marlin firmware. We connect to gen7 with a usb cable. As far as I have understood the reset is required only for usb-ttl cables. But why we need to pby moltean - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I dont have a good enough camera to show you details ... but what I was trying to print was a tower with a circular hole inside. The base of the tower is 10x10 mm, but the walls are narrow - 1-2 mm. -with mendel-parts PLA I have no problems. -with other PLA ( I dont have intention to make harm to him, so I will not tell the name), the walls are collapsing inside ... this is why I suspected thatby moltean - General
Camiel wrote me that order 1296 has been shipped to me. UPS confirmed that it is in transit. so, he is alive and shipping ... this time I have ordered only some upgrade kits and backup parts ... I already have an orca 0.3 which is a fantastic machine! this is my 3rd order from mendel-parts in the past 6 months ... so far everything was good (of course there was some delay in all cases ...) Iby moltean - General
hi, are you aware of some lego technic parts in STL format that I can print on my 3d printer ? or another format that I can easily (free software) transform in stl to be sliced by slic3r ... thanks, mihaiby moltean - General
sorry again for posting here technical questions, but I cannot post on mendel-parts since nobody's moderating my message ... I have finally manage to print ... but I have a problem. I can print only at 255 degrees ... if I set the temperature less, the extruder will start jamming after few minutes. I dont know why is that since the recommended temperature for PLA is much lower. I have tried sevby moltean - General
by the way, what is the purpose of PIDTEMP ? why it is disabled ? why it should be enabled ? happy new year! mihai JamesHardiman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @cdnrap: I had similar problems ... Totally fixed > by turning on PID control in configuration.h > > You just have to un-comment one line, about 2/3 of > the way down the file.by moltean - General
I did that ... but the problem is still there ... mihai JamesHardiman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @cdnrap: I had similar problems ... Totally fixed > by turning on PID control in configuration.h > > You just have to un-comment one line, about 2/3 of > the way down the file.by moltean - General
I still have problems with the hotend. The original one was leaking and I have no tightening it (I was under impression that this problem was solved back in Octomber and I have received my kit in December 5). When I disassembled the hotend I have managed to destroy the thread of the PEEK core ... so I had to create a new one. I did one made of teflon ... see the picture here: the peek coreby moltean - General
thanks, but why is made of 2 parts ? why not a long one ? mihaiby moltean - General
James, I have built my Orca ... and now I have problems when printing ... the extruder jams after 1-2 minutes of printing ... and the hotend is leaking... only now I have seen your youtube videos on how to assemble the hotend. for me is too late because I already have melted plastic leaked ... so I'm in the process of disassembling the hotend. I have one question: why the hotend is made ofby moltean - General
james, could you tell us what kind of tweaks we need in order to make Orca print ? I'm in the process of building mine ... and soon I'll try to print ... thanks, mihai JamesHardiman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am in Gubbels Engineering, right this minute, > getting my O3 printing nicely (and it is, after a > few tweaks that I hadn't known aboutby moltean - General
dear all, Camiel has notified me Friday that my Orca has been sent to UPS. also, I got tracking number from UPS ... a 16 kgs package is on the way to my home ... currently is in transit in Germany ... thank you very much Camiel ! best regards, mihai moltean Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Camiel, > > order placed ! thanks ! > > I like companiby moltean - General
Camiel, order placed ! thanks ! I like companies run by a single person which knows everything about his products. I think that many great products have been created by one-man companies ... I hope that I dont have to call you ... I know that phone calls will interrupt from work, and I dont want to do that. thanks again, mihai camiel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------by moltean - General
Camiel, I can see that Orca v.03 is again for sale on your web-site. Is this true? If I order one now, can I be sure that I get it in one month? thanks, mihaiby moltean - General