This might help.... Arduino can become sand boxed by your anti-virus / firewall software. Or your board might not have the arduino comparable boot-loader installed. If you "search" the forums, I'm sure all your questions will be answered.by slymike - Firmware - mainstream and related support
You could always put the 1284 chip on, I'm willing to do it for anyone who's interested, only takes 5 minutes with the right soldering kit!by slymike - Controllers
Your pcb and plug wont mate! The pcb header from top to bottom looks like its wired: logic gnd gnd v+ Your cable is wired: v+ gnd logic Maybe you can find a four pin connector from an old PC or something and swap the housings over by lifting the tabs and puling out the crimped wires.by slymike - Sanguino(lolu)
Read through the configuration.h file in the marlin firmware. //=========================================================================== //=============================Thermal Settings ================================ //=========================================================================== // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0) // -1 is thermocouple with AD595 I donby slymike - Sanguino(lolu)
You could flash your board with the 'blink' sketch from the arduino IDE, edit it to use the pins associated with your x axis motor driver and use a logic probe / volt meter / led to check if it goes HIGH and LOW.by slymike - Controllers
Hallestman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i have a 12 > volt 17 amp power supply but it doesn't work. any > suggestions? Does your PSU work? do you get a reading of 12v with a multimeter? do you hear fans (if applicable) when you turn it on?by slymike - Controllers
Any joy?by slymike - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
If your thermistor, like many others is mounted in a hole, right next to your heat source, inside a metal block, its gonna read hotter than a measurement taken on the surface of you nozzle. What happened when you tried to Autotune? did it get any where near the set point? Have you got fans pointing at your hotend? Have you tried to extrude any filament yet with your printer? Either manually byby slymike - Controllers
> Simply used some jumper wires to connect the > Arduino MISO, SCK, RESET, VCC, MOSI, Ground pin to > respective pins on the atmega. > similarly used some jumper wires to connect to the > MISO, SCK, RESET, VCC, MOSI,and 4 Ground Pins from > the atmega to the usbasp ISP header. > > and usbasp to burn the bootloader both of them > failed everytime. > > HELP me wby slymike - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I doubt your gonna get any donations from the reprap community to fund an unfinished project that isn't arduino based. Maybe if you get it working You could find private investment and turn it into a proprietary product and sell units to reimburse your investors.....by slymike - Controllers
I just received a broken Melzi and fixed it up, after replacing all the stepper drivers and adding a new 5v regulator all was good except the X dir pin (which goes directly to the micro) it seems it got burned after my friend connected the power in reverse. So, if you have had any wiring issues, the problem may be similar to the above.... If you are running pre-installed firmware, then the chancby slymike - Controllers
I'm sure that your stepper controllers would not be affected and more than likely will have external pullup / pulldown resistors connected to the enable line or else it would go crackers whilst you upload the firmware. As far as D27 goes, if you can find and remove any code for the led you should be able to use this pin. Its obviously setup as an output at the moment. As far as the reset line gby slymike - Sanguino(lolu)
Do you have a multimeter? It would help if you could test your wiring / psu / controller / arduino etc for faults, then someone will talk you through the process of finding your problem.by slymike - Reprappers
Looks like your half way there. You can use those analog pins as digital pins if u use the digital assignment. I.e. D27 instead of A4. I'm sure you have guessed that already. You can also make use of the pins on the isp header if you need more. As far as adding an emergency stop goes, I don't know if you need that to be on an interupt pin so that it is effective emediatly. When I do mine i'm goby slymike - Sanguino(lolu)
Glad to help. I know they were not "your" settings or you wouldn't need the explanation. I meant "the default" settings. I will hang my head in shame. I'm only messing.by slymike - Firmware - mainstream and related support
dnhkng Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the detailed advice! I was a bit > concerned, as most expansion ports pins marked as > DIO on reprap devices are also used for TX, RX > etc. Also, there are several AIO pins, that I > believe might also be used as digital IO, but I > assume that these must be configured, and I'm not > which filby slymike - Sanguino(lolu)
OK, I had a response from Fibre-lyte and they said this - If we manufacture a sheet with the higher temperature resin we would have to manufacture a full sheet which would be 480 x 680mm and would be around GBP183.50+vat per sheet. You'd more or less get 6 sheets at the size you mention from that so around GBP30+vat per sheet. Delivery cost will depend on where you live and would be calculatedby slymike - General
I haven't got a melzi but your gonna need the PCB schematic, your Atmega Data sheet, sangulino cheet sheet (something with pins vs ports vs Arduino assignment), Notepad++, and your firmware files. Search the schematic for your desired pins, check to see if they are assigned to any functions in relation to your (controller board) section of the pins.h (open with notepad++) setup pins how you needby slymike - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi All, I work as a Development Technician / Rework Technician for an Electronics company and as such have the ability to hand build and repair PCB's. If you have broken your RepRap controller or other PCB (broken off a part, ripped up a track, burned out a chip) then there is a very good chance I can repair your board for you. Through leaded, SMT, even BGA's - it's not a problem. Please me iby slymike - Job Shop: I make stuff!
You have posted your P.I.D settings. They are your 3 variables for correctly heating your hotend or bed. You can 'Autotune' your hot end using gcode to get the 3 values. More info below. http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/87/b0/2c/f5/4c/CheatSheet.pdf http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning http://reprap.org/wiki/Temperature_controlby slymike - Firmware - mainstream and related support
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The bed is the heatsink. As long as the top > surface temperature is sensed and the power is > controlled they shouldn't fry. Yeah, I suppose your right. I forgot for a moment about the temp controller / pid. Lol. Still an expensive way to do it imo. Unless your gonna flip the polarity and print something in chocoby slymike - General
You'll Fry the peltiers without a massive heatsink. They don't like acting as heaters, they are heat pumps.by slymike - General
I'm using picture frame glass covered in blue tape, on an aluminum bed. It works well at 65c however I have to set my bed temp to 80c as the temp sensor only measures the temp at the center of the aluminum bed not the print surface.by slymike - General
I spoke to the guys at Fibre-lyte and this is the responce:- ==================================================================================== Hi Mike, sheet prices as follows: 233 x 233 x 3mm csc - GBP29.45 233 x 233 x 3mm carbon - GBP47.96 Shipping within the UK (first class signed for mail) - GBP6.00 The maximum working temperature for our standard resin is 90 degrees Centigrade, altby slymike - General
So, It looks like this stuff aint to bad after all. Might have to invest in a sheet after payday.by slymike - General
@Ralph, Thats nice to know, what's the max temp you've taken it to??by slymike - General
Ummm.... Maybe it will perform ok at pla temps, who knows? It would be nice to get some feedback off anyone who has purchased the one at the top of the page from reprapsource. I'm hoping that my "heatbed sandwich" if constructed to be sturdy enough might retard any warping, or if the trick is to only anchor it down at one side to allow for expansion. (holes one side, slots on the other).. If aby slymike - General
OK, will do. just about to email them and find out the max operating temperature as it might be good thermal insulation for the nozzle I'm working on too. ( to protect bits of PEEK and PTFE) The company I mentioned is actually called fibre-lyte. There is also a price list for sheet materialsby slymike - General