Yep you are right Gen7 are usually a little bit "home made" (mine at least it is). Its the one and only I made (I got another one from traumflug). Then the chinese RAMPS got so cheap it didnt make much sense to make and troubleshoot your own. The strange behaviour was going back to normal after unplugging pluggin the usbttl. I dropped the Serial speed to 9600 and it behaved normally for more timby waste - Repetier
Could it be a serial cable problem? I tried to change baudrate to 28800 and the Y axis behaves normally for some time now . It homes and stays there, and also makes 1mm steps.by waste - Repetier
great work for the laser part . I was using M106 M107 the fan control to control the laser as many people here do I think you are right with zeros , I changed the Z axis to 1 for good measure. I actually managed to make X axis behave properly, but Y is giving me much pain it homes alright, but after it homes it moves back to Y max position while the M114 command says something like 18:25:45.by waste - Repetier
Hey Im trying to build a laser printer so obviously I dont need Z axis. I uploaded repetier on gen7 electronics and after some tinkering I have proper XY movements. Ive set the Z axis to zero. there are two problems. When X is homing everything is ok! When Y is homing it makes the home routine ok and then goes to the far end of the board instead of sitting on homing The second strange effecby waste - Repetier
QuoteTraumflug QuotewasteI agree that the peachy printer is really ingenious. [...] not sure how close they are in making a functional SLA printer. A printer being functional is pretty essential, isn't it? Seen in that light their ideas might be not as "ingenious" as they appear to be. Having ideas is no challenge, finding working and better ones is. let me put it that way. from all the ME TOOby waste - General
@rhmorrison that sound a more stable solution. thanks, ill try itby waste - General Mendel Topics
yeap i agree its just another kickstarter with the aim of making money, with all the marketing hype to accompany it, but the interesting question is how do they cure the resin? what kind of screen(matrix) is used and how can you find it. by the volume I would say its custom ordered (else they would accept smaller funding targets) a second interesting question would be, why such a small sizby waste - General
@george4657 thanks you described exactly one of my problems. crossover on the filament Ill try and hold the filament winded as you described. @rhmorrison I have 2 types of filament holder. the one is a 2kg white heavy plastic one from reprapworld. the other is a lighter black 1kg with cardboard in the middle. the 2kg ones are nearly impossible to be moved by the extruder and the X motor. I hby waste - General Mendel Topics
I know its kind of embarassing for someone who has a 3d printer for 3 years now , but while ive gained a lot of experience inthe field all those years, I still have an unsolved problem. how to manage the filament. Most of my failed prints are due to some problem on the fileament holder. the usual one is that the filament gets entagled in the spooler and cannot be pulled the problems are worby waste - General Mendel Topics
acetone from the paint store is much much cheaper than the nail polish remover variety. If you use nail varnish remover be carefull not to buy the acetone free variety which is very common nowadaysby waste - Printing
a small troubleshooting note I noticed to a friend of mine. he was applying lemon too thickly and let it dry , so he was actually creating a very thick film of smooth surface and his parts werent sticking. the funny thing was that his first print after the application of lemon wasnt sticking, but the subsequent ones had no problem (as the first failed layer war roughing up the excess lemon juiby waste - Printing
I have the problem (once in a while) and Im pretty sure the belt and the alu gear are tight enough (I even put used superglue to see if there is any cracking) My skipping steps are always on the X axis and ALWAYS in one direction (It travels one step to the right further than it should) Can it be that the filament drags the head , but if yes why is the problem, one step further to the right (iby waste - Printing
@shawn Im sorry that you behave like this. zungmann asks a very simple question and you come with a whole agenda of what is the best way to print, pissing everybodys elses ways as substandard, non/professional, backyard and a bunch of other terms. Im sorry to break it to you but reprap is a non proffessional backyard hobby, and people use all kinds of ways to make prints stick to bed. I for examby waste - Printing
@jtechphotonics its a shame to ask for forgiveness when you share your interesting thoughts If I have FETs around I prefer them for reverse polarity protection, as they have minimal power loss (only the RDSon which typically is way lower than the Vf of diodes) but for the inrash current protection, you mean something like this?? ceramic cap diode cahode + ------ / \----by waste - Laser Cutter Working Group
ABS has nasty fumes hasnt it? but if we want any material not to catch fire why dont we use a fan blowing where the laser burns? if the air flow is high enough, you will extinguish any fire the problem is that if the air flow is too small you will make any fire worse lol lolby waste - Laser Cutter Working Group
@jtechphotonics couldnt a soft start be achieved with a small cap (say 1μF) before the diode in parallel? I think thats what most datasheets propose. @VDX I had a similar idea for shielding as googles are not always convenient . What kind of shielding material did you use? PC ?by waste - Laser Cutter Working Group
@jtechphotonics birch plywood would be an awesome test. you encourage me to finally finish my laser cutter (based on a 2D mendel90) which is muddling for the last 3-4 months. I wont argue about the needed resolution and accuracy, for some people its essential. But allow me to disagree on the laser drivers. While PT4115 is limited to 1.25A, AMC7135 are designed to work in parallel. So by usingby waste - Laser Cutter Working Group
@RobertKuhlmann I agree that we can source ABS in cheap prices and reasonable quantities, but has anyone found such a supplier yet? The list you posted is big enough and intimidating enough as many of the sites are not really consumer oriented. Its also quite common that the sellers of these companies dont really want to handle retail customers. So it would be helpful if someone has to recomby waste - General
nice driver and even more nicer tests with the balsa. I would believe 1/8balsa can be cut so nicely. but I would consider your driver a little bit overengineered . Lasers are diodes as LEDs. And because of a big interest in LED drivers, you get all kind of nice current limiting sources for quite cheap. for example AMC7135 chip gives 350mA and can be parralled meaning 4 in a row give you 1.4A (yby waste - Laser Cutter Working Group
very nice, so 1/10 sugar/water syrup Paranoid Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Our first attempt was a complete success. 200 ml > of regular water (3/4 of a water glass) with 20g > of sugar (about 3 spoons). Heated bed at 95ºC. > White ABS 3mm filament. We published a little > video on G+: > > s/PKXRReAidDX > > K.R.by waste - Printing
thanks both of you, I have a radial thermistor but im on vacations currently so I have left the fix for when I come back. I will post my results then for the sake of further reference by other peopleby waste - Controllers
even though misplaced, I have printed an A3 size mendel90 for my laser cutter project. all scaled nice even though i never constructed a Z axisby waste - Printing
Thank you Ceflar, Ill check for a short which is a way better fault than a faulty thermistor, its a hell to get to the cables again as they are full of capton tape, but your suggestion to look closely for spikes while printing with auto stop disabled is quite a better way to pinpoint the faulty behavior the short would probably be near the hotend where everything heats up considerably, wontby waste - Controllers
I was succesfully running my printer for more than a year now, but during the last days a strange thing happens once every 2-3 hours. during a print the whole printer shutsdown (motors, electronics, PSU) in the repetier host I get a message, (hotend) thermistor reading error and then I have to reset the board and restart. In the temperature readings of the hotend I get a spike to 520C (which isby waste - Controllers
@SteelPlague different brand have different properties. Even different colors can have different settings in the extruding temperature I havent heard anyone talking about plastic going bad, only about moisture problems. for them some people heat the filament in the oven at about 60-80C for an hour or soby waste - Printing
@waitiki , I had problems of PLA parts not sticking to the bed. specially with small holes on the first layer and big surfaces that needed filling. the small holes had the tendency to never stick, the big surfaces tended to pop and become smeared by the passing head. I was struggling a lot with those problems, and sometimes I had to quit printing big parts with pla. Until I used the lemonjuiby waste - Printing
@leadinglights i firstly used a slice of lemon but I live in germany and its more convenient to just buy ordinary lemon juice in a (usually yellow) plastic bottle, drop it on glass and then spread it with a flat surface until the lemonjuice dries from the heat of the heatbed. as you print parts, lemonjuice will start sticking less. Thats ok with smaller parts, but if you have a bigger one, thenby waste - Printing
I will have to spam you with the wonders of lemonjuice steel plague you can avoid all those micromanagement by using lemonjuice. I had the same problems, some parts were sticking, some bigger ones not, and it was becoming furstrating as i didnt get repeatable results. using lemonjuice is so forgiving that you can lower bed temperature, not having the best leveled bed in the world, and still mby waste - Printing
here are the two parts I just printed Blue ABS. In the first picture you can see the parts beeing printed. In the second picture you can see how hard the parts are stuck on the bed. you can see the glass lifting from the heatbed and still the part doesnt dettach.by waste - Printing
PLA . Big parts, small parts all stick so well that you have problems removing them from the bed when it is still hot. you have to use force and leverage in order not to deform them ABS I have less experience with lemon juice and ABS but until now they stick exeptionally well. Big and long parts have tension problems with abs and the corners tend to unstick a bit but that is caused more by thby waste - Printing